Ballpark understood: yah, the 8825's are 32microstep, and they're basically double the values my 16step A4988's. When I swapped them out originally I couldn't figure out why everything was only moving half as far... So if you divide my values by 2, you'll get something rough to start with.

 

Gawd. No wonder my extruder was shredding the filament. It was set at 420! That was the default in the sample configuration file. I knew it was way too high.

 

#2 for me.

 

#2 looking great..

 

It may be because of the angle, but in this case, I think I prefer the simple plate. The chamfer clashes with the corners of the base, which may be the most ridiculous sentence I've ever typed.

Now, if you made it a full round edge instead of a chamfer, I might prefer that-- kind of an art-deco look:

 

Put me down for #2. The only reason I don't chamfer something is because I've already filleted it.

 

I am trying to figure out how one comes up with ur steps/axis.
mine r 200,200,800,299,9

for X, Y, & Z ur numbers r 0.13%, 0.27%, % 0.6137% dif from my calculated values based on the part parameters. The extruder value obviously gets more accurate when measured b/c filament isn't as fixed as a gear, belt, or motor.

My eyesight & calipers can't possibly get to that measurement accuracy.

 

Oh, fine, be reasonable, take things like printing quality into account-- see if I care!

I take it you're doing heavy rework just as I'm starting to print my parts from the old set (well-- I'm actually using the parts from adam's triple C-Bot for the most part)?

 

For me personally, no-- I'm completely ignoring his leadscrew parts-- instead I'm using the openbuilds tr8 leadscrew/nut block, a NEMA-17 motor bracket and an F608ZZ flanged bearing. See picture below-- easier than describing it. It has the advantage of being considerably less expensive than the Zen toolworks leadscrews ($20 ea. vs $45 ea).

While gravity will hold it in place, I'm considering a small printed piece to clamp the bearing into the bracket.

Obligatory picture of my mock-up version:



Likewise, I haven't decided if I'm going mechanical switch or hall-effect for the end stops, and may either go with a bare A3144 sensor or the small board (HALL-E) from the RADDS guys, so have no idea what sort of endstop mount I need yet.

 

Yeah, PEI for the build plate is awesome. No need for hairspray, glue stick, PVA water, ABS juice, or anything. It just works, and a little buffing with a clean cloth keeps it in good shape. I got mine from McMaster, $20 for 12x12x.040" (McMaster-Carr). Stick it down with some 3M 486MP tape, 12x12" sheet is available on Amazon but it's in a 6-pack.

I think 3-point mounting for the bed would be a good and easy mod.

Any reason to not move the hot-end mount up? There's an easy 50-100mm (depending on hot end) of Z-axis height to be gained for free.

 

I've been using a product called Buildtak. Is that similar to PEI? I'm really impressed with it. It's made part adhesion one less thing to worry about. Comes in 12x12 sheets.

 

If I recall, Buildtak is a variation of Ultem, which is PEI based.

So they're pretty closely related.

I want to like buildtak, but I've always had problems with too much adhesion... getting the part loose required something approaching divine intervention.

 

Does anyone have a good relatively quiet alternative for the 30mm fan on the E3D v6?

 

I think my Z endstop is probably worth examining. adding a small platform to the carriages, and using those mini switches reduces the printed parts down to 1 and makes adjusting a breeze.

 

I have my version of a triple-C bot complete (with some minor issues).. But one larger problem i'm having is extruder trouble.

I have a fairly long bowden tube, maybe 400-500mm. I'm using the extruder from thingiverse mentioned in the build tab here (Direct Drive Bowden Extruder; MK8 version by cfeniak)

i have a universal 1.75mm e3d v6
my mk8 will sometimes strip out the filament.. i hear it skip steps from time to time as well.


I tried using some ABS (can't remember brand) that ended up gouging the filament enough that the teeth could no longer bite..
do you think this is a problem with my length of bowden tube? i've printed the direct drive extruder plate from earlier in this thread.. going to try that tonight.

 

Your setup is similar to mine, I have the E3D V6 with the same bowden mount but I have 800mm of bowden tube and print fine.
Make sure your hot end is up to temp all the way and make sure your filament is tight in between the mk8 and the extruder bearing.

 

what speeds are you printing at?
i wonder if i'm going too fast... i have a printrbot simple metal and am printing at what seems to be roughly the same speed

 

Nothing too fast, less than 100mm/s but you should be able to feed filament fast enough at that speed as long as your hot end is the right temp.
Can you adjust the tension of the extruder bearing flange like the one shown on the extruder page?

 

i think that's faster than me.. i think i'm printing at 3000mm/min or slower in my slicer (simplify3d) (side note: it's annoying that the 3d printing community hasn't standardized on speed units yet)

i'm using a smoothieboard.. i haven't really looked at the speed limits in firmware, so i'm not sure what actual speed it's printing at.

i used to use a sprint/bolt/nut like the one shown on the extruder page.. after compressing the spring to the max i ditched the spring and just tightened the bolt directly. I got it so tight that the extruder motor would skip and then loosened it until it stopped skipping


I have this problem on hatchbox pla at 205.. it's worse with abs (forgot brand) at 230-240

 

I would think that if you had to ditch the spring and deviate from the design so much you may want to look at the part.

I see two potential places for error
-designed to be drilled out for 1.75 or 3mm filament
-designed to be drilled out for a 5mm or 1/8 coupling
Is is possible your holes are not concentric?

If you can still print, try B'Struder: Universal Bowden 1.75mm Extruder by tempo502 , I like the lever for filament path feature.

 

I've got a 600mm bowden (on a delta)-- shouldn't be an issue. I'd check the feed rate / accel values for the extruder.

I'll second the vote for the B'struder, but it's not going to solve your problem-- It's just easier to load/unload filament (I prefer "squeeze-to-load" extruder designs).

 

I'm still hung up on the "had to take the spring out".

 

The extruder design you started with should work fine. I haven't had any problems with it and Carl has had it working even longer.
Are you extruding at all? If you cant get any filament to come out the filament might be stuck on a ledge where the bowden tube meets the heatbreak. Make sure the bowden tube is fully seated into the hot end.
If you are occasionally digging into the filament and it is not extruding it seems like you are not staying hot enough to keep the filament liquid.
The extruder bearing just needs to be reasonably tight against the filament.
Can you verify proper hot end temperature with a temperature graph over time?