I think the Raps128 and the SD6128 are basically rhe same drivers from what I read but don't hold me to that. Just getting started. I was looking at 1/32 or 1/64 myself but I think 1/32 is just fine.

 

Right now I'm testing at 90mm\sec just fine, which is already way faster than I could do in Marlin. I'm still tuning stuff in the firmware & stepper driver voltage (had to up the extruder to .70v from .55, or it did some skipping at that speed). Once I get all that sorted I'll try to push it higher. Since my Replicator1 does 120mm\sec just fine, that's my goal

 

They are, but you have to set some sort of 'invert' option on Repteier when using the RAPS128's for some reason.

 

Ues I read that in the RADDS user guide. "CAUTION: Inverted activation signal Enable = HIGH (at Pololu drivers enable = LOW, invert in firmware!)"
guess they are set up reverse of soe other drivers

 

thanks carl!, ill add onto that!
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^^^^^
and to my surprise, these werent the typical fiberglass strand filled GT2 that i was used to, these are STEEL belted, so they are extremely stiff and dont stretch nearly as much as i was used to. a really pleasant surprise if i do say so myself.

same thing goes that Carl said, try and buy what you need from the openbuilds store whenever possible, the quality is controlled and is extremely good. whereas with these chinese sellers, quality may be good, but there is no way to guarantee that, let alone guarantee that youre even getting the product you ordered. so buy with a cautious head

 

I'm going to use the same cable management setup you have. May I ask where you got the model for the cable chain and the various pieces for it from?

 

The cable chain links I got from Thingiverse (printrbot open cable chain. by eddiema). The project was for the printrbot, but I have used the links and modified mounts for other uses. I have modified the anchors for each application and designed the other mounts.

The snap-on covers are ones I designed from another one I found (think it was Thingiverse but not sure). I modified it to be taller and added some ribs to allow it to be printed on its top instead of the side like the original one was.

I can share the files if you are interested.

 

I printed out the reworked Z side brackets and got them installed this weekend. There is a world of difference in the stability of the bed compared to before. While I can still deflect the ends of the arms, it takes a lot more effort and I can't move it as much as before.

I ordered some brass nuts for the lead screws and those should be here tomorrow. I have the mounts printed and hopefully will get that installed and working soon.

 

Got the spring pack and found the stiffest spring in there. It seems to be feeding better now, but then it started feeding correctly when I replaced the original spring. I have not had the greatest luck with this extruder. Once I get the bed upgrade finished, I will be able to test out the extruder some more.

 

That would be great, thanks!

 

Okay. I think this is all of them. Let me know if I missed anything.

 

For anyone interested, I got my "switching to Repetier / RADDS" blog post up:
http://www.akeric.com/blog/?p=3704
Still doing a lot of Simplify3D profile configuring, but it's been chugging away just fine.

 

Awesome, thanks! Printing them out now.

 

Oh. Probably should have mentioned this earlier. I have printed the links in both PLA and PET-G. Personally, I like the PET-G ones better. They have more flexibility and make the links easier to connect together. The PLA ones were really stiff and hard to link.

 

Thanks! Yes, Repetier has been a breath of fresh air compared to Marlin. I mean, they actually have a dedicated forum...
I did not draw that, the original is here:
http://doku.radds.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/RADDS_Wiring.png
I link to it above the image in my blog (via the text above the pic), but I made a copy for my blog for safe keeping. One of the reasons I like the RADDS board so much is that there's so much good clear info for it available.

My only real issue right now is delamination when the PLA filament cooling fan kicks on: It's something I've never experienced before... Cooling fan kicks on, and filament does not want to stick... at all. Even at very low fan speeds. Completely perplexing since with my rep1, I can have the fan just blasting right at the nozzle. Of course the fan on my cbot is 24cfm (vs the 5cmf on the rep1), but I've moved the fan 2.5" back from the nozzle and removed all ducting,,... even at 10% delamination happens.
But, this all new electronics & firmware, with a .4mm nozzle that I've yet to use on the bot, so some learning is expected. With the fan off it's been printing great, just having a hard time (as expected) with non-cooled overhang using PLA.

 

Hey all, I have been hovering around here for a while. I am about to start my build and am super excited. Carl / everyone I cannot tell you how much I appreciate the work you have put in, you guys are all awesome. I just have a few questions.

1) Have we considered creating a real forum or Facebook group for this thing. This 63 pages of stuff is getting more than cumbersome to search through. Having a dedicated forum would make it a lot easier to have threads like "Flex3Drive + C Bot", which is something I have ordered and plan on experimenting with.

2) I am also going to be playing with FSR end stops, BLTouch, and probably lasers. Has anyone else done anything with this stuff yet? Any advice?

3) I have a TEVO Tarantula that I have managed to modify enough to be able print Nylon pretty darned well. Has anyone tried printing any of the brackets / parts for this printer in Nylon? I am using Taulman 910 Alloy and I am curious if others have tried that or think it is worth it.

Thanks!

-Matt


P.S.
I am more than happy to setup/run/pay for a dedicated forum for people interested in this printer if everyone thinks that is a good idea, but I am new here and I don't want to pre-empt anyone or step on any toes.

 

I'd favor a google group, personally, but I don't know how popular that is.

 

I think a google group could be great, just about anything but one long thread with 200+ topics would be really.

 

I'd +1 a Google Group.
You're a victim of your own success @Carl Feniak

 

I see what you did there

 

in the re-work STL files I only see one XY motor mount, and it says to only print one of them....what am I missing?

 

I have never been a big fan of Google Groups. I have been on some forum software that allows you to filter messages to ones with pictures and file attachments. That would help, but not sure where you can find a forum host with it.

 

I can use the 123D files that is no problem,, I should have looked there LOL.

 

I was thinking of something like this: NodeBB Forum Software | Drive user engagement with a modern community platform. I can use the developer edition and host it on Heroku for cheap to free.

 

+1 github - For community updatable files, BOM, CAD, Documentation, wiki, issue tracking. Only thing it really lacks is a forum. I like openbuilds, but agree this project has probably out grown it.
+1 google groups - for the forum

EDIT: I just did one thing that bugs me about google groups, I can edit this post.

 

You can edit your post in my google group. I am the manager of the CTC 3D Printers group. I think that github and google groups are both good destinations, possibly both.