C-Beam™ Gantry Plate - Double Wide
Any major benefit you think we would see using this on the Z vs the standard plate?

 

Once I get fully up and running will prob do it. Also put a second router mount so there are two holding the router.

 

Hey, I just read this entire discussion, and I wanted to get maybe get some direction. I'm really torn between a couple different designs on this site, and I would really appreciate some direction.

I engrave industrial warning labels, out of titanium, they are usually around 2x4x.125 inches. Right now I use a taig cnc mill, my usual set up is a 1/16th carbide ball endmill a .004 to .01 DOC and about 20-30 IPM. Some of my lettering is 1/8th inch high, so resolution is very important to me. It's slow work! I can usually mount 4 plates to my mill, but I need to ramp up production. I was considering buying a new TAIG, but I think a CNC router of some sort will be way better. Currently I use the stock Taig motor, which is about 1/3 HP. I want to use either a dewalt router or an 800 or 2300 watt water cooled spindle. I hope to use higher speeds in conjunction with cutting fluid to get higher IPM. 100-120 IPM would be epic.

Right now I'm torn between the plate maker set up, and an OX CNC The OX is way bigger of course, so I can do more work at once. But I'm concerned the OX won't have the resolution I want, even if I do micro stepping.

I was thinking about using the plate maker, since it's much higher resolution because it's a lead screw machine. I was thinking about making it a bit bigger than the stock machine, and using two C beams on the Y axis. Ideally my work space would be around 30x24 inches or workable area. I would probably use 4 gantry plates to give it more support since that's so big. I have seem people do that, and it looks nice, I have also seen people use linear rails and a balls screws. I would probably up grate to that, but I don't have a way to cut the plates yet, so buying this machine, I could make the plates I would need for that. I also like that the X and Z axis on the plate maker are fixed, so I can make the side supports as massive as I want. I could probably make some ½ inch thick aluminum side plates. I can also make some of the other plates a lot more substantial also.

I have also considered the ROVO cnc machine. I can buy the side plates on ebay, and since it's a lead screw machine, I would get the same resolution as the plate maker. I'm just nervous about it, since I haven't seen too many people do the same set-up.


Does anyone have any opinions?

Thank you so much for any input!

 

I looked through that. It's pretty interesting, One of the things I am most concerned about is the table of the OX sagging in the middle. The build you reference, they seemed to have really beefed up the base of the OX. I'm really hoping to have my work area be as flat as possible. really .0003 over the whole surface would be ideal.

 

I bought the C-Beam Machine so I could use it as a way to upgrade other projects and build new ones. Also the cost of getting up and running was much lower than the OX. Besides that wanted something more compact. Long term goal will be to build a larger router if space allows. Pretty sure you could have two C-Beam machines up and running for close to the cost of one OX. Then you run a staggered production and control you tolerance better since it is a smaller machine.

 

Hi again guys. I received all of my parts today. They look complete, lack of a complete inventory yet. One thing I noticed was lack of wiring of any kind to tie it all together. Was there something I missed or are you all just outsourcing wires and if so, what are you using? Thanks!

 

Got my kit on Friday, but no time to work on it

Wiring is left up to you. In the instructional videos, Mark showed some of the basics, but some of it is really dependant on what hardware you are using. For the cables for the steppers, I used a 4 conductor 22awg shielded cable. The shielded cable will help reduce any possibilities of missed steps due to outside interference, and will also prevent false triggers of the limit switches. A thing to note with shielded cables is that you only ground one end of the cable (at the controller end is fine). Grounding both ends creates ground loops that you don't want.

Connecting the cables to the steppers is also up to you. You can solder directly to the wire ends, or connect through terminal strips or connectors. Adding the terminal strips or connectors is great for servicing, but adds an additional point of failure. Personally, I will be soldering.

 

C-Beam CNC by Brandon Raineri posted Apr 11, 2016 at 7:45 PM

Just ordered my kit today!

Designed in SolidWorks and will be using HSM Express for G-Code generation. I plan on using 3/4" MDF for the spoil board and milling some t-slots into the top for clamping. I also plan on making some plate gussets to cover the extrusion ends and stiffen up the X-Axis.

Is there a drawing anywhere for the belt reduction mount plate?

 

So Im attempting to set up grbl interface and it will not retain my settings as instructed in the video. Anyone else have this issue or know why it wont keep the settings? I plug in a setting click out of the interface and it reverts back to what was originally there

 

When you change the settings in GRBL panel you have to double click them one at a time. Can't change a bunch and then change have to do them one at a time and double click on it.

 

Thanks Got it!

 

Success~! I have x,y,z now all hooked up and operable. Since I doubled the platform in size, I mistakenly assumed to Double the Gantry work plate. Mistake one. I will need to remove it and cut it down because Zero would only be about 11 inches fomr the rear of the work surface. Good thing its not difficult.

 

ok well I cut down my work area to the 12"x12" as the video stated. I can use that for a larger template if needed (and Im sure I will at some point).

I have spacers now, per the build, but theyre not tall enough to pass the stepper on the Y. That has crossed my mind (adding taller spacers).

Im a novice of course, but what I think you heard on the steppers is when the Z bottomed out. and the Y did on the back end. I have reset to zero and those limits are clear now by about 1/4 inch in front of both travel limits.

I did a coupld of cuts today the wrench and Hello World. Worked out fine. Now for a little more time on software and looking for work.

I was speaking to Tracy about a fourth axis and that would be great at some point, but Ill work with this learning curve first

 

I am approximately 1/16 off on my x and y measurements, I looked at the calibration links and I dont see a clear way to claibrate the machine. If anyone would be so kind as to post a clearer path to calibration, I would be most grateful.

 

Can you post your grbl settings?

 

I will have to get to the machine. I use laptop for the machine as well as personal use at the moment, and unplug to bring it in the house

 

Are you measuring cuts or just movements? If your steps per mm are off your error would get worse over longer distances. If you are seeing this on cuts you are prob cutting too heavy and or not using conventional cutting. If you are running climb cutting it will produce more deflection.

 

I am using grbl panel out of the box so to speak. I have made no adjustments. I loaded a 2"x2" square sample and both internal cuts are short by the 1`/16th of an inch. As far as cutting too heavy, I was cutting 1/8 ply probably birch. Tried same cut on foam, same problem.

Ill run some more tests.

 

Have if you are using the stock steppers than your 200 steps per mm are correct. Have you measured your bit?

 

Bit is 1/4 inch.

 

I am having to make some assumptions,

• 200 steps per mm, I assume you have no micro stepping on the stepper drivers -OOOps I make it 8 microsteps.
• what ever generated the G-Code was told the bit size, and the correct bit was in the spindle

so if you cutting a 2" square the bit will actually move 2" + the bit size, if the G-Code is hand generated, did you add this extra bit size?

Remember the x/y position is the dead centre of the bit and not the edge.

Not sure if I am making myself clear enough.

Michael

 

Measure the width of the cut.
If it is off, you can adjust the actual bit width.
It could be off because the bit is wider than advertised and/or the router collet has runout.
Some of mine are off, but none are off by 1/16". It's just something to check.

 

understood, thanks guys will check these parameters ere in a second.

 

and maybe mark the starting position on the X C-Beam then move 2" and mark it again, measure the movement, is it off by 1/16? are any of the leadscrew lock collars moving if you try and move the spindle left/right.

if you move 2" in one direction and then 2" back, does it end up in the same location or is it off? possibly backlash somewhere.

Michael

 

ok considering what you have stated, I measured the 2" square again, and it is off 1/16th internally on both x and y, assuming that was stated, it should theoretically be 1/16th too large not too small. This is not the case. In any event Im stioll looking at it.