Openbuilds belt is 5mm so it will drop down into the gap of the Vslot rail. Most other sellers have 6mm but this will catch and wear over time.

Thanks[/QUOTE]

I use a mix of cutters, mostly single flute up cut 1/8 in cutters but if it is a critical job where I need the best finish I will use Vortex or Onsrud brand cutters that are more expensive but do give a better cut than cheap ones.

Up cut works well to clear the chip from the cut site but will lift the work as well as have a risk to blow out the top of the material. Down cuts are handy where you need the best cut on the surface of the board or are trying to push small parts down onto the work surface but remember to use a fresh spoil board each cut as any previously cut gaps in the spoil board can show up as a edge blow out on the underside of the cut.

I also use compression cutters that have a mix of both up and down cut in the same tool that is amazing for cutting panels as it gives crisp results on both sides and has a little less lift than a pure up cut bit. The good performance also usually comes with a hefty price tag....

If you do use cheap tooling then one way to get the best results is to rough out the part leaving a little skin on both the part walls and floor the entire job then swap to a fresh bit and take a last full depth pass that steps down and in. This allows the fresh tool to take a light pass but also has the added benefit of allowing the tool to only be cutting the step in depth rather than slot cutting (very hard on cutters).

Buying tooling that comes with rated chipload (relationship between cutting feed speed, number of cutting flutes and the spindle RMP) helps give you a good starting point as you can kill a tool just as fast as running it with the wrong speeds (feeding it too slow or having too high RPM) as the cutting bit rubs more than takes a clean slice. Once the tool over heats the cutting edge is soften and dulls very quickly. If I need to slow a cut down I always try and pull my spindle RMP down in the same % as maintaining the correct chipload will always give the best results no matter the tool!

Cheap tooling is good for roughing or while your getting use to running the machine as in my early CNC programming days I made a few mistakes that resulted in snapped tools. Once your confident with your rig I do recommend trying some good tooling as it can make a huge difference that often overall to me works out to be worth the extra cost in the tooling as it can often mean less cleanup and work after cutting.

 

I'm looking for a little help/advice regarding spindle choice for the OX CNC...

I'm open to suggestions, but based on my research and what I plan to use it for I've pretty much decided that I want to use an 800W spindle. However, I'm having issues finding information on the mounting of the spindle to the OX. Is there someone who sells a "kit" of sorts that would include everything you need (spindle, PWM controller, mounting brackets, cables, etc.) I'm going to be running it using MACH3 so the controller needs to be compatible.

Thanks for your help.
- John

 

Anyone can suggest me between a quiet cut spindle and a dewalt? I'm at the very beginning, if someone suggest me the dewalt I want also know where I can found a very affordable mount or if I can built one thanks

 

Why didn't you use belt driven design for z axis as well?

 

I have just made the Y-Plate, in a company in my town that has the laser cutting, i have choose the Steel material, because they have only that material, one Y-Plate of 6mm of steel has a weight of 1,6Kg, you think is too much? i have make a mistake?

 

I don't think it will be problematic, specially with the double Y axis drive.

 

Hello,

I'm new here and interested on this on this cnc mill. But i can't find a "Bindfadentest" for this mill. Sorry I don't know how to call this in english. Here is a Video where you can see what I mean.



Can someone please do this test with his OX CNC? I would like to see this test with the Z- axis down to the table and X/Y in the middle. The force to pull should be 20 and 50 N (2/5kg). An luggage scale is suitable for this.

I would be very happy if someone can do this Test.

Alexander

 

Without running the video I would bet this is probably a runout test? Get a gun trigger pull gauge and you can pick up an inexpensive dial indicator at Grizzly. All you are doing is seeing how far the bit/chuck is going to move, if any, when lateral pressure is applied to it. Obviously the least amount is the preferable.

 

is there a parts list for this somewhere? I like the c-beam design.

 

For a mistake i have bought the Dual Extreme Wheel instead of the Solid Extreme Wheel, you think is the same?

 

Ok thanks

 

anyone have a good 3d printed files for clamps to block pieces on the spoiler board?

 

No one that can make this test?

 

@Piero87 perhaps these clamps would work for you...found under Resources section thanks to our friend @Kyo ...

C-Beam Machine Hold Down Clamps

 

Hi, I'm struggling with slipping pulleys on a 1000 x 1500mm Ox. I've now ended up replacing all set screws with cut down 3mm hex bolts. On an engraving test my circles nearly meet up with about 1mm gap in the long axis. I'm going crazy trying to get this machine going. It's had one beautiful day where it worked perfectly and has been a nightmare since. I've already reinforced the cross axis. Could it just be that I've got too much weight with a 1.5Kw spindle? It doesn't look like it's flex causing the issue.

I'm about to either a) file down a second flat on the motor shafts or b) give up and put bigger GT2 pulleys, using M4 bolts instead of M3.

Surely this can't be this hard.

 

Thanks. It's so frustrating to be nearly there. I'm hoping the bigger screws I've put in place will hold on for now.

 

Did you try to add Locktite to your screws?

 

Dang!!!!
I was trying to cut steel (I need a t-nut for my lathe) on my c-beam and it stopped not even 1 minute into the cut!!!!
Was cutting good, maybe a little fast, I had it set for 10" per minute and .03" depth per pass. 1/4" 4 flute carbide bit, I will change this when I get it going again...
My power supply crapped out!!!! 24v 10 amp....
always something!!!
Got a new power supply on order already.
going to dial the speed down a little, somewhere around 7 or 8 and I think it will be happy...

So big question,
Have any of you cut steel with your machine?

I hope I have time to get this done this week, I'm heading to the cabin for a while, so it won't be till I get back if I don't get it done this week!!!
Side note
No internet at the cabin!!! got to run to town and sit at McDonalds for internet.....
everyone keep those spammers out while I'm gone!!!
Bob

 

What RPM are you running? It should be about 3,000

7-8 IPM should work better, and try .02 depth of cut. Is it a slot cut or edge cut? You have to go about 30% slower if it is a slot cut.

Chris

 

Thanks Chris.
it's the bosch colt router so the slowest it will go is 16,000.
it was a slot cut.
sounds like I wasn't too far off...
That power supply just picked the wrong time to give out.
I left the piece on the router, going to just restart the g-code when I get the new supply, after I rewrite the g-code to slow it down a bit.

This is just a t-nut for a tool post on a lathe so it doesn't have to be super precise.
Bob

 

Hey guys need a lil help. Seems everything i try to cut with my new ox is mirrored... Basic shapes I can deal with but engraving letters doesn't really work backwards. Haha. I've tried inverting both x and y axis but it still cuts in reverse. And yes the layout in sketchup is correct orientation.

 

Yea I'm sure it's something simple I've overlooked. And it starts in the proper place.. With the first letter.. Just does everything in mirror. I'm using sketchup with sketchucam and everything seems fine there. Doesnt matter whether I check the overhead gantry or not does the same thing.... Which brings up another issue... I cannot seem to change the cut direction no matter Wat settings in sketchucam I change.

 

Hmm ok I have run a couple cuts with other parts but it was stuff that didn't really matter if it was mirrored

 

when standing in front of the machine and you jog it to the right does it go in the positive direction?
when you jog it away from you does it move in the positive direction?
when you jog the router towards the table does it go in the negative direction?
let's start there?
if all those are true then post some sample g-code which has the problem.
Bob