Keith Davis published a new build:

Read more about this build...

 

Thanks Subramaniam S S

Top bearing size: 696zz
Z axis threaded rod: M6x1
Z axis pulley size: 6mmID x 20tooth on the M6 rods (6mm ID are hard to find, the BOM has a link to Robotdigg) but you can chuck a 5mmID pulley in a vise and drill it out to 6mm. I did that for the prototype and it's still printing...
The arrangement is:
1) M6 Acorn nut
2) 6mm washer
3) 696zz bearing
4) Z-bearing-bracket
5) 696zz bearing
6) 6mm washer
7) 6mm ID x 20 tooth pulley




The Z-nut bracket has been changed in the SKP and STL zips. A M6 nylon nut (found in the BOM) is press fit into the bracket. A 3mm hole in the bracket is threaded for 3mm and a M3x8mm screw presses into the nylon nut to hold it in the nut recess.



The z-bearing-brackets_z-nuts.skp & z-bearing-brackets_z-nuts.stl contain the bracket in the lower drawing.

The pulley pushes up and holds the bearings tightly in the bracket, preventing the M6 screw from moving up or down. To align the left and right of the X axis, loosen 1 pulley and adjust the screws until X is level with the bed, then tighten the pulley.

The misc-parts.skp contains a bracket that a standard dial indicator can be mounted to and the bracket fits into the slot on the extruder that holds the part cooling fan. Using a dial indicator for syncing the screws, then again for micro-adjusting the 4 adjusting screws on the build plate is accurate enough that I usually then just adjust the extruder height in the center of the build and print the first print with no further adjustments.

 

The zip files have been updated. I also added to assembly.skp the two idler bearings for the Z axis belt.

The first extruder link you have is to a bowden type, the second one to a direct type. You need the direct type. 3d printer Hotend E3D v5 + Fan | 0.4mm nozzle, 1.75mm filament for Extruder

Here's a cutaway of what I use. The 1.75mm direct fin body has a 2mm hole. I drill that out to 4mm and fit a 4mmOD x 2mmID PTFE down to the barrel. At the top the PTFE is trimmed to fit snuggly against the drive gear and idler bearing. The PTFE is held in plasce by two set screws aligned parallel with the tube to keep it from raising during retraction. Heat from the barrel is dissipated enough before rising to the PTFE to allow 400C printing. The PTFE liner aids in printing PLA and Flex type filament. In fact, I replace the metal barrel with a PTFE (3mmODx2mmID) lined barrel for ABS, PLA, and Flex. PTFE lined barrels are sold separately for the sabove extruder.

Extruder wise: We are not using E3D V6, but instead what is usually called a J-Head E3d V6. The difference is that the E3D barrels have 7mm threads and the J-Head clone has 6mm thread.



You probably can use 2 40x20s if that's what you have. Don't consider how to bolt them together. In the OneZ-i3-assembly.skp you'll notice two 100x40 feet under the printer. The front hole is for a screw into the upright frame rail's center hole, the other two are for screw and slide nuts in the frame slots. Add two more holes so the foot is a bridge for your two 40x20s. Then, the 40x20 Y axis rail bolts to that frame using an OB L bracket on the front and a printed bracket in y-ends-idler.skp. Be sure to press the Y rail tight against your frame when tightening those two brackets. That should be adequate. But if you want, thread all of the centers on your two 40x20s and add holes to the psu-lid and the y-lid to screw those lids to the 40x20s.

 

I'm shipping a partial kit to someone over the weekend so he'll be starting next week too. We plan on running Q&A here for that build also.

 

BTW, I see no reason why you can not extend to 1000mm. Here is a photo of a custom build I did for a 300x300 heatbed. Once running we didn't like the bowden dribble so I reworked it so the wiring all had plug-in connectors and Steve can convert to single direct drive by unplugging the wires - unplugging the bowden tubes - removing two screws / screw on the direct drive bracket - plud-in the wires. Takes him about 20 minutes to make the conversion. So, if you want to use a bowden setup, let me know, I have the SKP files for using a Chimera hotend.



Also, my license prohibits anyone from building and selling OneZ on the open market. But that applies only to USA. If you should want to build and sell in India or anywhere in Asia, I would be happy to support that enterprise.

I have also added the Marlin Sketch for the OneZi3 on Sainsmart 2in1. It's HERE

 

http://3dwrx.com/openbuilds/i3/i300-assembly-parts.zip
The assembly is for a 300x300mm bed. Note that the Y axiz is longer and has a idler bracket at the rear like the one on the front. The parts skp contains just the parts unique to Chimera dual extrusion.

Shot hastily just for you - I'll be making other vids next week for sales purposes....

If you are referring to printed parts, I would, but I'm sure you can find someone local a lot cheaper and probably with shorter delivery.

 

I have 4 in Peek Green mostly because the details show up really great in photos. I'm converting those two i2s to i3s in black (which do NOT display details well in photos). I plan to offer both for sale w/next day shipping. But for other colors I'd have to offer "custom" builds with a two weeks delay. Probably send them to PLA | ArchShield and let them fall in love with their choice. It's pretty good filament, wide color choice, in 1.75mm only, and consistent availability. Solutech's Apple Green was my real choice but they had availability problems until recently.

Once you get to printing parts like the U joint be sure to post pics here, OK? That's a unique and elegant looking part.

 

Steve is correct, the Z belt for the i300 is the 860-2GT-6
http://www.amazon.com/2GT-Belt-Timing-Closed-Loop/dp/B018JEWBSC/

 

I have Assembly Instruction pages at ASSEMBLY It is for construction from scratch. An Assembly Instruction for a KIT will follow. This one is about half finished.

 

That's a work in progress TechGirl. I'm on section 11 now. I just updated a few minutes ago.

After I finish, probably tomorrow, I plan to go back through looking for inconsistencies, etc. I sold a kit to someone so I'm trying to keep ahead of him and using his feedback to tweak with.

 

@TechGirl I have one page left to do on the Assembly Instructions today (extruder wiring).

I've changed to using only 200 step motors instead of two 400s for X & Y. The Sainsmart 2in1 can run 1/32 and a 200 @ 1/32 is smoother than a 400 @ 1/16 (and a 400 @ 1/32 has crazy Jerk problems and the equivalent of 200 @ 1/64 microsteps is overkill on a printer).

Are you contemplating a dual/bowden or single/direct extruder?
Have you purchased any motors yet?

A word of caution on buying i300 parts - the build plate needs to be 13" x 13" because that is the size of the heat bed for a 12" build area. On Steve's I mistakenly ordered a 12" and had to extend the corners.

 

Yes m'lady, I can see you've been contemplating this for some time . I'm guessing you'll have other modifications along the way too....

There is a widely held misconception that the drivers determine microsteps. They do not. The A4988 is capable of only full, 1/8 & 1/16 microstepping, while the DRV8825 is capable of full, 1/8, 1/16 & 1/32. The number of jumpers determine which microstepping the driver will use (RAMPS does not have the fourth 1/32 jumper and using a DRV8825 will not give RAMPS 1/32 microstepping - regardless of what the intertubes might tell ya).

You certainly can use DRV8825 for all 4 motors. Doing so would not change the jumper set-up. I mixed driver in the ASSEMBLY only so if someone had A4988s they would see they are not appropriate for all motors and to emphasis the directions of the potentiometer screws.

 

The Build Tab has been updated with links to firmware for
Marlin_2in1_onezi3.2.zip (200 step motors)
Marlin_2in1_onezi3.4.zip (400 step motors for X & Y axis)
Marlin_2in1_dual.zip (dual extruder, 200 step motors)