This router uses a 15mm wide htd5 belt system on all axes. The larger belts should keep belt stretch to a minimum.
Great looking build @mike125 Looks like you have incorporated some good ideas into this project. Looking forward to your test runs. Wish you luck on the campaign.
Please let us know which funding platform you are using to fund the project. I would like to support such a project. Good luck!
I haven't decided yet. It will probably be either Kickstarter or Indiegogo. When the time comes, I will let everyone know about it. I want as many people as possible to be involved so that the project will be a success.
It definitely should run with a good dust collection system. I figure it will run better open, but yes significant buildup could lead to tolerance errors. Still debating on whether or not to double up the gantry beam and just beef it up in general. I have high hopes of this router to be able to run a somewhat powerful spindle.
Hi, i quite like that design, 15mm belts sounds like a good idea. One thing i do not understand ( from looking at the pics) is how you actuate the z-axis? Well i can see how it is lifted but which force appart from gravity lowers the spindle? Could you please explain and perhaps show a more detailed pic of your z- arangement? greets flo
It works the same way as the x and y axis. The only difference with the z is that the motor is fixed in the z direction and the z beam moves up and down. The x and y is opposite in that the motor moves in there respective axes and the endpoints are motionless. I did a bit of head-scratching myself while working the concept out, but I know it works, because my 1st router build uses the same setup. It is probably one of the few good things about my 1st router. Lol. I had a request for some close ups on the z axis. Here is a link to that conversation. http://www.openbuilds.com/conversations/cheetah-33254-cnc-router.99/
I plan to make changes to the y rail on the gantry. I foresee a lot of flexing with just the single 20X80 v slot beam. I will probably do a solid aluminum beam with openrail at the top and bottom of it instead of the v slot. I have put this project on hold temporarily because I am working on a skate bearing design that will be more affordable to build. I plan to pick this one up after I finish the one I am working on now.
Thanks mike, but unfortunately your link goes to nowhere... Anyway i am still wondering if there is no need to gear the beltdrives? The resolution suffers a lot i guess? If so would it help to use motors of the 400step per revolution would help?
The system uses 12 tooth pulleys. I use stepper drivers capable of micro-stepping, and resolution isn't a problem at all. If there is any loss, then it is to mechanical advantage, but this setup works just fine with 270 oz-in motors on a similar machine that I have that is 24" X48"X5". Sorry about the link, I have found those pics, and I will repost them here.
Sorry again for not getting the pictures up. I didn't realize that I had push the reply button after posting pictures.
Hi, i am still wondering if gearing through another belt would be wise? 280oz/inch steppers on Z seems like quite overkill to me. Most machines i have seen use one sice down on z, compared what is used on x and y. Ie. Nema 23 and 17 on z or nema 34 and 23 on z. How does your machine handle a nema 34 on z? Eventhough i use microstepping myself i am not sure if it is wise to rely on electronics allone to achive precision. Than on the other hand i have seen a vid of momos designs cnc on yourtube (which is beltdriven without reduction(it seems)) cutting aluminium just fine.. Just not sure if i should design my next cnc for reduction (peace of mind - but more hazzle) or for the beauty of simplicity using direct drive Belt ond Belt rack and pinion... greets flo
In my experience with the one machine I have built, the microstepping has been completely reliable. I haven't had any missed steps. The current setup has plenty of torque to cut wood. I haven't cut any aluminum yet. I haven't seen any need to have a gear reduction. If I find that I need more torque to cut harder materials such as aluminum or phenolics, then I will use a higher torque motor like a 425 oz in. I like the speed capabilities of the direct drive system.
If you want to make the Z-axis extrusion wider, you could also use an extra 20x40 and put the belt in the middle. This way the force pulling the router up is centered. Also, when you the Z axis motor loses power, the router drops down i guess? be carefull with that or you'll ruin your bits
as i said before i really like your design but have reservation about dust and debris on belts, seeing how much dust is generated even with a good collection system? i am wondering how difficult it would be to modify your design a bit and have your y axis (front to back) operate under the table. that would help a lot with the issue? rich
Yes, the z will drop when the controllers are turned off. I used a very similar belt system on the first router that I built. I usually just put a block of wood under the spindle before I shut off the controller. 2 beams on the z would be wider and would decrease the travel on the gantry axis. Dust does get on the belts, but it didn't seem to cause any problems on my first router. I'm sure that the smaller belts in the v groove collect dust too. As for running the belts under the table, my first router had a single belt down the center under the table and it collected dust as well. I didn't have a dust collector on that router. I'm not sure if the dust caused any significant accuracy issues, because my first router had a lot of slop in the linear slides, so it was only accurate to + or - 0.03 in. I plan to report the accuracy of this machine once I get it built. My guess would be that dust on this larger pitch belt would be less significant than dust on a finer toothed belt.
that make sense. perhaps some very small brushes that clean off the dust as the belt moves would do the trick. basically self-cleaning? would be a very simple addition! r