Fair enough. Is this with the NinjaFlex? I've never used that, but retract-on-wipe was a godsend for my kossel when printing PETG.

 

Interesting.. My X,Y (0,0) is at the rear left of the build plate. I felt like that was kinda backwards, but it *is* how the typical graphics buffer is laid out, so I didn't think much of it.

 

I believe the dimensions where changed recently to increase the size of the frame. So depending on when you pulled your design and where you pulled it from, it's not surprising to hear you have extra space.

 

It was a couple months back I think. I don't mind the extra room, it just seemed a bit odd. But hey, it's a great theft prevention measure -- it won't fit through the door (just kidding, it does barely fit through the door, but only in one direction)

 

It is NinjaFlex. It is a bit old as I got it some time ago but just haven't used it much.

 

I guess you could set (0,0) where ever you want and just adjust movement accordingly. Since 0,0 was in the front left on my Printrbot, that is where I set it up on my C-Bot.

 

70mm for me. Surprisingly exact.

 

Pardon the mess...

 

@Carl Feniak Thank you for designing/releasing/maintaining this project (and also to everyone whose mods I used). Now that I have mine running I can truly say this design is amazing and I think this is going to be my favorite printer for years to come. Sorry about being a pain in the *** n00b making dumb suggestions before I even finished my build.

 

Thanks! I had it at 72.3 in the generator, which was throwing off the duct design. It's all fixed up and moving forward again.

 

Started up another big print. Playing around setting up an auto live stream for the printer. If anyone's curious here is the feed. Suggestions welcome!

 

How are you broadcasting the livestream through youtube? I use Octoprint, but your quality looks a lot better.

 

I use OBS with a C920 camera, then have a couple of window captures for Octoprint and S3D, finally a text object for the link for the current design being printed. The goal is to have this all automated via an Octoprint plugin. For now I am just validating the idea, next up is seeing if a Pi 2 or Pi 3 can handle the streaming, otherwise I will spin up an x86 linux box to manage the streaming. All of it will be controlled via an Octoprint plugin that will kick off the stream when the print starts up.

 

I gotta ask, how much plastic are you using on that one? That's a crazy amount of infill for something that big.

 

1.5 lbs! I wanted this to have some heft, which it will have since it's going to take almost the entire spool. But it's for mothers day...

 

I finished up my printer about a week ago, though I already have plans for a few more changes, so it may never be "done". I absolutely love it and it prints like a dream. I've had a roll of Ninjaflex for over a year that I could never get to work on my other printers. Let's just say its mostly gone at this point. Here are a few pics of the printer. The ugly beast next to it was my first attempt at a scratch build. Not pretty, but she is rock solid and prints wonderfully.

 

Almost done... Now I just have to print one to test it out



Update: I printed a small test piece last night. I didn't leave any tolerance room, so this turned out to be a *very* tight fit. At first I felt like I needed to change this, but then I noticed how little it moves -- zero movement of the extrusion once its in place. I think I could probably build the entire bottom with only a rubber mallet and have a rock solid base

I plan on having this on github sometime tonight or tomorrow so others can play with it. I did most of it as linear extrusions, so it renders super fast and it handles any v slot profile you throw at it.

 

Although it's a great design and once tweaked, the bed doesn't need much adjustment, I like the option of autoleveling. I use it on my Kossel with FSRs and it seems to work quite well. On my C-Bot I have the E3D VariPower plate, boro-glass and then a 2mm PEI sheet. That kind of eliminates inductance and makes IR a bit sketchy, so I noticed the BLTouch Classic. Any thoughts or experiences?

Secondly, I'm debating picking up S3D. Wondering if it's "all that and a bag of chips"? Kind of a hefty price, especially when you factor in the CDN currency conversion. (Currently using Cura)

 

+1 - Auto bed leveling. Works fabulously on my C-Bot.

+5 - S3D. I wasn't sure on it either, everyone kept raving about it. Now having used it for a month or so, it's $150 well spent dollars. Consider this, it's saves me plastic from failed prints. Besides the prints coming out better, the saved plastic is a bonus that might actually pay for itself in the long long run.

Edit - @TechGirl - Care to chime in on your experience with the BL Touch? Sounds like it would be perfect for the bed leveling for @wackocrash5150

 

+5

 

If you do that, don't forget that using the offset option you have to account for the fact that the bed mounting is "inverted" and it requires a fair bit more X space. I think in the online calculator I suggest increasing the X by 40mm.

 

Yeah, I actually didn't have enough room to mount with the standard pieces. Instead I just grabbed some M3 t-slot nuts and mounted directly to the bed. The IR sensor just does a 5x5 scan on first print after reboot and adjusts the Z height during print, and I was able to avoid having to glue the bed to the build plate since it's held in place by the extrusions..

So I guess mine doesn't conform to the reference build after all. Sorry to mislead and imply that it did..

 

It would be helpful to have them in the Excel calculator.. I honestly can't make heads or tails of 123D and have no idea how to figure out what the clearance is in it.

 

Like you I wanted the option of auto levelling an I've opted to use the BLTouch. While I haven't actually finished my C-Bot variant I have tested that the manual commands work with my Azteeg X3 Pro and Marlin. The only thing I haven't done is run the G29 command but I'm fairly sure it will work once I finish off my build. I used the Hot End Mount Generator (Hot End Mount Generator - Customizable for various carriages, hot ends and options. by croadfeldt) by @Chris Roadfeldt and designed my own mount for the BLTouch (BLTouch Mount for C-Bot by TechGirl_Mods).

I use S3D mainly because I wanted a bit more control over the slicer settings when printing on my XYZ Printing Davinci Duo 2.0a. Once I started using it I never used Slic3r or Cura again even when printing on my Prusa.

 

@TechGirl Thank you
I'll give the S3D a go. I've got 2 weeks after all if I don't like it.

 

@wackocrash5150 One of the things I like about S3D is the fact that you can use multiple process settings. For example if you wanted to change the amout of infill of a part depending on the height you can just add another process to do just that. Or you can print different models at different settings and when you prepare the models for printing you just combine the settings and the slicer works everything out for you.

 

Including different layer heights?

 

Yes, each process has total control over all parameters