Oh #1 change the first line to #include <fillet.scad> (without the ../). It is looking for the include file up one directory, which is where I have it but in the zip it is in the same directory.

The other thing is that it only builds one piece at a time. Scroll to the bottom and find the piece you want to generate and add/remove the "*" or // from the lines you want to include. Asterisk tells OpenSCAD to comment out the entire statement, which can span multiple lines. The // is just a regular comment to remove a line from the statement, which can be in the middle of two other parts of the same statement.

 

I like to do my own **** thing so I use hall effect sensors for my endstops. The advantage they have is that they are a "soft" endstop, which is to say that even after the endstop is hit, the printer can continue travel in that direction for a good distance before actually running into something. This is especially good for Z endstops because there is no fiddling with a screw to get the switch to click at juuuuuuuuust the right spot. With hall effect sensors you just get it close (within 5mm or so) then add a like of G-Code to the start commands to set the actual height of the endstop.


I got the A3144 hall effect sensors on eBay, like 10x for $3 shipped. You can plug these directly into endstop cabling 5V, GND, Signal and they work as normal NO switches (which means enable pullups in the firmware). I like to see when they are active so I just solder a resistor and LED between the 5V and Signal lines and cover with heatshrink. I could have just glued the trigger magnet right to the XY Bar mount but I thought I'd want to be able to adjust it so I made a little movable cube.

I attached it to the carriage using another of those belt clamp pieces flipped upside down with the hall sensor bent against the carriage. Sorry the lighting is so dark in the photo.

@Chris Roadfeldt I really like that endstop mounting. I might not have done it my way if I had yours available when I built my printer.

 

Bingo!! Thanks @CapnBry! I made those changes, muddled through the numbers and it worked out ok. Had to increase the separation of the mirrored parts to accommodate for the larger dowel but, otherwise ok. I'll be glad when I get this set up. I tried to be bold last night and print out a few ABS parts, only to end up making my very own "plastic tacos" lol

** side note. Can I ask why you decided on an angled top rather than flat? Just curious.

 

If you have an extra cheap endstop you can use my C-Bot direct drive backplate with cheap endstop mount by spiffcow

It's a simple hack/mashup of 2 different pieces in the C-Bot STLs, but it has worked out really well for me so far.

 

That's what I'm using right now and it works great. (my other endstops have since arrived, lol) Just trying to figure out how to make it work with the BLTouch that will arrive soon.

 

I built the first iteration square (with the bubble wrap) and posted about it somewhere in here. Due to the height required to accommodate the filament tube and wiring running to the head, the volume of the enclosed area is really big so it never really heated up due to leakage and I guess radiant loss. I think it was Carl who suggested making the back slanted to cut off some of the volume, which if you look at the math it really does make a significant difference. In addition, it cuts the top back corner which is the first thing that hits the back wall when you tilt the whole thing back so it was a win win. 45 degrees would have been easier on the math, but it wasn't enough room to move around the entire build area without pushing the enclosure around.

I will admit the whole thing is somewhat crude in design because they're just a dowel hole, some with a bolt holes in them but it does work. I haven't seen many enclosures on printers like the C-Bot, and the big issue is that every good span of frame to attach to is also the movement system so you can't just bolt panels onto the V-rail and be done. The other option I had was to just make a giant figgin box to enclose the thing like I have on my i3, except this would be something like 60cm x 70cm x 90cm.

 

@CapnBry Excellent explanation. Thank you sir.

 

Question.. in the files I see three different versions for the acme nut block. I have the Openbuilds acme nut block 34mm wide.. Which one should I use..?

 

That was one.. there is another version in the original files V3 by Sheefdog. The width is slightly different between the two..I will try Nick's version I guess..

 

@CapnBry
Like so?

 

I am trying to implement a cable chain to keep things tidy using the STLs in the "Wiring Accessories by Elmo Clarity". Something like that shown on page 84 of this thread. How does the chain connect to the top of the carriage? I thought it used the X Axis Support Base, but it appears to be back to front. It is also slightly too big to attach to the two holes where I think it should go.

I need some more pictures please....

 

I originally used the direct drive version of the carriage and it has a tab on top that I mounted to. I now use a carriage for the E3D Titan exturder and I put the tab on it too.

Here is an image of the direct drive front carriage. You can see the tab on the top. The picture you have shows the mount point at the top, but because it isn't extended, it might not fit. You could probably print a small piece to bolt on to the existing mount and make a tab.

 

Thanks. The fit is very close. I will rework the part. I still do not understand why it appears to be back to front. Maybe my understanding of how I should be implementing the chain is wrong. Should it come out of the top of the carriage to the left (as the part is drawn) or to the right (As per the picture on page 88)?

 

I'm not sure exactly what you are meaning, but here are a couple close up pictures of how it is mounted. Hopefully they will give you the information you need.

 

Thanks - do you have one showing more of the machine so that I can see the whole chain run.

 

I posted some a while ago, but I'm not going back through 88 pages to find them so I took a couple more. There are two independent runs of cable chains. One covers the X axis and the other the Y axis. Things are a bit of a mess right now so it is a bit difficult to move the printer for a better picture.

 

I found that other post. Did a search on my posts so only had to go through about 5 pages to find it.

C-Bot

 

I had been looking at that post earlier. The new pictures make it clear. Thanks very much.

 

I modified the X Axis Support Base to fit my carriage.
I have also modified the toplink and bottomlink to mount with M3 caphead.
All seems to fit okay:







I have attyached the STLs incase if they are any use to anyone.

Thanks again Elmo for your help.

 

@IanT Glad you got it working. When I did mine, I had no idea anyone else would be interested in it. Glad I have been able to help out.

 

I thought the TMC2100 don't handle high speeds / acceleration in silent mode very well?

 

They are running in spreadcycle mode, not stealthchop

 

Bit of shown-and-tell: I recently used my X-Carve CNC to machine a mic6 aluminum removable build plate for my C-Bot.
Ended up doing three separate cuts on it:
* Create a pocket in each corner to allow for clearance around the HBP bolt heads.
* Create a pocket on the top of each side to allow for recessed bulldog clips.
* Create a channel in the bottom to tape in the thermistor: This also means I had to install a barrel-jack into my thermistor line allowing it to be decoupled from the printer during plate removal.

Came out great, I'm really happy with it.

Building the C-Bot 3d Printer : Part 33 : Machining a mic6 aluminum removable build plate

 

Very nice! i did something similar, but with my drill press and a dremel. Your cuts are much cleaner looking. Great job!

 

Nicely done, looks great!

If you happen to do this again, you might want to think about moving the thermistor to the rear and mounting it up E3D style. The temp indicated are closer to the surface temp and it shows the actual temp of the plate itself.

 

Not quite following you: As is, my thermistor is in the middle of the plate (on XY), not touching the HPB at all, but the core of the aluminum plate itself on Z: The heat will really have to saturate the plate before the thermistor will start detecting it, thus giving a pretty accurate read.
Do you have a pic of what you're talking about?

& thanks for the compliments everyone

 

Sorry, I wasn't very clear.

I'm printing at the moment but caught the head of the bolt holding the thermistor in. It's the small bolt next to This is the exact same setup that E3D using on their hot ends. I picked it up the instructions from Tom Sanladerer, video link below.

Guide: Heated bed thermistor mounting done properly!

 

AH, I got you, thanks for the pics. In fact, I did see that guide back in the day.

I didn't go that route for the main reason I feel the back of the bed (my bed at least), in the center, heats faster than the rest of it, where the leads meet it. Just holding my finger there I can tell a difference. I figured the 'center' of the bed would give me the most accurate reading.

But the solution you provided would have taken a lot less work, and doesn't need a CNC