I guess there are a lot of ways to mount the thermistor. I ended up mounting mine on the bottom of the aluminum plate, dead center. Used the press to drill a small hole 50% of the way through the plate just barely large enough for the bead giving it good solid contact on all sides and the tip. Seems to work well for my setup. Beats the old days of just taping it on.

 

I always use a thermal epoxy to set my thermistor in place. It eliminates any air gaps between the plate and thermistor. I also use strain relief on the wires.

 

Good call: I have some, but didn't want to use it yet until I knew this setup worked. Should probably take off the tape and glue it in there

Separate topic: Anyone else got RepRap Firmware working on a Due/RADDS combo? I've been trying to give it a shot, but I'm unable to flash it to my Due via bossac:
$ /path/to/bossac --port=cu.usbmodem621 -e -w -v -U false -b /path/to/RepRapFirmware/Release/RepRapFirmware-1.12a-dc42.bin

It keeps telling me "No device found on cu.usbmodem621". Nothing I do seems to make it recognize that port, even though both Arduino and Simplity3D do (and they're closed at time of upload).

Any tips?

 

I know it is not the same system, but when I had to flash firmware to the Duet board (Due based), I didn't have to add the port. bossac would locate it automatically. This is the command I used...

bossac.exe -e -w -v -b RepRapFirmware-1.09x-dc42.bin

Oh. And on the Duet, you had to first click an erase button and then reset to get it into programming mode.

But then again, this was on a Windows system. Never did it from a *nix based system.

 

Thanks @Elmo Clarity : Yah, I'm using the programming port for the USB, which means (based on what I've read) I only press reset. If I used the native port to the left, I'd have to hit erase, then reset. But the erase button is blocked by the RADDS shield, and I'd have to unwire everything to pull it off of there. Which may verywell happen at some point. I gave it a shot anyway without providing the port, but bossac couldn't find anything to connect to, even though both Arduino & Simplify3d do

The gory details are currently playing out here:
RADDS work now stable with RepRap Firmware

 

@Elmo Clarity or anyone else running RepRap Firmware: Would you mind sharing your SD card \sys folder as as starting point? I'd rather start with something known good

On a side note, I got it uploaded: Had to take literally the entire board apart, pull the RADDS shield off the Due to access the 'erase' button, and do it via the native usb port instead of the programming port. What a pain... :S

 

I'm not sure how different the core RepRap Firmware is from the Duet's version but here is my sys folder.

 

Thanks, that helps.

Another question: How do you know... it's working?
Note, I have yet to actually plug anything back into it yet, other than the RADDS shield itself.
I flashed the due with the firmware, but I can't get anything to talk to it now: Do you connect over simplfy3d (or something similar) and if so, can you explain what magic needs to entail to make that happen? Even though the Arduino IDE detects something is on the port, the serial monitor is blank.
Much thanks!
I've been scouring the web, but I can find no sort of 'first time users guide for RRF' anywhere. If I can actually get this working I plan to write one...

 

I normally communicate with the Duet over the web interface. I have only connected directly to it via the USB to flash firmware. And with the new web interface, I can update the firmware now by uploading the file via the web interface.

 

AH: I don't think that works for the RADDS setup. Could be wrong, but since RADDS only has USB, no ethernet like the Duet, that may not be an option. They make references to "you need to use host software to control it", but nothing more.
Sounds like I'm off the rails :S Thanks though!

 

While my C-Bot has been down waiting for a new bed heater, I have had too much time to think about things to do to it. One thing that has bothered me has been the part cooling fan shroud. I have the one AK Eric made, but while the shroud is great, I don't get much air out of it. I am using a standard 40x40x10mm fan so I'm pretty sure that is the issue. I don't have one of those huge ones like on his printer (but we have a machine at work that has about a dozen of those fans and that system isn't working.... ), but I do have a 40mm coaxial fan. I use one on my Printrbot Simple Metal for the cooling fan and thought it would work great for the C-Bot. Luckily, the adapter for Printrbot is made to replace a 40mm fan. I'm hoping that the adapter will also work with AK Eric's shroud. I am printing one now to find out, but probably won't get it fitted until tomorrow.

Here is a link to it on Thingiverse.

In regards to the heater on the printer, I am using a 600W 120v Keenovo 300x200mm silicon heater. The heating coil failed on it. Since it was only 5 months old and it has a 1 year warranty, I contacted Keenovo about it. They were quick to respond and great to work with. They just asked for the order number and a picture of it and sent me out a new unit that should be here Tuesday. They were really nice and friendly and a joy to work with.

 

Yah, the 24cfm I have on there has enough oomph to act like a hovercraft if you put it on a table I never thought what that shroud would act like with a 4-5cfm fan on it...

Another Question @Elmo Clarity : What endstops are you using with your Duet\RRF? I have everything else working now on my RADDS\RRF, but RRF isn't detecting my endstops. It's possible because I snipped the v5 leads off them (which power the LEDs), so I only have signal & ground now, since the Due is 3.3v : That worked fine with Repetier, but RRF is just a no-go. So I need to find some other option....

 

Sounds like I am using the same type of end stop as your are it sounds like. Since you are only using the ground and signal line, the voltage the board runs at is pretty much irrelevant. The RADDS board should have a pull-up resistor on the signal line (it could be an internal pull-up). If RRF isn't recognizing the end stops, but Repetier was, it sounds like a configuration issue. On the Duet, M574 is used to configure the end stops. My end stops are NC so the signal line is connected to ground when not triggered. There is the command I use to configure my end stops.

M574 X1 Y1 Z0 S0 ; set endstop configuration (X and Y and endstops only, at low end, active high)

I use an inductive probe for Z so there is no end stop on it, thus the Z0 in the command.

 

Good morning all. It seems I'm having some difficulty modifying a part to attach my new BLTouch probe. Basically what I'm trying to do is make a few holes (3) with nut traps on the Direct extruder rear plate in order to mount TechGirl's BLTouch mounting bracket. I figured that I could mount it opposite to the endstop on the left side (looking from the rear of the entire carriage assembly. Admittedly my request for help stems from my lack of ability in the popular modeling apps. I even tried the 123D file and it was odd as it would let me modify what was there but I couldn't figure out how to copy/paste features; it would just copy the whole part. When done, I plan on using the stl as part of the "cheap endstop" scad file to in turn generate that as well. I'm confident that this would take an app proficient person about 60 seconds to do, just I guess I'm just not wrapping my head around it.
Long story short; I just want to use my new toy (BLTouch) and I need help .... lol

BLTouch Mount for C-Bot by TechGirl_Mods

 

What end stop, hot end and fan do you have? And are you using direct drive? You might be able tonier the generator to create the carriage for you and use the bl touch mount.

 

E3D Volcano with a direct setup.

 

K, yeah I need to get off my butt and add the direct drive to the generator.....

 

Got the coaxial adapter put on the shroud and it's working. I can definitely feel air coming out now. Still not as strong as I was hoping for, but better than the other fan.


Mounts with 4 M3x8 screws and nuts.

3 M3x20 screws and nuts gets the fan in place.

and it clears the back rail. This was my biggest concern.

Now I just need to get the new bed heater (should be here tomorrow) and the PrintBite and I'll be ready to melt some more plastic.

@Carl Feniak Might consider adding this adapter to the C-Bot collection.

 

If you're on it, I'll wait. I was planning on finishing the enclosure and stringing up my LED strips. This means I have to remove the gantry to stick the lights and reroute the cables just inside the frame rather than outside. I'd rather do it all at once and install the probe as well. No pressure ..... lol

 

I really don't want to rush you (especially since I'm late on my promised mods), but I am eagerly awaiting the direct drive support as well

 

Thanks guys, appreciate the support?

On a side note, anyone near minnesota with a spare e3d v6 heatbreak? Broke mine and have a big 3dHubs job I need to finish up...

 

I think that I speak for many here when I say that we do appreciate yours and the support of others. I know that I would be much further behind on my build if it wasn't for help I found here. As a matter of fact, I feel somewhat bad that all I do is ask questions and for help and have yet to contribute anything, except a "thanks" and a smiley face.... lol



Thanks

 

Hey man, don't sweat it. Folks wouldn't help if they didn't want to, we all were there once and still are many times and me personally, I enjoy passing along what I know and helping out.

Ask away!

 

I wish I could support you with some pull requests, but I haven't even gotten my own project off the ground.. The last of the prototype pieces is printing now though, so hopefully once I get to a stopping point I can offer some assistance.. I have some ideas on how to make the wheel and belt tightening easier and more precise..

 

Wheel tightening? Here is what I used...




They are designed to fit around the wheel and put the pressure on the spacer, not the wheel, to tighten. Just be sure not to go crazy with the C-Clamp since it can put enough pressure on the deform the wheel and/or V-Slot. Makes it a lot easier when you don't have a third hand.

Including the STL if anyone is interested.

 

That's freaking rad! Man that was a pain trying to get the wheels tightened just right... This would have saved a lot of time! Heck, it may still when I put everything back together

Did you design that in OpenSCAD? If so, will you share? This is very close to what I was envisioning... My plan was essentially this, but to make it a permanent fixture, integrate the spacers as part of the piece, add a bridge between the two wheel wells on each side, and put some some nut traps in the mounts for tightening.

 

Yeah. Used OpenSCAD. Here is the file.

 

I can put it up on Thingiverse if you feel it would be useful to the C-Bot collection.

 

@Elmo Clarity Very cool! The good ideas are always the ones that you think to yourself "now why didn't I think of that?" lol