That is for ver. 1.2 is ver 1.3 here at
Online Shop 3D priter Smoothieware control board MKS SBASE V1.3 opensource 32bit Smoothieboard Arm support Ethernet preinstalled heatsinks|Aliexpress Mobile
A newer version?

 

Nice! Go with that if you trust ali express. I've been meaning to try them out, but no idea what the fraud rate is like.. Would love to hear opinions

 

Man do I feel stupid. It's been awhile since I've been on here I've been real busy and decided to post my question without looking back few pages. If I would have looked back at least 5 pages I would have noticed everyone's been talking about the different boards they are using. Seems like all my questions were answered pretty much ...now I have to decide and how much money I want to drop. Still might try the Mks sbase, or save and get the RADDS like AK has...

 

I took a leap and used them for my 24v PSU. Was shipped via ePacket rather quickly (compared to regular China Post) in just under 2 weeks. I actually had to use the phone app to confirm that I'd received it. I was quite leery that they didn't accept PayPal but as I understand, they have their own buyer protection, although I didn't have to use it. As far as I know (and I could be very wrong here) is that you pay upon ordering, but the other end doesn't receive the funds until you have the item or a length of time passes (in which you can file a dispute). Kind of like escrow. I only have that one experience but it was positive. Just ordered a PiCam for my OctoPi on there a couple days ago. Let you guys know how that order goes.


On another note, I got my MKS GEN 1.4 installed and it works quite well. Made up a case for it and everything. Beefy case that was a 7 hour print (longest to date) and it turned out rather well. Modified a design I found using OpenSCAD, Sketchup and 123D ! lol. I few dumb mistakes like forgetting to relocate the USB opening and (Dremel fixed that) and not lining up screw hole more precisely , but otherwise not bad. I'll reprint with corrections when I get time butr it's no longer a priority.

 

I've been quite pleased using Due\RADDS\RepRap Firmware since I upgraded. Able to print way faster than I even could with Marlin.
While I wouldn't say the print quality is leaps and bounds above Marlin\Repetier, there are subtle areas where I notice a positive difference. Definitely nothing got worse. Plus the more I learn about RRF the more I like it. Configuring it is super easy once you grasp it all: No compiling needed, just change values and restart the board. With v1.13, you can now upgrade to future firwares super easy too: Copy a file to the sd card, run a mcode, and... updated.
All that being said, if I did it again I'd go the Duet route rather than Due\RADDS, since that supports their web interface, and the RADDS version is a port based on the work of one guy (Dan Newman, which is greatly appreciated).

 

Hmm... If we're doing apples for apples, china based suppliers are cheaper than you mentioned.
3D Printer kit 1pcs Mega 2560 R3 + 1pcs RAMPS 1.4 Controller+ 5pcs DRV8825 Stepper Motor Drive + 1pcs LCD 2004 controller-in Other Electronic Components from Electronic Components & Supplies on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

Another big benefit is module redundancy. Which looks pretty bad on the MKS SBASE. What happens if a driver pops because you accidentally unplug a motor whilst it's powered? RAMPS boards have pololu sockets which fit DRV8825's, so only a £1 component needs to be changed.
3D Printer StepStick DRV8825 Stepper Motor Driver Carrier Reprap 4 layer PCB RAMPS replace A4988-in 3D Printer Parts & Accessories from Computer & Office on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

Same thing with the microcontroller; If you overload a pin, and blow out the IO driver, thats only a <£7 replacement for the arduino board.
Free shiping !!! Mega 2560 R3 Mega2560 REV3 ATmega2560 16AU Board + USB Cable compatible for arduino good quality low price-in Other Electronic Components from Electronic Components & Supplies on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group

 

I have used Ali a lot too... So for so good...

 

It's true that swapping out the drivers is easier on RAMPS, but with the ability to control current directly in Smoothieware you'll never bee in the situation where you're going to fry your stepper driver in the first place.

Fair enough on the price though. I hadn't seen the configuration that cheap before. All the same, as an owner of both a RAMPS and an MKS Sbase, I would never buy a RAMPS setup again.. It's far too much hassle.

 

For my own curiosity, and to avoid me digging, do you know how smoothieware sets current to each stepper? I'd be interested to see how they do it. That being said, it's not current that kills stepper drivers when they're disconnected/connected, it's inductance and the resulting back emf!

If I'm honest, I know very little about smoothieware boards and firmware. Just that RAMPS is great if you want to spend less up front, and less for inevitable repairs.

 

if you want a smoothie compatible board with swappable drivers, look into the azteeg x5 mini v3, available at panucatt and ultibots, but it only supports 1 Z motor and extruder, it can control the current of plug in boards digitally if they have the extra pins for it(i think they need extra pins, i am not sure since i dont have one myself) but it costs 109usd+drivers

 

I don't know the technical aspects of how it sets the current.. But the interface is pretty simple -- there's a config file setting for how many amps you want output to each stepper. The drivers also tend to perform better, as they have a heatsink that actually works (as opposed to the little ones you get with a pack of single drivers). You can also re-map pins, which is really handy when you want to test whether you have a problem with your stepper or with your driver. They are harder to replace though -- you basically have to get a break out board to replace a failed driver. I haven't run into that situation yet, so I don't know how much of a pain that is. I'm also not sure how/if you can go beyond 5 steppers, which is a bit of a problem if you want dual extrusion (this is an issue for RAMPS too, though some RAMPS derivatives allow more steppers). Being able to choose between 24V and 12V and still use 5V for the sensors is nice too.

Smoothie feels more like a finished product, IMO. I wouldn't pay the insane price for a genuine Smoothieboard, but the MKS clone is a great deal, and I would probably even be willing to pay for an Azteeg x5 if it came down to that.

 

Anyone done the PT100 conversion on their E3D hot ends yet?

V6 PT100 Total Upgrade Kit

 

duh-oh, added it to my original post.

 

What materials need >300degC print temps?

 

Does the MKS have a web interface like the Duet?

 

So after another night of trying to get all-metal V6 clones to keep from jamming for 5 seconds I've decided I need to take a different approach.. I'm thinking of getting a legit E3D V6 all metal, but it's still $80.. I also thought about a Hexagon which is only $40, but looks like you can't buy parts for it individually. A compromise idea might be to just buy the E3D throat (which seems to be the issue) and use clone parts for the rest.. I'm also open to other options, but I need something that can print nylon.

Any suggestions?

 

Supposedly, though I don't know for sure (I use wifi and don't have an extra ethernet router to plug it into). It's a Smoothieboard clone, so basically anything Smoothie does, the MKS Sbase can do.

Be careful to get the Sbase though, not the Base or the Gen1.4.

 

Nothing that I am printing at the moment. I am going to start doing some polycarb and nylon prints. Some of those filaments get into the 270deg C range. It was a little too close to the max temp range of the thermistor, plus they are start loosing accuracy, even more so then they start with, at higher temps. So I was looking at thermocouplers, I saw E3D had the PT100s, they come in super convenient packaging. So I bought kits and volcano blocks for my hot ends, converting them all over at the same time so I can keep swapping them in and out as needed. The better accuracy, ease of install and most likely better reliability are all bonuses. Was just curious if anyone had tried them yet and had any words of wisdom for me.

 

Hi. So this is going to seem like a real NooB question. I have Printer finally built and wired up however whenever I send manual commands to move the X axis it moved both X and Y and similary when I send commands to move Y it also moves X. Seems this is by design based on the way the belt is attached. Am I missing something? ( my previous printers were all Cartesian with the heatbed moving along Y and Print head along X etc). Thx

 

it sounds like your firmware isn't set to use the corexy calculation setting, it defaults to normal cartesian, which makes these move at 45 degrees instead of 90

 

Thanks Carl & Star
Is there more to it that simply uncommenting the #define COREXY as I had tried this. When this is commented out the X&Y act as described above (ie both at the same time at 45degrees) however when I remove the comments then none of the steppers work at all including the Z?
Any ideas?
Thanks again

 

Are you getting any error messages in your comm window?

 

I assume you are using Marlin on RAMPS/Mega?
If so, have you set the voltages on your stepper drivers?
What version of Marlin are you using?

 

Hi,

this is my first post here. I decided to build the C-Bot reworked with Z screws at the front and the rear. I already have a Kossel Mini that I built from a T3P3 kit, so I could print plastic parts myself mainly in PLA but I managed to print the Hotend carriage in ABS without too much shrinkage and delamination.

I already have the XY mechanism working but I have difficulties with the Z. I have a cheap chinese RAMPS board with cheap drivers set to 0.62V. When I connect both Z motors to the Z driver, I only have an awful noise and no movement (without load). I raised voltage to 1.3V and I only have small rotations and then steps skipped. The driver works perfectly when only one motor is connected with 0.6V. I have 49Ncm motors so maybe they are demanding too much current from that driver.

Before trying dual Z stepper drivers (that would prevent the use of a second extruder), I would like to know what is your experience in that regards. Should I need better drivers or weaker motors ?

I intent to use a 320 x 320 x 6mm aluminum bed heated with a 220V silicon heater.

Thanks

 

My first attempt at it was to uncomment COREXZ instead of COREXY. So only one motor was working at a time for the horizontal movements.

 

Sounds a bit like you have excess resistance on your stepper shafts.
Can you turn the leadscrews by hand with the motors unpowered? If yes, disassemble both Z motors from the printer, and electrically disconnect one of them. Then try a Z move; does the motor move unhindered? If so, ensure both motors are correctly polarised, and each phase is connected together. Try them again, and let us know if they still resist movement.

If you can't turn the leadscrews by hand, you should find where the resistance is and fix it. The screws need to be nice and truely square to the Z carriage

 

Hi Austin,

the test was redone without leadscrew attached and the same thing happens, even at 1.3V. The motor shaft barely rotate at that level. At lower level, only noise is produced. The same on both motors when connected in parallel but rotation with torque when only one is connected even at 0.6V