If you go this route, you really should design and build it in a CAD program first, it doesn't really matter which one you use, but because of the modifications to this design you'd be making, you'll need the help and measurements. All the openbuilds plates are open source, so someone can print them for you or machine them out of aluminum. If you're very set on building a machine using as many openbuilds parts/brackets as possible, it might be worthwhile to have a look around at other designs, some use as many brackets as they can for the machine, they just need printed parts for some more custom parts that would be difficult to mod a plate into.

The C-bot also only uses 30-40 printed parts, 45 max if you go with some extras or modifications.

If you change the wheels, I would recommend changing the current slanted slot to accept 2 eccentric spacers instead for each set of 4 wheels(2 wheels on 1 side of each carriage, might be able to use an eccentric space on each end of the bolts for the adjustment wheels). They're easy to adjust, and in the limited experience I've had with them, they didn't even come a little loose. It also might be easier than designing a set up that physically moves the wheel bolts with a set screw, or clamping like many delta printers use.

 

I think it looks good, I didn't know Google+ communities were searchable... or could have multiple sections. But with things being split up like that, will probably make it easier to track conversations.

 

Yah, thanks Carl: Personally I'd just shut this 'OpenBuilds Discussion' down (if you can?) and use the G+ group exclusively, will be far more easier to track conversations\threads.
Personally, I wouldn't want to have discussions happening in two places.
But that's just my opinion

 

Agreed, if possible lock this board to keep the info and then add a sticky note or whatever can be done pointing folks to the new discussion forum is all that is needed here now.

 

I had considered the concentric spacers but honestly I am not too happy with openbuilds. Just before ordering the wheels they were apparently including 2 washers which the picture still indicated and downgraded the wheel package to one while charging quite a bit per washer for additional washers with proper OD to engage the bearing plus at the price I paid they aren't machined too well considering a cheap set I used to build my Kossel have worked quite a bit better in regards to finish & design.

Since I was low on washers with the proper OD and refused to place another order with openbuilds I went ahead and tapered the openbuild spacers with a dremel tonight(pictured below). To finish 18 aluminum spacers took about 20-25 minutes.

 

Cheers Carl.

I generated it using my pinion gear generator Gear generator for Solidworks (Straight / Helix / Herringbone) by austingeorge
I've not released it as its made to fit my extruder which I also haven't released. It also won't fit any normal wades style design (unless i magically chose the same gear profile characteristics)

I can bob over a few drawings or renders if you fancy whipping one up yourself?

 

In the process of finishing a d-bot build and was wondering if anyone has any info on CoreXy for smoothieware. Have a Mks Sbase on order and was hoping to find some info before i started getting into it. I see some stuff on there github but not much more than that.

 

Anyone have a working config file for d-bot on smoothieware?

 

Are you using an actually smoothieboard? The configs are slightly different depending on which control board you're using, I'm running smoothieware on an Azteeg X5 v1.1 right now.

 

I'm using smoothieware clone mks sbase.
Cant find more info on corexy with smoothieware. Need an example config file as a reference to set up mine.

 

I use Smoothieware on an MKS SBase. Works fine. Just download the latest Smoothie firmware and follow the instructions on the wiki

 

Mine sharing your files as reference?

 

Hbot/CoreXY - Smoothie Project

 

Sure, next time I'm on my home computer

 

Thank a lot . Let me know where to download after u upload it somewhere. Thanks again

 

anyone here know how well the full size wheel modification works that is listed by pushpreet in the files, or if there is another mod floating out there to do this?

 

I am excited about the Google+ page

 

Sorry for the wait. Here's my config file.. Also, don't forget to jumper the Z steppers.

 

thank a lot buddy. what do u mean by "jumper the Z steppers"? (sorry cos im very new in this)

 

There's an explanation on the appendix of the smoothieware website. I strongly urge you to read the entire guide before wiring up your board.. It's by far the best documention you'll find for a controller board

3D Printer Guide - Smoothie Project

 

Just to clarified:
Did u use auto leveling?
What kind of controller u use with mks sbase?
And
what is your print volume?

 

I did use auto-leveling. I'm not sure what you mean by the controller used? I use the serial-over-USB connection for communicating with it, though I'll be switching to Octoprint in the near future. Print volume is conservatively 300x300x300mm, though I could probably extend it to 350x350x400 without major modifications.

 

I meant what type of LCD controller u r using with tour mks board?

 

I'm not using one

 

Sorry for the long delay in replying. The forum messed up again and I just realized tonight I hadn't heard anything from the C-Bot group in awhile. I got about a month worth of threads to catch up on (10 pages).

The fan shroud was one I found on Thingiverse. I haven't been able to find the project, but here is the STL file with both a left and right handed version.

EDIT: I see that Carl posted right after answering the question.