Jerry , i have finish the carriages with the wheels like yours but i will print at least one carriage to see if it's fit.
Now i'm working on calibration, i will give a try with repetier, hope it will use less cpu on arduinio 2560.
Thank again for help!

 

I assume you are building this DeltaSix with my version of the vertexes.

If your horizontal 20x40 extrusion is cut to 300mm, then I think arm length at 260 to 270mm is probably good. You can possibly cut the rods too long to start with and then use tape to hold the ball joints in place while you visually verify sanity of the rod angles at the diameter limit you are wanting. Cut them down a little if needed and recheck.

I am finishing up one with 320mm horizontal pieces and I used 300mm arms in it and the rod angles all look good to me. It's the one sitting on the floor at right side of this photo:

https://goo.gl/photos/a2423oj55oruaGRh6

Good luck with your build!

 

Thanks Jerry

I'm building with stock version of vertex

 

Since you are using the stock, I plugged those numbers into the openscad Delta calculator located here: Delta-Six and came up with 278mm as the length. This is using a delta Angle of 30.77. If you use this calculator, you will need to comment out line 200
//DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD = 440;
or you can put whatever number you want there to see how the other numbers work. I remixed this calculator from: GitHub - Jaydmdigital/mk_visual_calc: mini Kossel visual calculator . I am not expert on Delta's, so someone else can tell you whether these numbers look reasonable. There is also a Delta simulator located here: GitHub - PRouzeau/OpenSCAD-Delta-Simulator: Simulate cinematic of a delta robot (3D printer or CNC) - Animation The author added the Delta-Six into his list of deltas.

With the 300 horizontals & 700 verticals, these are the numbers I get for you Delta with that calculator. See if those number seem reasonable.
ECHO: "DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD = ", 277.964
ECHO: "Delta_Ang = ", 30.77
ECHO: "***** BedDia = ", 233.204, "mm ", 9.18127, "inches"
ECHO: "***** Max Build Height:", 296.306, "mm assuming a narrow tower or cone shaped build."
ECHO: "***** Max Build Height in Inches: ", 11.6656, "inches"
ECHO: "Printer Width = ", 408.68, "mm ", 16.0898, "inches"
ECHO: "Printer Depth = ", 436.869, "mm ", 17.1996, "inches"
ECHO: "Printer Height = ", 700, "mm ", 27.5591, "inches"

 

Thank you David

 

Almost finished the printer ( the wires are not all ok fixt), but now i'm working on calibration.
Diagonal roods :36cm
Height :92 cm
The side of the base/top frame: 43cm
For now i only have one 26cm diameter aluminium heated bed.

Firmware: rich cattell marlin with auto levelling. After 3 hour of hundreds of iteration still not ok.

Hardware: arduino with ramps and 128 x 64 dot matrix LCD display
Not stable at all, i have tried 3 arduino boards and 2 ramps.
I do not recommend this controller+extension! maybe not enough CPU.
Still working on auto leveling.

The frame is hard as a stone.

 

I was looking for a puzzle to work on today, so I converted Jerry's vertex to openscad. It is difficult to convert all the rounded edges, but this is pretty close. I did some section cuts where the horizontal holes to check against the original. The bolt holes have about .7mm facets. There are variables for the bolt hole diameters & resolution. This mod has .91cubic cm more volume than original. Attached is the openscad file & a STL file.

 

Very nice. I wish I had time to play with openscad more.

 

I found a little extra time to finish what will probably be my last of these for a little while (too much other work happening for the next few months). It's 200mm diameter with build height of 320mm. I installed the new beta Duet WiFi board and with the new stepper drivers running at 1/16 with 1/256 interpolation enabled it is VERY quiet. Running the same 0.9 degree/step motors as all my others. It also uses the new smaller effector I posted a few messages back which I am really liking now that I have the details of my fan ducts worked out. And like the others it prints dimensionally perfect enough parts anywhere on the bed.

https://goo.gl/photos/UQNNqLhQ3m899gse9

Now I'm left with 40+ meters of unused 20x40, 20x60, and 20x80 v-slot and enough motors and electronics to build 10 more printers - some of it will eventually become a large cartesian printer in the 400mm cube range - probably something similar to the C-Bot.

 

I pretty much finished this about a week or so, but just getting it together today. I created openscad files of Jerry's carriage, Rod Mount and Belt clamp parts. I also made the carriage part so it should work with 2060 V-Slot by changing the variable

V_Wid = 60; //40 = 2040, 60 = 2060, 80 = 2080

It will probably work with 2080 also, by changing V-Wid to 80. I have not tested the carriage but did overlay the stl files & did test the belt clamp. The belt clamp was a little too tight for me, so I used the numbers I had on a similar belt design that worked for me. I included the openscad files & stl files generated from them for your use.

I also made the dovetail clearance .3mm on the Belt Tensioner Base which was a nicer fit for me. I tried to add some chamfer to the top of the belt tensioning base, but was too much trouble in openscad.

Let me know if you have any problems with the files.

Thanks for the parts to play with Jerry.

 

Vertex update. I know I said I wasn't building any more of these for a while. Now I'm building a few more.

I combined my 2 lower corners into a single printed part: https://goo.gl/photos/6GSwED8g2XAYsY2z8 I am printing these with 4 top and bottom layers and 6 perimeter passes and 30% infill and they seem just about perfect.

I also increased the size of the hole for the 20x40 by 0.1mm on both the 20 and 40 mm dimension such that (with my printer calibration) the 20x40 slides into the printed part with not much effort - instead of the rubber mallet previously needed.

I also added 4 access holes to get to the stepper motor M3 screws with a ball-tip driver on the tall version.

The new combined bottom vertex and the single for the top (both with the 0.1mm enlargement) are now in with the other STL files here: Dropbox - Latest STL files

 

Hi Jerry, going back to the first pic in post #558 here, eSun Solid Red PETg 100% infill, it looks like there are some ~1mm thick, round helper hold down tabs. Do you have any full pics of the part being printed? or can you post a final print stl with the tabs? was that with Aquanet? what bed/extruder temps? thanks.

I finally did get your std vertex to print with eSun ABS with no warping 70% infill, but it was on hot day with the AC turned off. Chamber got to 55C. Gorgeous print, but I think ABS is going to have to wait until I can add an AUX heater and other upgrades to the chamber so I can reliably run at 60C to get 8 more.

Your double high vertex is impressive. 29 hour print?

I discovered my E3D V6 is not happy printing eSun PETg in a heated chamber because of filament jams. I did a test print with zero retract and it still jammed. Dissecting the filament plug it looks like the heat break and heatsink are not able to keep up, and the molten plastic is extending across the heat break gap for about 5mm into the finned heat sink section. I'd like to run with a touch of heat in the chamber, but I don't have the cool down vent automated yet. Adding a water cooled print head to the project list. So for now, I'd just like to duplicate your outstanding prints.

 

I no longer use the tabs. Just using the eSun PLA+ now and Aquanet only. E3D is at 215C and bed at 60C. The double high vertex is a 14 hour print for me with a 0.4mm nozzle at 30% infill, 0.25mm layer height and 3600mm/min setting in S3D.

Here is photos of it printing one as I type:
https://goo.gl/photos/ir13RY3MT2kqJ33R8
and
https://goo.gl/photos/ByAqtXdfa1CXJCfE8

My last 8 or so of these printers has been all eSun PLA+ and I like it a LOT - enough that I ordered 300 rolls of it direct for one of my bigger projects.

 

Thanks so much for your work. I plan on making my first Delta based off your rendition. Do you think eSun PLA+ is as strong as PETG? Have you tried other PETG besides eSUN? Why I ask is personally I was never able to get eSun PETG quite right. Using MG Chemicals or MakerGeeks PETG was like printing with PLA. Both of those PETG brands bridge just like PLA.

Also was wondering if you'd be able to share the actual CAD files. I'd like to mod to adapt to Magnet links.

Thanks in advance.

 

I think the eSun PLA+ is probably just as strong as the PETG. Buy a roll of it and see how you like it.

I've had great results with Hatchbox PETG.

Sorry... for security reasons I cannot share the CAD files due to the possibility (however minimal it may be) of them containing embedded information which could be related to other work I do under extremely strict NDA rules. It should not take much time to draw the parts you need to use the magnet links.

 

Vertex rail hole was too loose using my printer, and I didn't want to bug Jerry, so I cloned it up in FreeCAD. Then I added some rails to see what the printer would look like. Finishing up the carriage clone. Effector is next. I can post source if there is interest and if it is OK with Jerry.

I'm probably going to enclose the printer so I wanted something more heat tolerant than eSun PLA+. I just printed a pretty perfect Vertex in eSun ABS+ (just needed some hold down feet). I have some Maker Geeks Raptor PLA coming in - supposedly it is good to 125C after it is annealed and it is tougher than ABS. MG is saying their Maker ABS is medical grade and shrinkage should be almost as good as ABS+. Plan to evaluate shrinkage between eSun ABS, eSun ABS+, Raptor and Maker Geeks ABS. I did get one good Vertex print with eSun ABS w/chamber temp of 56C, but it really wants to be 60C which will require an aux heater.

 

You are more than welcome to use my magnetic effector and carriages. The effector is the one I use on my Rostoc, and I've been updating the models for a few months now and am finally happy with them. My only gripe is that the proximity sensor mount is too low, so I had to secure it using the top of the hotend triangle, it works well just not as intended. I've posted versions of these a few pages back, but these are the most up to date, if you have the mini wheels look back to my previous post I changed the model to full wheels instead of duplicating it.

 

Thanks!

 

Jerry - can't thank you enough for all the photos and sharing your design files. Will you be posting the smaller effector and fan shrouds anytime soon?

This might be a nit or it may be intentional, but walking thru the STL's I noticed the effector parallel width was 75 mm and the carriage_v3_rod_mount had a spacing of 75.2mm.

What kind of extruder drive gear are you using?

Looks like you cut the MIC plate to be a equilateral hexagon that just fits inside the base triangle. Are those just round aluminum spacers for the three supports?

Edit: Also what limits the Max angle of the Delta when the rods are almost vertical? Jerry I think you had an 81.6Deg value on one of your early diagrams. What's a good assumed min Angle 22Deg? With the 425 horizontals/320 build area example, I assume the 400mm rods have to get longer when you go to the new smaller effector to get a larger build area?

 

Zappo,

The new compact effector and shrouds are now added to my STL files for download.

I don't remember exactly why I dimensioned that at 75.2mm - probably to compensate for how the print was coming from the particular printer I was using. I put it back at 75 and replaced the STL file.

Extruder drive gear is for the Wanhao D4 - available at Uncle Chucks 3D Printer Stuff and a very good (maybe better) similar one at 38 Teeth Steel Extruder Drive Gear ID 5mm : 3DP2GO.COM These gears grab very well and will not slip and grind the filament if your tension against the idler is sufficient.

Yes, the MIC6 plate is cut to just reach the outside edge of the horizontal extrusions. Length of 204mm on each of the 6 sides will fit perfectly if your horizontals are cut to 425mm length. Those are aluminum spacers I cut using my CNC lathe.

 

Thanks for the effector upload!

Also what limits the Max angle of the Delta when the rods are almost vertical? Jerry I think you had an 81.6Deg value on one of your early diagrams. What's a good assumed min Angle 22Deg? With the 425 horizontals/320 build area example, I assume the 400mm rods have to get longer when you go to the new smaller effector to get a larger build area?

 

All else being somewhat equal - with the more compact effector - whatever you lose on the far end of reach opposite a tower you get back when effector is nearest the tower. So you can still have the same 320mm build area. Early on in my thinking process I went through a bunch of drawing effort to examine the various geometry of rod angles at different build diameters - until finally I decided it looked to be in the right ballpark and I'd shrink or enlarge my build radius value in the config file based on observing it after it's running - with the plan being to keep an eye on the rod angles when nearest and farthest from the towers and just change the build radius to keep those angles >= reasonable minimum values. And of course making sure the fan isn't hitting your belts when nearest the tower .

 

Jerry426, Can you post your Filament Spool Holder stl file? I don't see it in the "Latest Files" list.
Thanks, Digger

 

DiggerJ, no problem - filament reel holder is now in with the other STL files

 

Thanks, trying to get one done for a local maker faire.

 

Have you ever looked at this filament spool holder?

Universal stand-alone filament spool holder (Fully 3D-printable) by CreativeTools

I have been using this design for quite awhile on my prusa i3v & I am now remixing some of the parts into openscad that I need for my Folger Tech Kossel. Here is what it looks like attached to my delta.
Remix of Filament Guide Tube to convert to openscad and make Parametric by GeoDave

 

Jerry426, do you have a source for the 400mm arms? Have almost everything printed.

TIA, Digger

 

I've been ordering then from Barb at DIY 3D Printer Parts Accessories Rostock Printer Delta 3D Printing. Not sure if they're on the regular list of offerings - but I ask for the thick-walled 6mm carbon fiber arm set in 400mm length and been paying $49.95 - because I don't have time to make them and I found their quality to be excellent (including the Traxxas rod ends being very snug - not loose and sloppy).

 

Yep,I deal with them, and will give them a call.
Thanks

 

Hey all,

I've finally found the time to come back and finish this project, life hit me hard there for a bit. I still need to print an enclosure for the panel and power switch, and I'm dialing in the zprobe autocalibration on the smoothieboard. Otherwise it seems to be printing absolutely fantastic, much better than my Rostock Max.

I had quite a few issues though, the first smoothieboard and all three of my external stepper drivers were bad which is a huge hit to my wallet. This means I'm running at 1/16 stepping instead of my 1/32 to 1/128. I still see some of the vertical banding I was getting on the Rostock, but it's much more spread out, and doesn't protrude nearly as far. I'll print with the built in drivers for a bit before I order anther set of the external ones.

This is the best I've printed PETG too, there's almost no stringing and the oozing is limited to the top layers on multiple prints. Here's some pics:




EDIT: I'll upload my models later this evening