Looks like a nice solid build. I like it Purpose of the inner half plate? keeping wheels free of debris?
Trying to reinforce the wheels to keep them from flexing. Because I wanted to support the Y, I couldn't use a full plate on the inside.
okay that makes sense. looking at the one photo I could not tell if it was attached via the wheels or just that spacer.
P_20160729_132842 by P. ry posted Jul 29, 2016 at 7:59 PM P_20160729_132805 by P. ry posted Jul 29, 2016 at 7:59 PM P_20160729_132733 by P. ry posted Jul 29, 2016 at 7:59 PM Nox by P. ry posted Jul 29, 2016 at 7:59 PM
Very cool , I like the cleaver way you are running your belts / motors. I look forward to seeing how it all works out. Thanks for posting.
Very beefy Build @P. ry Looks great! Lots of nice new ideas incorporated here, looking forward to seeing how it works out as well. Keep up the good work
Some updates on the Zed P_20160807_163412 by P. ry posted Aug 7, 2016 at 5:36 PM P_20160807_171823 by P. ry posted Aug 7, 2016 at 5:36 PM
Anyone have any experience with a doubled belt (belt and pinion)? Is the bottom belt glued? Taped? Or just tensioned in the v-slot?
Still tweaking the motor tuning. Currently have the speed set at 12000mm/min and acceleration at 200mm/s*s. Not real sure what i should be striving for here. Any tips or suggestions welcome.
I am experiencing Z-axis tilt. Definite waves with 1 side low when I try to level my spoil board with a 1/2" bit. I am clamping the Bosch Colt like P_20160807_171823 by P. ry posted Aug 7, 2016 at 5:36 PM . I might have to move the clamp all the way to the bottom of the router around the metal band. Has anyone else had this issue?
The trouble with a single clamp on the router, is that it is a potential pivot point. Before you do anything drastic, why not try to utilise those two screw holes at the top of the backing plate, and maybe put a spacer in there, along with a metal pipe clip to capture the top region of the router and hold it steady. At least with that done you will know that if there is any variation at the tip of the bit, it is likely to be twist in the X beam. Gray
Rebuilt the Zed with 8 wheels on the outside of the C-Beam. Got the router trammed. Pretty happy with the level. Now trying to calibrate the X and Y. I am using Mach 3 and the "Set Steps per Unit". I do end up with 2 different values for X and Y. (106.83023 and 106.79239) Using a 22T Pulley and GT3 belts on both axis. (Servo drive double belt style) Shouldn't they be the same theoretically? I am doing a 800mm distance measurement for both. Something still not right. When I cut a 100mm square , I get 96.5## on 1 axis and 99.3### on the other. Suggestions?
Pulley slippage Had the 20mm GT3 but had to bore it out to 8mm for shaft. Not enough bite left to hold set screws consistently. Changed out pulleys to a 40T with an 8mm bore. Finally getting consistent calibration runs. Would have preferred for torque and accuracy to have used a smaller tooth, but this was all I could find in a GT3 w/8mm bore. Did see some plastic ones at SDP/SI GT3 - 25T. May switch out to these if not satisfied with current set. Time to start cutting things!
I'm looking at doing a 1500 x 1500 machine similar to this, but worrying about the twist of the x beam. Does your seem to have noticeable twist? On the OX at 750mm on the x- beam with double 20x60 has a pretty noticeable flex by the time you get to the mill tip.
Twin C-beams bolted together. I have not put a dial to it, but it is rigid. I am sure i have more flex on the Zed, even after rebuilding the Zed with 8 wheels on the outside of the C-beam (Zed).
Noticing an issue in Mach3. When i issue G0 Y100 or even G1 Y100. The DRO shows 99.994. It is consistent on both x & y axis. I have tried changing micro stepping from 3200 to 6400 and still notice exactly the same DRO reading. Is this normal?