Thanx, I'll PM you the details for the config file.

I believe you are thinking of the Chimera, not Cyclops. Apart from removing a heat break and putting a M6 bolt down the intake for the removed heat break I don't see how to use the Cyclops with single filament without molten plastic coming out the wrong way.


Cyclops:


Chimera:

 

Yay!

Yesterday my first successful print came through.
Obviously some more tuning to do with regards to extrusion to get a better finish.

The process 3d printing is hypnotic! I should have shut the thing down and gone to bed, but I couldn't! Was stuck watching

Some observations.. Sorry for the ****** photo. Bad lighting and phone camera.
I set print speed to 20mm/sec in Slic3r for perimeters and infill.
Yet it sped up beyond that when doing the top layers on the areas marked in red. For the top layer the area marked in green was filled running at 20mm/sec but the red area was done way faster. I've been checking the Slic3r settings but I fail to see what setting I could tweak to avoid this.

So much to learn - so little time.

 

Thank you Simon!!! All parts are arrived!! elettronic parts next step

 

Simon, have you considered creating a belt driven extruder for the Indie i2?

 

Look at voron belted extruder.

Also are you planning to share stp or solidowork files?

 

I'm sure it's already been addressed, but where are the various parts for the Indie i2 from emakershop being sourced from now that they've gotten out of other folks kits?

 

Contact Simon(IndieFlow) via PM.

 

Hi Simon.

My build is complete and the machine is running nicely on one extruder. I need to find a replacement bearing for the second extruder, though.. Need to pick it apart and do some measuring

Belted extruder would be nice to lower noise. Mine is creaking alot.

 

What is the length of the extrusions used?

 

Thanks! How I managed to miss the fact that the part list on the assembly diagrams say 623 beats me...

 

Yay for the belt clips on X axis!

Today the grub screws on the motor pulley loosened and the part I was printing went down the drain. Simple to fix, though. Just loosen the clip closest to the pulley, take out the screws holding the stepper to the plastic bracket and fix it. Love the design, Simon!

Oh well, I guess my colleagues can wait one more day before I start peppering them with stuff using my shiny new office catapult... Muhahahaha!

Gotta print stuff, right?

 

where can i download it?

 

There's some STL file that I wanted to incorporate in my 3D printer build using Fusion 360. looks like stl import is a bit wonky. is there a way we can get the STL posted in the form of STEP file? thx

 

Anyone else get one of these beauties assembled and running?

 

Can samebody update partlist links?

Please

 

What physical length of the aluminum profile, do you have for the axes x y and z, please? thank you in advance

 

Where can I find the list of parts for this open source build?

 

Hello Folks! Finally my first build is in a stage where i dare to show it off. Maybe its helpfull for someone else.



I took Simons great idea for the Indie i2 and converted/upscaled it to run 200x200 or even 200x300 sized heated beds. Keeping the Nema 14s and as many parts like Simon designed them as possible. And to me it looks like this will work without any issues.

I'm trying to keep this post updated when i find the time. There's also a - maybe-not-so-usefull - Git Repo.

Issues i ran into so far:

Heated bed carriage / Y-carriage

This so far seems to be the biggest deal. I could not use Simons great carriage so i went for the OpenBuilds mini gantry plate instead and created kind of a mount for the bed. The problem here seems to be the weight then as i (really rarely) get the Y-axis to skip. Tuning arround with the tention of the belt and the current of the motors i slowly can reduce the numbers this issue occures. so this may not even be a real issue. The 0.8A Nema on the y-axis seems to do it's job well on 0.7A. Speeding up bejond 70mm/s lets these small Nemas get quite hot thought. Possible solutions here would be a Nema fan or even upgrading the y-nema to a 1.2A or 1.4A one. I'll keep investigating. Any ideas from you guys?

Motors

Found out that there are many Nema14s beeing on the market. Currently i run the 0.8A ones on all axis and the extruder has be upgraded to a 1.2A one as this motor kept getting really(!) hot. The 1.4A ones change the weight and size of the Nema so i thing there would be the need of an extra mount to keep it stable.
Secondly there's also 2 variants of nema 14's. Mine have little "humps" of 2mm heigth so i had to modify the extruder body slightly. At the moment i'm running it just with a 2mm spacer. Seems to work well.

Heated bed weight

My heatbed construction consists of (from top to bottom) a glass bed, a 3mm aluminum plate, the heating bed itself, then the springloaded spacing system, another carriage plate and finaly the gantry plate. I finally managed to get it as solid as i wanted it and it's running smoothly - just the weight could be an issue (see y-axis skipping).

To be done / Planned

• Implementation of a probing System. I'm printing a mount i designed for the BL-Touch sensor right now. The Hall-o works fine for an end-stop - but as i gained the extra space i may as well use it (ツ)
• Fine-Tuning currents or even upgrading the y-axis motor to a 1.2A one.
• Creating another carriage for the 200x300 bed. As well as a "quick-print" carriage for a 120x120 bed i used in my M3D and gave me brilliant ABS results for small parts.
• Listening to your ideas.
• Being more patient.

Images / Video









Final words

I really like to thank Simon here once again for all his work he had been putting in this as well as for his brilliant and constructive support via mail. I'd also like to thank the OpenBuilds community & you people!

Let there be rock!

 

Here's a question. What if you got rid of the glass and put some pei film on the aluminum. The only disadvantage I can see is if your aluminum isn't very flat. Other wise that's a lot of weight you could eliminate. If you want to keep the glass you could take a hole saw to the aluminum top plate and strategically remove material you could easily cut half the weight without having any structural problems. I'd do similar but maybe less extreme on the lower aluminum plate. Just my 32 cents

 

Thanks for your input here. Actually i thought a bit in this direction too - as this is just in a testing stage and i wanted to be sure about dimensions i came up with this heavy bed. Your solution seems to be the best - removing not needed areas but maintain structure. I just didn't want to use a pre-made y-gantry. Also i was thinking about keeping it kind of modular so - for example - it would be nice to have a "quick release" at some point to quickly change the bed.

And yes, the alloy plates i use aren't exactly flat. Maybe that alone (and removing the glas) will do the trick.

Thanks a lot for your input here

 

Always glad to share my opinion. Looks like this time it was even appreciated haha. It would be really interesting if you weighed the different parts of your bed so that you could post statistics of how much weight total you are able to slim out.