HI Wassim,

I have a few gantry plate sets that are 2" taller. I think much taller than that compromises stability.

They are listed here: stores.ebay.com/chrisclub1

 

Hello, I'm a newbie to the cnc scene, so please bear with me if I ask simpleton questions...

I'm buying in with some parts a former builder has for sale based on the "routy", but am more interested in building the ox...

As none of the rails are in the parts he has, I so no reason to not go forward with the ox...
(he already has the pulley/belts, but not much to lose...)

My question is: would using ball screws be feasible with out major redesign issues?

I am not attempting to build a steel cutting machine, but would like to handle aluminum and copper
(base plates, heat sinks, covers, etc...) and also be precise for pcb board work, and with a laser head,
logo/print board and cover etching...

The ox-metal went with acme threads instead of pulley/belts, would not ball screws work the same while giving more precision and being stiffer?

Am I on the right track or not?

thanx bunches...

william...

 

Good timing.
Easy way to attach ball screws to an OX.

• FK/FF-12 Bearing Blocks (They mount with 4ea M4 screws and nuts)
• Open Builds NEMA 23 Motor Mount Plates (drill or file the four center hole tab-slots to fit the M4 bearing block screws) 2ea per ball screw.
• SFU1605 Ball Screws and Nuts (Length depends on machine axis lengths)
• 1605 Ball Nut Housing

Not a lot to it, except for figuring out the ball screw lengths.

With a little creativity you don’t even need to disassemble anything for a conversion.
Example: Use a 4.2mm drill bit to extend the back two Ball Nut Housing mounting holes so that they pass all the way through the Housings, mount the ball screws and position the housings to where you want to mount them, use the 4.2 mm holes as guides to drill two 4.2mm holes through the axis plates, tap the holes for M5 screws, enlarge the back two 4.2mm Housing holes to ~13/64” and mount to plates with two long M5 screws, ~30 to 40mm depending on whether you counter sink the back of the Housing or just let them hang out all ugly on the slanted surface. Pretty much the same for the X/Z just a bit harder to drill the mounting holes without disassembling anything.

Even though this works I’m only using the FK/FF Bearing Blocks and Open Builds Motor Mount Plates to mount the single X axis ball screw, and making my own mounts with less expensive BK/BF-12 bearing block for the two Y ball screws. I just mounted the one Y-axis to check/verify the measurements before starting on my mounts.

Cheers

 

Here’s a photo of the BK/BF-12 ball screw mounts.



About the ball screw lengths, my long axis screws are 750mm total length, 684mm working (thread) length, mounted in the photo with BK/BF-12 mounts and 6mm standoffs on both ends. The 20x80 rails are 741mm long. I’ll probably end up using no standoffs on the floating ends and longer ones on the fixed ends so that I can use 35mm motor standoffs which I have instead of making 41mm+ standoffs to use with the large coupler in the photo.

The short axis ball screw has a 564mm total length and 500mm working length, and is a good example of why you need to ask how your seller is listing their screw lengths, some use total length others working lengths.

 

PLEASE HELP ME GUYS.
ON THE VANILLA OX (or ooznest.co.uk preferably) with 1000x1000mm makerslide what is the exterior dimensions of the ox? Im building an enclosure before the machine arrives but i need that info.

Can anyone help me? Would be great.

 

hello ..
I have question
I draw a circle like this result.
where my mistake ???
I use a gecko G540
mach3 setting step per 33.37, vel 15000, acc 1000
belt 3mm pitch, pulley 20T

 

I have a similar problem with Mach4, an Ethernet Smooth Stepper and G540, it’s why I’m trying ball screws. I get the same sort of not quite backlash problem and suspect it might be caused by the relatively low belt drive resolution, in the Mach4 manual under Motor Tuning Steps Per Unit it says the following:
“As a rule of thumb an inch machine should have the steps per unit greater than 5000 (200 for MM)”

In Jog Step if you zero the DRO and make ten 0.1mm X+ steps then ten 0.1mm X- steps does the DRO return to 0000 or do you lose a fraction each cycle?

 

Hello,
I want to build a XZ linear motion system with X movement of around 6000 mm and Z movement of 700 mm. Additionally, can the X linear rail be adjustable in steps of 500 mm so that I can have a linear motion on the X-axis from 500 mm to 6000 mm.

Please give me your views.

 

So I’m guessing not and Open Builds Ox router table? 6 meters would be a big Ox! Building something just depends on how much weight you need it to support, you could make the glide rails out of anything from v-slot to angle iron and skateboard wheels. The hard question is the controlling software, although if you only want 50 centimeter increments you could probably just use a simple DIY Robotic Controller.

Photo of the gantry with the FK/FF Bearing Blocks and Open Builds Motor Mount Plates, no redesign necessary.

 

Thank you.
By increments of 500 mm, I meant to ask if I can physically adjust the X-axis length between 500 mm and 6000 mm. In other words, if I want to change the X-axis travel to 4500 mm in future, I want to remove 1500 mm physically on the system. Maybe butt joints on the rail can help this. Please let me know.

The payload will be approx. 3 kg.

Also, will the belt tension be a problem on longer lengths (6000 mm in this case) assuming a belt-pulley mechanism is ideal for this application? Also what do I use for the Z-axis movement of 700 mm?

 

Rack and pinion.

 

Is there any ready system I can use?

 

Thank you. I never even thought of bicycle chain and sprockets. It is a very interesting thought. I will go deeper into it.
Meanwhile if any of you have any thoughts on the adjustable rail system, or have any examples that you can share on double belts/ chain sprockets, it will be really very very helpful. Since I have not dealt with a system like this before, any suggestion/ video/ image would be very beneficial.

Thanks again.

 

It’s a flow indicator and temperature sensor.

 

~$15 if I remember right.

 

Necessary might be stretching it, but it does look cool and was nice to see that it doesn’t take much to keep my spindle at room temp.

 

Hi,
I just finished my OX CNC! and first of all I wanna say thank you to Mark and the community to make this thing possible
My first project is using a pen to test the configuration of the CNC, i have 4 Nema 23, a GT3 6mm Belt, GT3 1/4 20 teeth pulley and an Arduino Clone + a CNC Shield v3.50 with last version of GRBL.
I have see the suggested config of the GRBL settings in the home page of the project, and i have use some of that configuration, this is my config now:

$0=3 (step pulse, usec)
$1=25 (step idle delay, msec)
$2=0 (step port invert mask:00000000)
$3=0 (dir port invert mask:00000000)
$4=0 (step enable invert, bool)
$5=0 (limit pins invert, bool)
$6=0 (probe pin invert, bool)
$10=3 (status report mask:00000011)
$11=0.010 (junction deviation, mm)
$12=0.002 (arc tolerance, mm)
$13=0 (report inches, bool)
$20=0 (soft limits, bool)
$21=0 (hard limits, bool)
$22=0 (homing cycle, bool)
$23=0 (homing dir invert mask:00000000)
$24=25.000 (homing feed, mm/min)
$25=500.000 (homing seek, mm/min)
$26=250 (homing debounce, msec)
$27=1.000 (homing pull-off, mm)
$100=26.670 (x, step/mm)
$101=26.670 (y, step/mm)
$102=200.000 (z, step/mm)
$110=500.000 (x max rate, mm/min)
$111=500.000 (y max rate, mm/min)
$112=500.000 (z max rate, mm/min)
$120=150.000 (x accel, mm/sec^2)
$121=150.000 (y accel, mm/sec^2)
$122=150.000 (z accel, mm/sec^2)
$130=290.000 (x max travel, mm)
$131=290.000 (y max travel, mm)
$132=200.000 (z max travel, mm)

I don't have inserted all the suggested configuration because I haven't understand the purpose of a lot of them. This is the Data sheet of my Nema 23:



If anyone can suggest me some setting i will appreciate. Anyway i'm explain here my problem, this is the svg i tried to draw with Easel:



This is the first result:



As you can see when finished to draw the R of IRON it should go to the top to draw the tie, instead the Z axis go down instead of go up and draw a line until the Tie. I can't understand why.
I have tried to draw it again, with the same setting and this is the result:



as you can see it was a problem again in the written IRON MAN, this time doesn't go down with the Z axis but the letters are not the right shape. Someone can tell me what could be the problem?

I hope someone can help me.

Thank you very much!!!

 

Need little help, ive tried several weeks to get my ox work. Proplem is that i get really rough/jerky movement in low speeds(10-15mm/sec) it sounds and feels like it is fullstepping in low speed, i have it 32th stepping and i am using cnc shield whit drv8825 drivers and estlcam.
I have 24v 10A psu
I did try a4988 drivers but no luck whit those, i also have old server psu that have 18A and up to 60v, i tried from 12v to 36volts but no change in low speeds.

It runs really smooth in high speeds, so if anyone can give any tips to try would be much appreciated.

-Tom

 

Did you try 1/16th or 1/8th stepping?

 

Yes i did and i tried even 1/4th stepping, it gets more jerky at lower steps.
It does that on the y-axis not so much on x-axis.

 

We will need a video What motors are you using?

 

Ill shoot video for you, i am usin 2.8a nema 23.
I did set current limit usin the vref, i think ill try to solder a wire to the drivers to but them to fast decay mode and see if it helps

 

In pololu page it says this:

• Intelligent chopping control that automatically selects the correct current decay mode (fast decay or slow decay)

So that soldered wire wont do anything?
Dont know why are some people soldering that decay wire if it switches automatically to fast decay?