Nice little build.I am sure it will server you well. I would not bother changing it from a belt & pinion drive like you have, you would not see any real measurable difference for this application. Just keep the belts snugged up. DTR has a new diode now that pegs his power meter at 6.8W , but still has another amp of current at that level, so he figures it is closer to 8W, but will not advertise it higher than he can measure. And he has some cheap PWM laser drivers as well now. Since you are running GRBL, you should take a look at a great open source laser CAM software called LaserWeb (GitHub - openhardwarecoza/LaserWeb3: Open Source Laser Cutter / Engraver software. Supports gcode, svg, dxf, stl, png, jpg, bmp) It is very simple to use, is free, and outputs great quality raster engravings, as well as handling vector cutting great as well.

 

Leadscrew probably wouldn't improve resolution by much, try using the Prusa calculator (google it) and you can check different combinations to see the effect they have on resolution.

 

How powerful is this laser? Would it cut 1/8" acrylic sheet?

 

Hey, great build, what did you pay overall now for the whole machine?

 

Excellent. I'm thinking of building one just to cut 216x316x3mm acrylic for build plates for 200x300 print beds for a 3d printer. Maybe later also side panels for a box type printer.

Suggest a change on STL_Y_gantry. With two closed ends, the length of the X rail needs to be exact to prevent any binding on the Y wheels. Suggest closing only one side for the center anchor screw and leaving the other one open and placing a top hole for both for a screw to engage a slide tee nut in the X rail's top slot. That way final positioning on the open one's top screw would be done after the Y axis is assembled.

 

Or, 400 step motors instead of 200?

 

Ah, yes. You're building from top to bottom, letting the Y axis wheels set the width of the Y rails. I was thinking of building from bottom up, where centering the X axis came last.

You win!

 

IN your description you say not to use PLA. Why is that?

 

Degradation from long term exposure to violet/blue light would be my guess.

 

I have a ton of 20X40 extrusion. Is there any chance that someone could modify the 3d printed files to work with 20X40 instead of 20X20? I have no clue how to modify these files.

 

Thank you for the file changes. Much appreciated. I rally need to learn how to do this myself, I just never seem to find the time to sit down and learn. ANy body have a good resource for a total beginner to learn from?

 

Tried printing the cable clips and they are too large to fit into the extrusion.

 

I will post a pic later today.

 

I liked this fitting for use on a 3D printer. But I need it to fit with tension so it stays put. I moved the slot to the other side. I have to compress it with pliers to get it into the slot, but it stays where I position it.



STL HERE

 

Well I feel like a complete idiot. Never realized until I started to assemble the 20X40 extrusion version of this that the wheels used are the mini wheels. Go figure, I have 4 mini wheels and 42 regular size extreme V wheels. So time to order some more mini wheels. And another delay. But I need to wait for some GT2 belt and pulleys to arrive so hopefully the wheels will get here at about the same time. Did place an order with DTR laser shop for a 6.8W diode laser (Diode is actually closer to 8W, he does not have a meter that goes above 6.8, so he won't officially advertise them any higher) I already have one of his PWM drivers and a complete GRBL shield and motor setup so at least everything is now ordered, and will only take about a day to finish the build once everything gets here. In the mean time, I need to decide on final dimensions for the X and Y axis. I was thinking of making the X axis 500mm and the Y axis somewhere between 500mm and 750mm. Advice on build size gladly accepted, having trouble deciding.

 

I will give the smaller clips a try today. I am also going to try my hand at modifying the stls for use with the larger wheels, but then laser cut the modified mounts from 1/4" Acrylic, and see how that goes. Using the 20X40 extrusion, I do not think I need the 3D printed pockets on the Y plates., with 2 screws at each end it should not twist. I also want to make an X axis that would have a small Z slide for mounting a 300W spindle for PCB milling.