You are getting my attention again ... But I'm not certain if I should go with the DW618 for future needs/proofing at a few extra dollars now or if the DW611 will be plenty good for a while. I will probably CNC aluminium and the likes and DW618 sounds like it would be better. I usually overbuild things ...

 

I found that out real quick ... DHL tracking made it quite obvious it was all the same circus act.

The one 'dispatcher' actually openly said the depots are driver operated ... as like maybe in a garage at some guys place doing it in his spare time when he feels like delivering the packages dispatched to him. What a joke, eh ? DHL is supposed to be a world wide quality operation ... I guess not in this neck of the wood.

 

If there is someone out there who would be interested in producing the mounts I will be happy to send them the files for 1/2in thick DWP/DNP611 mounts. My problem Is I don't have a means to drill the mount holes accurately. Is someone out there able to do this?

 

I would have to see the layout of the mounts to know if my mill would do the job.
I believe I have enough 1/2 plate,
I will have to check I'm making a coffee and hitting sketchup to work on some other orders.

 

Adebo is working on a mount for the Dewalt 618 and then we should be able to make that also.

 

Thanks for the link. It is a bit dated, but still of value. Seems like it basically comes down to fact a 1/2" might be better for the long run and for CNC applications. Me thinks I'm leaning towards the DW618 ...

 

First one to make an accurate measurement passes it on to you ... I had a link to Dewalt's somewhat technical exploded view for highlighting replacement parts. I don't think they showed such specs though.

I was thinking of getting the router with the fixed mount and modifying it, at least to get it mounted and start routing/milling ... but if you can get a "perfect" mount at a reasonable price, I might be buying ... I would rather start working wood then jumping right into any metal, even the "soft" aluminium.

 

I'm down towards Windsor.

 

Ok well let me know if ya need any and I can post them for cents, think I have about 6 or so left

 

I was looking at the DeWalt routers too. They look pretty nice and most reviews are pretty good. I see that the 611 has only a 1/4" collet, but the 618 is both 1/4" and 1/2". I don't have much experience using routers in general and no experience using them with a CNC machine, so my question is: For a CNC machine, is it necessary to have a router with a 1/2" collet, or will 1/4" do with the bits that I would expect to be using? I'm not even sure yet what bits I will require. I would like to be able to cut anything from foam to light metal. Thanks!

 

The offer is most appreciated and might come in handy.

I ordered and received the 1/8" spacers mentioned in the parts list which does not lists any 1/4" spacers. So I won't really know until assembly starts. The spacers are used to stand off the steppers, so I will need the later first to be in my hands. They are now scheduled to come in either Tuesday (if I'm really lucky) or probably Wednesday (if the saga does not stretch). We'll have to wait until then to know for sure if the 1/4" are needed.

 

Sounds good, thanks for the replies! I don't plan on taking it off the machine to use for other routing, so I think I'll stick with the 1/4".

 

Hi All

I've been looking at CNC routers for a while and am liking the look of the OX, However I can only find one Australian supplier of the Vslot, and they haven't returned my email from last week asking on an ETA for new stock. Does anyone know if there are there any other sources in Australia besides openlab.com.au? The shipping cost from elsewhere puts the build out of the current budget.

 

I am just over the ditch and expecting a small order of sticks in a few weeks time. I will work out shipping to oz once it is in nz.

If you want something sooner I have one "stock" small ox kit that I could pack down and send your way too.... Either just the vslot sticks or the entire kit.

Fire me a message if you want to chat about options.

 

Hey everyone, just wanted to say thanks for the designs and a quick plug to Chris and Bill (http://www.opensourceluthiersupply.com/) for their great service.

Here is a link to some build photos of my OX CNC if anyone is interested.

http://imgur.com/a/XFQRU#0

 

Hi Chris,

Once I've secured some v-slot I'll be in touch.

I was browsing eBay for cnc routers when I came across your listing, which led me here

 

Hi Duane,
Here is a distributor who had some a couple weeks ago.
"...I am a new distributor for Open build and I have a limited supply of V rail in stock. I am in New York State and I charge the same prices as the Open build store. Check out my website at
www.opensourceluthiersupply.com
Regards Bill Sterling

 

I am getting ready to start this build. I was hoping to make the larger scale version of this. Am I correct in what I will be purchasing on v-rail below (If I am also wanting to run with the built up table as well).

(2) 20x80mm (1500) - Side Rails
(1) 20x80mm (1500) - Center Rail
(2) 20x40mm (1000) - Front + Back Table Support
(2) 20x40mm (1000) - Built up Front + Back (Built Up Tabe Mod)
(2) 20x60mm (1000) - X-Axis
(1) 20x40mm (1000) - Back Brace + Z-Axis

I want to make sure I have all the v-rail covered before I make a purchase. Thanks so much!
Neil

 

No idea how I missed that underside graphic. Thank you so much wish me luck (that is once stock of supplies becomes available lol).

 

Hi all. I'm running a build group at our local maker space with six other participants. We're still waiting on some parts, but I had enough to get my OX mostly completed over the weekend to do some motion tests and thought I'd share.

This is a 750mm x 1000mm outer diameter unit (around 550mm x 750mm x 85mm cutting envelope). I started off with the parts list and video and worked from there, since I can't use sketchup (I don't run Mac or Windows at home), so it may be different in some regards.

My changes addons:

• TinyG for motion control (https://github.com/synthetos/TinyG/wiki)
• Laser-cut acrylic box for TinyG controller
• 425oz 2.8A steppers for X/Y
• Two support rails underneath the bed
• Used two precision shims instead of spacers for the X/Y steppers
• Used eccentrics under the static Z-axis wheels for stability
• Used blue 1/4" G10 for the OX plates
• 24V power supply
• E-stop + spindle power switch controlling an outlet in the back (e-stop mushroom controls all power, switch controls only one of the receptacles)

I've managed to do repeatable 12000mm/min (~475in/min) rapids when testing over the weekend with this setup, although that was without the spindle attached. The spindle is a more recent addition, because I was working on installing a slightly modified version of the Quick-n-dirty spindle holder. I'll probably cut a new one at some point out of UMHW or delrin or something. Until I finish up my Z axis, I can't test with any load on it.

I still have a few things to finish up:

• I don't like the wiring running to the controller and I'm going almost totally redo it.
• My controller housing is my prototype and I found a few issues as I was installing it and wiring things up. I've reworked it and will likely cut out a new one when I get a chance.
• Need to install the bearings, nylon washers and shaft collars for my Z-axis. Just received shaft collars today.
• Will likely attach the table to the under-table supports for more rigidity
• Change all the white tie-wraps to black
• Laser-cut some limit switch plates and attach my home+limit switches
• Possibly add a U-shaped extrusion between the front and back support and some cable chain on one side of the machine to manage the spindle power, controller power and USB cable.

Here's some pics I took last night



Here are a few places where I had issues and how I mitigated them (if applicable):

• The ultra-low profile screws (<2mm tall head) are critical in a couple of spots - bottom holes for Y-axis steppers, ACME nut block, Z-axis spacer blocks, Z-axis wheels. Everywhere else, you could use button-headed cap screws without an issue. The parts store was out of some of the screws and I was placing an order from McMaster anyway, so I thought the button head ones would be good. VERY close, but unfortunately too tall. To keep things moving, I filed the heads down while replacements were being ordered.
• Used eccentrics for the non-adjustable Z-axis wheels. I found my wheels, when tightened properly so they rotated well, still had enough lateral movement that I couldn't adjust the eccentrics enough to account for it. They needed some support closer to the wheel instead of at the head of the screw, so I added the eccentrics - much better. I'll likely disassemble the carriage and drill out the 5mm holes similar to the other side so the screws will be perpendicular. At the moment, the screws are sitting ever-so-slightly cocked upwards due to the eccentric. I'm thinking an additional benefit to having eccentrics on both sides is that it also enables the ability to adjust the Z-axis slightly if it isn't exactly 100% perpendicular to the table for some reason.
• Purchased some 0.375"OD x 0.192" ID x .25" tall nylon spacers to replace the spacers from the wheel kits (http://www.mcmaster.com/#order-history/=s1tx7d, #10 screws), especially for the Y axis rollers, maybe for X, too. They have a 19.2mm - 20.2mm hole whereas my M5 screws measure out to 19.2mm, IIRC. I had a similar problem with the static Y-axis rollers that I had with the Z-axis. They moved up enough so that the eccentrics are adjusted all the way up and are just barely set correctly. I'm hoping that the fact the are larger in diameter and almost exactly the same size as the 5mm bolt, they will move less than with the stock spacers. I just received the new spacers today, so we'll see how my idea works. Alternatively, drilling out the holes and using eccentrics would probably accomplish the goal in a similar fashion to what I did with the Z axis.
• I might purchase some 20x60 to replace the end-support rails. I could then hide the power supply and outlet box under the table, towards the back, reducing the footprint slightly.

 

Hi all,

FYI,

Goodluckbuy sell Aluminium spindle clamps, I've ordered a 65mm item which I will try to adapt onto my machine. They offer a few to suit different diameters.

http://www.goodluckbuy.com/65mm-diameter-spindle-motor-mount-bracket-clamp.html

Cheers
Anthony

 

Finally got my steppers and power supply ! StepperOnline helped from China with the tracking and pushing DHL at this end.

The good news is DHL/Canpar/Loomis are not working out of someone's garage or basement here in town. The bad news, they are working out of an other carrier's garage (warehouse) AND basement ! The guys, and one gal, don't have much for desks, change room, etc. ... just a room in a basement ...

Now I have to build myself an OX. I'll probably end up with a Dewalt DW611M, although the DW618M has more rpm range it weighs twice the little bro and seems to have some issues from what I could read in various forums. For now, it will be the old Dremel just to get things going.

I'll correct a much earlier statement, I don't want to do dust, but chips.

 

what is the cutting area of the larger size?as I need to do this as funds come online,I'd like to get the parts for the Z and the trucks for the gantry,in the parts list which parts would they be?

 

I've been playing with the OX design and came up with a bigger plate to replace the L bracket on the open ends.


I like the idea of a corner bracket, however 1 side of the 2080 is 'trimmed' to get a fit that matches the exact gantry
width, causing a step, meaning a gap between the 2080 and the inside of the bracket. I guess a printed shim would fix it.
I've left the top T-Slot channel clear to allow it to be blown out with some air.


Spoiler board update.

Posted for comment.