can you post a picture of your drivers on your board?

 

Here is a picture of my CNC Shield.
Currently I use the A4988 drivers. When I use the DRV8825 I insert them in the same way as shown in the image.
In addition I add a jumper to set the mode to "1/8 step" again.
The drivers are still getting too hot after like 2 minutes (A4988 with 0,75A).
I ordered a 60x60mm fan that will blow on the drivers.

Somehow the Y-Axis is still making problems.
Will try to create a more detailed video as soon as I know it is not a problem with the drivers / fan.

 

Hi, new builder and new to CNC here. Got the 1500 x 1500 full kit.
It is awesome! I know others have posted about the sound it is making. Maybe once the spoiler board is on there that will help a little.



I have the xPro V2 so under the serial sicker in the back it says slow decay.

Is xPro V2 already set to fast decay?
Thanks for the help. Sorry the video is so long. I was showing my husband that I got it working with a file.
Yes, The wife gets the CNC Router!!!!

 

Hello Ryan and team, i would just like to say i have added an 800w aircooled spindle due to not being able to get different collets cheap enough, and it all works a treat, very accurate cutting for what i need ( signage)

one question where do i up the speed a bit, i use vcarve (its brilliant) and i set the speed in the tool section of the software as well as depth and pass rate, but i don't really notice any difference in speed, my main acrylic bits say they should be run at 21,000 rpm and 1.5m per minute and 3mm depth of cut, but it doesn't seem very fast at all. Is there some other setting i should set in the grbl software. or something

thanks

Alan

 

Not sure if this has been asked yet or if this is the right place to ask.

I am trying to cut 18mm Birch plywood and was wondering what the feed rate and speed should be.


Thanks in advance

Paul

 

Hi Ryan thanks for the reply, sorry fella you heard me wrong the spindle control is fine that's done independently, No its the speed of the stepper motors, that i cant seem to get any quicker, vcarve i assume is sending the speed though on the Gcode but i don't notice any real difference in the speed of the machine.

Alan

 

Finally I found a solution for my problem.
The pulley lost a screw and that was causing the vibrations.
I am cooling the drivers now with a 60x60mm fan. This seems to work.
Applied all the settings and here is a video of sending commands for 10, 50 and 100 steps.
Does this seem to be too slow?



Today I will go and buy an wasteboard and see if I can do the next steps
So excited!

 

By the way.
Is it correct, that with the DRV8825 the motors are constantly under power?
With the A4988 the motors were "loose" when not moving.
With the DRV8825 I can feel power always going through and I cannot move the motors slowly by hand

 

Hey Guys and Gals!

After countless hours and many days of research I finally decided on and placed an order for the Ooznest OX full kit! Super excited to get started on my first CNC build. I ordered the 750mm x 1000mm size.

Just a quick question while I am waiting for delivery. I still haven't decided on a spindle or router yet. Would love to hear what you all are using and pros and cons to router vs spindle on the Ooznest.

I saw this CNC 400W Brushless Spindle Motor ER11 & Mach3 PWM speed controller & Mount + PSU | eBay posted in an earlier post. Anyone using this spindle? I had thought a spindle was going to be out of my budget until I saw this. Thoughts??

Thanks everyone!

Robert

 

Yesterday i was running a test cut on plexiglass, and it was going well, until almost at the end of the cut the X axis started to loose steps (cutting a circle). I thought may be the bit lost its edge a bit and the resistance became to high.
However now i've noticed when i move the carriage on Z axis by hand (completely disconnected) the motion is not smooth, it stops at certain points and i have to push harder to go past the "block". The "blocks" occur at somewhat regular interval - approximately 1.1 of full revolution of the motor shaft.
I did flatten the spoil board before prior to cutting plexiglass and things got quite dusty (Y carriages especially), despite trying to keep it clean with the vacuum. Not sure it this played a role.
Any ideas about those "blocks"?

 

Thanks Ryan, I defiantly do want the ability to cut aluminum so that leaves that one out then. I see a lot of guys using the Dewalt, also looks like you recommend them on your site. I am thinking to just start off with this one DEWALT DWP611PK 1.25 HP Max Torque Variable Speed Compact Router Combo Kit with LED's - Power Routers - Amazon.com and maybe upgrade to a nice spindle later on if needed.

Cheers,

Robert

 

Finally I fixed my issue with the Y-Axis.
Hopefully this is the last video you see, before you see me cutting cool LED stuff .

@Ryan Lock I have all the the settings changed to the settings you posted before. Still cannot (or do not want) to move the motors when on power.
Another strange thing seems to be, that this high pitch noise is only hearable, when all four motors are connected.
Did not hear it when only two were connected.

Anyways:
I had to switch the flexible coupler. Swapped it with a similar one. This seems to be working now.
But it is really hard to move. The motor tries to move it but it is not strong enough (2.5 amps given).
In addition I get this strange clicking sound. Any idea what this is?

Thanks once again for all your great help.
By the way:
Do I need to update the GRBL settings more often? Or is it just initially? To setup the mm/sec for example.

 

Looks like the Bearing and the Lock-Collar made that sound. I just released both completely and the noise is gone.
The problem with the motor not moving properly seems to be the motor itself or the connection.
I just connected the Z-Axis to the X-Port of the controller and it is moving nice and slowly.

Just have to find out now.
At least I know where the problem is.

Oh and concerning the GRBL-Settings...was just wondering if I should develop a small tool to update the settings, but probably not worth it if you just have to set it up once!

//edit:
I connected the Z-Driver to the X-Motor and I got the same strange problem.
So it must be the connection / or the Z-Driver.
Think I can fix it all tomorrow!
Still thanks for your help once again Ryan!

//edit2:

Everything is working now. Now I just got a real big problem :/
I do not know how to connect the Kress. The Ooznest spindle mount uses
71mm but the Kress has 43mm. This seems to be a standard, but all the existing mounts do not fit on the the ooznest machine / existing mount. I do not have access to any tools here and after my research I decided not to go with an 3D-printed mount. Any Idea how I should / could proceed?
Thanks!

//edit3:
Hopefully last update. Just don't want to spam here
Just found this here and ordered it:
43mm Spindle Mount for Stainless OX - makersupplies
Seems to be exactly what I was looking for.
@Ryan Lock this might be something for your shop?
I can imagine that many people are looking for something like this!
Should arrive here this or next week!

 

May i ask what are those connectors you are using on your stepper motors?

 

I think you mean me?
These are the cables that came with the ooznest kit.
Motors : NEMA23 Stepper Motors

 

oh ,well does anyone know what they called? i will need them so i can extend the wires since the stock are too short and would be better to have them disconectable.

 

No i bought my motors from Openbuilds in US and the motors dont have that long cables for the way i am going to build my CNC. just wanted to make the cables deatchable thanks

 

The source of the "block" problem that i had was dust. There were a few speckles of sawdust stuck to the bottom of the X rail, which i could not see, and because they were at roughly regular intervals i thought there might be something in the motor. So that's sorted now.
I have set xPro to fast decay mode, left the default setting of 8 microsteps, and the results are now much better compared to what i had with slow decay mode. Here's a photo of 10mm holes made in a piece of 3mm acrylic:

The circles are not perfect though. I have checked the belts and they are not loose (and not overly tight either). These circles were cut at different feed rates, with 1mm roughing steps and a final cut removing 0.3mm, some of them had a second final cut. It does not appear like feed rate played major role here.
I thought this might be as best results as the belt system can produce, but perhaps things can be improved. Is there anything that can be done to make the circles be closer to a perfect circle? Would a double best system help?
An idea that i had was to use a 16 teeth GT3 pulley, instead of 20 teeth pulley, which in theory should increase accuracy by 20%. Any comments on this?