Anyone have experiance with Hiwin or Noulei Linear rails? I have a slight problem that i cant find any screws that will fit the Rail holes.

I figured i'd use M6 screw to mount the rail to the Extrusion but all M6 screws have 10mm diameter of the head which i didnt think abaut . The rail hole for the Head of the screw is only 9.3mm and the rest of the hole is 6mm which fits the M6 standard screw.

Anyone know where to get a screw with 9mm head and M6 thread?

 

What series rails? Might help shed some light on the issue if we know the specifics.

 

2pcs HGR20 500mm Linear Rail with 4pcs HGW20CA Guide Block Noulei Brand | eBay
Thisone

 

Hiwin HGR20 series rails take 5mm bolts. See page 13 of the PDF linked below. Torque spec is on page 15

http://motioncontrolsystems.hiwin.com/Asset/HG-Series-Catalog.pdf

 

oh thanks ,i was thinking more that if the hole is 6mm it should have M6 screw. I was worried that M5 screw would leave too much play in all directions .

I'll just use M5 screw then i guess.

 

Yes, it cuts it by 50%. Its built with scarp wood, itwould work even better if I had not done three sides with plexiglas.

 

hi, i just have a question for the machine. you cutting plate is glue to the bed. on the final cut, the spindle will touch the cut out object and may cause the object to jump out the bed. how do you solve this problem?

 

Usually, you'd leave small 'tabs' between the stock and the piece which you can remove with a knife or saw once the job's completed. I suspect that most CAM software will support these (I know that SketchUCam and Fusion 360 do).

Cheers, Ross.

 

Anyone can tell me if xPro v2 can run with DQ542MA Stepper Motor Driver so i can use High Torque motors?

 

Another question abaut the DQ542MA driver. i see it can run from 18V to 50V would it per say run better at 50V then at 24V? or its not that important?

 

Just made my first run on my newly assembled machine and was surprise to see how much flex is in the bed/build plate. I was doing a drilling run and towards the outside edge of bed was getting a good 1/8 inch vertical movement each time the bit would plunge. Is there a stiffing mod anyone has come up with or is this just limitation of the build? Hoping its just on a plunge and not while doing a profile cut going out that far.

 

Cookie Cutters for a wedding, 1/4 inch aluminum.

 

I had posted a video of my outrigger mod, you may have remembered this...

 

Ever cut out a great looking part and then find a major flaw! Forgot to flip the letters, so this mold just became a practice peace.

 

Does anyone know if this build is strong enough to to handle a 800-1200w spindle ? I'm looking to. If a spindle that I can use in a larger machine later. Possibly a mechmate style/size.

Thanks.

 

just another question about the part sit on the table, what double size tape are you using?

 

Here is another mold. Made some keychains with the logo for my kids business. I used a cheap $5 cutting board (back), then made a rubber mold of it (center). I wanted to try adding glitter to a clear epoxy, but added a bit to much. However, I got a very clean mold and the keychains required no cleanup.

 

I received a shipment of 20x60 extrusion a few weeks ago for my c beam build. Today I noticed that one of the extrusions is twisted by about 1.5 mm or .056". Is there any way to correct this without returning the piece and without damaging the extrusion? Id like to try to use it, but I'm fairly certain that in its current state it will cause problems with the build. Could this be cut in half and safely used as the 250mm upright gantry supports? I'm thinking that Bolting them in an L shape may correct the flexion of the extrusion. Does anyone have any experience with this or have any suggestions. Thanks.

 

I saw a video the other day on open builds where someone used CA glue and painters tape to hold parts down effectively. I think it was from David the Swarther if I'm not mistaken. This may prove to be a better solution than double sided tape in some instances. Forgive me, I can't find the link, maybe someone else knows where it is.

 

I have used this painters tape and CA technique very successfully 3 times now. It works very well but like all tools in your bag it has some limitations. In my case I was cutting 1"x2" parts from an .032 aluminum sheet. I did not have tabs in the cut. I failed to have enough tape on the back of these parts individually that was also CA'd to the tape secured to the table. All and all I like it and can see using it a lot.

 

What brand/type of tape did you use? I tried cutting some 1/4" 6061 the other day and just made scrap and broken endmills because the tape allowed the workpiece to squirm ever so slightly.

 

Mike, I'm not a CNC expert, but you may want to use a sturdy clamping system for 1/4" Aluminum, and add some tabs into your gcode. There's a significant transfer of energy milling ferrous and nonferrous metals. Bruce stated he used .032 aluminum sheet. This is about 8 times thinner than .25 Alum. Thicker aluminum needs to be clamped down securely to reduce vibrations in the milling process.





And bruce, I believe painters tape comes in a 4" thick roll. This may help you with your taping needs