Kyo,
Now that your machine is finished and in use, I was wondering what your actual, usable cutting area turned out to be?

 

Kyo, Got my parts and starting assembly on the x/z axis. I'm having a problem on the step to join the x axis carriage to the z axis assembly. I'm unable to get the 12 m5-10mm bolts to engage with the tee nuts. It seems they are just 2mm too short. the 15mm bolts are too long. I'm sure it's just me and my fat fingers but..... If you have some words of wisdom I would sure appreciate it. Also do you have a source for the gt3 closed loop belt for the z axis reduction? I've mounted mine directly for now, but would like to mount the other way.

 

I had a similar issue with the T-nuts I had here, spinning them round so that the pertrusion goes into the slot worked for me. Check to make sure that when tightened that they do not bind.

 

Kyo, Beardyblair, I worked on this for about 4 hours. I tried to engage the tee nuts by one thread and slide the x carriage onto the z but no luck, too tight plus the nuts kept falling off. I finally flipped them over and managed to slip the x axis carriage onto the z. They seem to not interfere with anything and tightened up well. Even if I could of gotten it on the other way there would only have been 1 or 2 threads holding it. I think either a m5 12 screw or perhaps the holes counter bored a mill or 2 would make this easier. Thanks to both of you for your quick responses. I'm really having a blast getting to this build.

 

This forum and its members have been a great help for me too.

As an extra precaution I always threadlock T-nuts as they can back off over time due to vibrations.

 

Is the Fusion 360 and DXF files "up to date" with the dual backlash nuts issue fixed? Great build and tutorial by the way

 

NEMA 23 Reduction / Stand Off Plate for solidworks

 

Another kudos for me for the great tutorial and build. I am amazed by the level of prescision and details in your build manual.

Im also on the sourcing, cutting costs department, as the whole build goes very quickly outside of my confort zone.

Using normal T-slots vs V-slots for the structural parts reduces the cost (at least here in germany where I live). C-beams and V-slots will be used for all the linear movement of course. As I get it they are interchangable.

I can also find the screw significantly cheaper, but only on the TR8-1,5 pitch and TR10-2pitch (in motedis). I get that the first one means a "slower" machine (no biggie) , the second one a sturdier if you go to lengths of nearly 1m. But the second option involves different bearings as far as I can tell (do those bearings to the "regular" plates, or do they also need redesigning?)

another cost concern is the nice anti-backlash nut. In the BOM it says 7 are needed so we are on the 80euro category just for the nuts. I have seen somebody constructing them from scratch using a (teflon?) piece, so thats probably the way to go for us cheap bastards. I suppose they cannot 3d printed. But I have a stupid question. As the anti-backlash nut creates tension to keep the threads of the screw constantly on the edges, why do we need two of them on every screw. The way I get it, one would be enough.


thank you again and the wonderfull community

 

What is the build area with the included dimensions in the Cutlist/BOM?

 

I am very excited with my upgrade. Check out my pics. It's coming together very nice

 

@Kyo of course, you can find "thinner" bearings to match the outer diameter. Elementary dear waste (thanks sherlock) The video of savas is beautifully made. So one anti-backlash nut per axis is fine. thanks for confirming.

Im already starting to salivate on the prospect of this machine (i ll notify my friends to start get going, because Im getting itchy).

 

Hey!
I cant open the file. Error of some kind. Do you have a pdf with dimensions? Looking for distance c/c.

 

Really nice build. I am planning my first CNC build and I do have a few question about the design if you don't mind.

1. Why did you use two instead of just one anti-backlash nut per acme rod?
2. I don't see a way of adjusting the anti-backlash nuts (or even the inner wheels) without disassembling. Isn't that a problem?
3. Wouldn't it be much more stable to have wheels running under the C-Beam instead of inside?
4. Why did you go for the massive frame? In contrast the R7 is only bolted to the table.
5. Having the z-motor on the back (as opposed to being on the top) is nice - but doesn't the belt have drawbacks?
6. What thickness of the plates would you suggests. If they are done in aluminium or steel.
7. Why did you go for two y-motors on the sides instead of one in the middle?
8. Is there something else you would change/improve for a build as large as 1000x750mm?

cheers,
Torsten

 

Hey Kyo, thanks for the quick response! Awesome

2A: How often do you have to adjust the anti-backlash nuts or even the wheels?
5A: Oh, so you actually changed the z mounting for the ratio reduction (I thought it was mainly for changing the balance point)? Did you need more resolution on that axis?
6A: The 1/4" (6.35mm) is aluminium I assume? I found someone offering the plates in 3mm 304 stainless steel but I don't have a feeling for whether that's good enough/comparable or even better.
7A: I guess two separate endstops should take of that when homing but... have you ever run into trouble with one of the stepper losing steps and then being off square?
8A: I guess one could just copy the idea of the R7. They have little triangles cut out for access. Not sure how this fits with the current plate layout though.

Thanks!

 

Kyo, I tried importing one of DWGs into SLWKs something funky.. Thoughts?
Regards K

 

I am measuring in mm. DWG/DXF should not care, its was universal till AutoDesk got a hold of it LeL. Check to see if your settings in Fusion 360, are they 1:1 export / output. SWKS has removed a DXF export for single parts without making a actual drawing, last year!!!! I have been having this problem also with my subcontractors. I alway add a check dimension, since it always seems to import incorrectly. In the last few years it has gotten MUCH worse. Not as UNIVERSAL as we have been told, STEP or IGES.......IMHO are more universal cross platform.
Make er work

 

Thanks for all the info again, @Kyo

Sure - then let me ask this way. How often do you have to adjust them?
I bet I will using my CNC less. Just to give a feeling for it.

Talking about the bolds: The M5x27mm seem really hard to find - or is that just me?
M5x25mm or M5x30mm would be much easier to source.

I am also wondering about the countersinks in the plates. Why not just drill/mill holes? For the bearing you have the flange.
That way the plates would be much simpler and could also be e.g. laser cut instead of milled.

 

Buy M5x30 and cut off the 3mm dont thin there is actualy a 27mm buyable screw.

 

Really liking this design and build log/manual.

Been looking at building a router on & off for several years, couldn't justify the cost of linear rails and ballscrews but was not keen on the belt drive yours fits nicely between the two.

Ordered a load of parts from ooznest and should be able to get the plates cut tomorrow, I have altered the plates to be waterjet cut and use f608 bearings.

Will need some advice on control system later.

Again nice work.

 

Just wondering - why did you switch the bearings from f688 to f608?

 

Just because I had them left over from a printer build.

 

As for the side plates I was wondering: Shouldn't the spindle be more towards the middle of the wheels to improve the balance point? Did anyone do the math for that?

 

Interesting. I would probably rather cut joints along the y-axis (for me on 1000x750 machine the longer side). That would not need a change in the design - just a table built for it. That said - finger joints are pretty easy to do on a router table with a jig. So I am not even sure that's worth the hassle