David the swarfer submitted a new resource: Holding parts on the CNC router - No, not double sided tape Read more about this resource...
Saw this video before. Easier to do it this way with one change...do not glue the layes of masking tape together, use a high quality double sided carpet tape (Not the stuff you get at a big box reno strore, you need to go to a high end carpet and flooring store to get it.) It has never been that the adhgesive is not stron enough, it has been that the spoilerboard and work piece where never truly on the same palne, there are minor imperfections. The 3 layers of tape now make up for imperfections and get 100% ahesive contact across the entire area. Hope this makes sense. (I was doing that 30 years ago on my first CNC router that my father and I built for our manufacturing facility (clocks) THat machine cost us $75,000 tobuild and had dual slaved work areas with 10HP perske spindles using a 14" X 25" work area (DUal areas as well, so I could cut 2 pcs at a time. Evey thing ran on 1.5" ball screws with extreme high torque Nema 42 motors with Pacific Scientific driver packs. I sure miss those Perske spindles.
How hard is it to remove the tape residue from the carpet tape? I looked at this tutorial and liked it due to the fact masking tape comes of relatively clean. But if the other adhesive comes off easily, I may give that a shot, too. That 2P-10 is fairly pricey.
You don't need 2p-10. Any medium CA glue and activator will work. Rockler sells a version of it that's inexpensive and lasts a very long time. Just remember to store it in the freezer if you're not going to use it in a few months time once opened. That will extend the shelf life. (Not the activator, just the glue) CA Glue cures through absorbsion of moisture from the atmosphere. The cold air of the freezer slows down this process. Quick-Set Glue-2.5 oz | Rockler Woodworking and Hardware Side note: removing carpet tape residue is a PITA. I use this tape for pattern routing with a flush trim bit and it holds adequately. Sometimes too well and I end up picking the tape off with the tip of a razor. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UI47HNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_I3oBybAR3GWPS
The price of the Rockler 2.5oz is good, you can get smaller bottles at any hobby shop, usually Bob Smith brand (the hobby shop re-label) or Zap (more expensive) both have their kickers.. for Kicker (activator) you can just use a fine mist of water, but the activator works faster and you don't want to spray water on some things! Homedepot has Gorilla branded CA glue which is good stuff, med viscosity but $$ for 20g and they don't have kicker that I have seen. I'm a lifelong RC airplane guy, i can talk glue for hours... should be a T-Shirt
Water does not make a great activator for wood projects that require precision(like a cnc spoil board) as water causes wood and wood products(like Mdf) to swell. The activator does not cause swelling in the wood fibers and evaporates quickly. The fumes on the other hand are horrific and should be used in a well ventilated area with no immediate ignition sources. ( it has an acetone base if I'm not mistaken) I throw on my respirator with Organic vapor cartridge, nitrile gloves, and a pair of splash goggles.
Tried this with some 1/4" thick 6061 aluminum the other day and unfortunately wasn't successful. The workpiece never let go, but the two layers of tape adhesive allowed the workpiece to squirm slightly during the cut. I quit messing with it after I made three pieces of scrap and ultimately snapped an endmill. I've cut a fair bit of 6061, had no troubles like this in the past. Certainly, I am still on the steepest part of the learning curve, so I'm all ears if anyone has suggestions. I used a new roll of 3M blue masking tape, not the cheapest one on the shelf at Home Depot, but not the most expensive option either. I burnished it down on a smooth section of the spoilboard and a clean workpiece, and used some CA and activator. The CA held just fine, but it seemed like the tape adhesive got soft when the workpiece warmed up during the cut. I do like the idea, and I'll try it again with some different tape and a cheaper endmill when I have time for a science project. Since I needed to cut some parts, I am back to using screws for now. I guess the take home message here is that the 3M Blue masking tape I tried didn't work when I tried it on aluminum.
Being a carpenter for over 20 years, I've been exposed to more chemicals and carcinogenic dust on a daily basis than a California Lab Monkey. If I lose my eyes, hands, or lungs I'm out of a job. While wearing my excessive PPE I've avoided death or serious injury many times. Flying shrapnel, exploding cans, the 3/4" stainless bolt that was manufactured inside a sheet of CDX and became a bullet when I hit it with my saw, the can of oil based stain I took a bath in when the neighbor's dog knocked it over. Do I look funny wearing a respirator, earmuffs, a kevlar apron, and splash goggles?. .....Yep. Do I Care? .... Nope. A little inconvenience lets me keep more body parts and stay healthy. Maybe when I'mm over 70 I won't care so much haha.