One thing working with the printer while waiting for the issues to be patched, I have double faced tape for carpet that works well for replacing the glue. A full covered build plate will hold anything you print, but is hard to remove the part afterwards. I then cut strips and put the strips down alternating blank space between strips and it works great. If you don't mind a stripe pattern on the face of your part, it is a very good replacement for the glue. An easier way to get the strips is use the tape they make for weatherproofing windows with plastic film you shrink with a hair dryer. I have printed several parts with the same tape, just use the un-taped gap to pry under and remove your part. I got my carpet tape from the dollar store, but to skip the cutting into strips you can use this stuff:
Okay, one more contribution... http://file.cubify.com/Download/cube-firmware That will get the download of 1.14B started.
I just purchased enough glue to last me quite some time. And not from 3D Systems who wanted to charge me $5 shipping for EACH BOTTLE! Yes, 3D Systems still has a lot to learn about manufacturing, service, and support for us, the weary ones. Anyone have a clue as to what they are using? I thinking it is some sort of rice-like "paste". Cooked rice film and rice paper act very much like the glue does. Overall, properly applied, the glue does it's job and provides a reasonable surface upon completion. Probably the only thing I would consider better would be a double sticky tape with the hold of Post-It notes. Then you don't peel the print from the plate, you peel the film from the plate, and pull the film from the part. Another sticky that will go a long ways, and even have some compliance is Car Trim Tape. It is a self-supporting glue. And it stinks!
Sorry for this way late post. I -finally- took my white printer apart to clone the SD. Okay, just copied, but yes, done. The 4 screws you see directly in the cartridge area do not need to be removed. They just hold the trash bins covers in place. Remove printer from service Turn the printer upside-down Wedge out the black pin in the center of the 2 front rubber feet (small screwdriver, the foot will flex out of the way) Remove both front feet from the printer Remove the 2 screws next to the feet (2mm hex wrench) Turn the printer on its side Remove the 2 screws perpendicular to the front face (hidden in a pocket, don't loose the washer, use a short Philips head screwdriver) Turn the printer on the other side Remove same 2 screws (same) Unlatch the two clear plastic clips (view and access from within the normal open area of the printer in the upper corners) Lay the printer on its back Carefully tip the bottom of the printer front face upward until you can see the one wire connecting the front panel hardware to the motherboard. Disconnect the wire from the motherboard Set the front panel to the side Re-assembly is the exact reverse. No reason to stop here, but this is the minimal effort required to get to the SD or the motherboard.
Anyone try the FoxSmart filament yet? FoxSmart™ Premium 3D Printer Filament - PLA ABS Wood TPU 1.75mm
Regarding glue and filament I am still using stock cartridges, I put them in my food dehydrator for a day or so and pack them in a Gallon zip-lock, with re-dried desiccant, when not in use, I think the PLA is not as brittle that way...and I sorta reuse the glue, I use the "inertial method" for print removal, IE: I put some lateral force on the model and Wack the base of the model with the metal side of the putty knife,, the glue doesn't hold up to shock as well as steady pull. but the trick I use for glue renewal is a flat 2-1/2" square ALUMINUM CPU heat sink with the flat side covered with a soaking wet piece of Micro fiber lens cloth pulled tight . (not the 1/8th inch thick Fluffy Stuff)! I use it kinda like a plane to cut the High points and fill the voids, if it gets too tacky before I'm done, I'll add a few more drops of water. that way I generally have a fairly smooth build plate. then when the glue seems too thin or I need a more solid foot print, I will put a layer of New glue down. It works for me, but I'm cheap and lazy! lol Jim
I used a similar process, just not as polished as yours, but ran out of the 1 bottle I had, glad to see someone as frugal and time-conservative as I.
So what is the reasonable usable lifespan for fresh PLA filament? I just received 2 new cartridges from B&H at full price (color choices) One is from early '15 and the other was late '16. The stock is completely upside down by now.
My thought is, filament is like Twinkies. As long as it stay airtight and moisture free, there is no reason it shouldn't last years. With that being said, all filaments are not created equal. I used a few brand new rolls from 2012/13 recently that I had forgotten about and they worked fine.
That logic definitely does NOT apply to 3D System's filament. I think over 1/2 the filament provided with the printers had a break or two in them somewhere (small brittle section), while others were so bad that they simply clogged over and over and made very "thin" prints with lots of "skippering"... yes, just made that up... but it is that bridge railing look when the printer is thinking about clogging. I have an 80% spool and the filament isn't worth running. This was from a '15 batch, and it was sealed with desiccant. Oh, the Twinkies part(?)... that does apply to 3D Systems in quite a number of ways.
Haha. The 3D Systems filament is not "airtight" like they claim. A few carts I bought had holes in the bag. I was referring to rolls of filament, not the cartridges. I think the cart filament is cursed even before it get sealed in the bag.
This thread seems to be a collection of hijacking, and I'm hopeful this question will find the right destination. I've downloaded the toolbox and the firmware file. I've been able to perform the patch without problem, but have not yet done the firmware install on the printer. A couple of questions. I have already on the machine v1.14b. Will the flash drive with the patched firmware with the same name be accepted and flashed? I've noted the message posted that says this patch will not work with a 100% cartridge. What happens when/if the cartridge is inserted in the machine using the patched firmware? Logic suggests that to load a 100% cartridge, one would insert a flash drive with the factory original firmware and use a bit of the cartridge, then reflash to the modified firmware. Is that the best route so far? Thanks for all the work in turning this near-paperweight into a mostly useful printer again. fred
Or... Swap out an older case to the new cartridge. (or even the chip alone). or... solder a chip into the machine (switch hack) or... if you happened to have more than one printer, use the second to initialize and then move it to your hacked printer or... Give the genius a couple more minutes to find the required patch I did look into SD Extension Cables on eBay... $2- solution for the time being. You probably have a 4gb slow MicroSD laying around. ...Your drone/copter most likely?
The only important part of SD card is cfg.bin file, containing Printer Serial Number (and maybe something else) There is also wpr.bin, I still don't know the purpose of this file. The rest is restored from the firmware, during firmware upgrade/downgrade. It is worthless to backup the SD Card except saving those 2 files just in case, firmware is not stored there. Swapping SD cards will not change the firmware in the printer. Only upgrade/downgrade does.
No probs! So, firmware is extracted to the SD Card, including Language packs dir, Image695.hex and bootloaders. Then Image695.hex is written to PIC32 flash memory and the files are deleted from SD Card. That's it
BTW Ive never tried Cube3 glue. Just used hairspray from day 0 and works like a charm! Just use the strongest you can find in your area and it should work.
Geezer, I wouldn't go so far as to say Yes is the best answer for number 3. There are many ways as Tom has mentioned.
May have better luck looking into this firmware for an older cube printer, it has the same mycroft password, as well as using the same chip to protect the cartridges, but seems to be documented in the code, including callouts to .c files and more ascii labels in the code.
I don't think it will help you, I'm pretty sure the brands over here are not over there heh you may need to test a few until find the most suitable, some are stronger than others even if they say the opposite on the can.
Maybe its cheaper to just stick with the glue for now I don't use hair spray and neither does my wife. I'll have to start asking people with obvious grooming issues.
Well hairspray here goes for $2.50 or so for 600ml How much glue comes in the 3ds tube? and they sell it for.... $19? lol
