Gary Caruso published a new build:

Read more about this build...

 

Thanks Mary, I have to figure out how to get the the MDF home my "go to" doesn't have a pickup anymore!
Hopefully soon I will have the extrusions and really get somewhere on this build.

 

Yes i know all about the cut service , but they don't have 1/2" MDF in full sheets for some reason (they used to)!? there is a plywood and hardwood dealer nearby just have to make arrangements, I want to get a few sheets of 5x5 Baltic birch anyway.
Meanwhile with all the time waiting i dismantled my old craftsman tablesaw, cleaned and Teflon spayed the trunnions, now it moves smooth! Took the old feet that didn't adjust anymore off and added 3/4" thick nylon block feet, cleaned and waxed the iron top... got to keep busy

Oh the white mess in the saw is Teflon overspray

unrelated and out of order...
I bought a $20 aluminum cutting blade for cutting the extrusions, real happy with it, I tried it out the other day on some 1/8", cuts real smooth.. once i get the good Baltic ply I'm going to make a nice tablesaw sled to help make the 2080 cuts.
Concord Blades ACB1000T100HP 10-Inch 100 Teeth TCT Non-Ferrous Metal Saw Blade - - Amazon.com

 

Sure could use particle board, might have to consider that
for sealing the MDF torsion box i planed on thinned out oil polyurethane, or could probably use shellac (alcohol base).

The Wood whisper guy on youtube used poly on his mdf torsion box

 

question about Double belts, anybody try gluing down the static belt (bottom belt)?
This rubberized CA glue bonds to the belt and aluminum very well and should have less wiggle than any tape could hope for.
the only issue i can see is that the glue would have practically no thickness, is the thickness of the tape needed?
I know people are using the thinnest double sided tape they can find but it still adds some measurable thickness.

 

Martin Barfoed is like the guru of doublebelts as far as i know with several youtube videos about it.


Rick, Thanks, i was wondering about the need for the 45mil thickness.
as for the need to do this, i'm not totally sure either, I had a 1000mm X-carve which uses gt2 belt (much thinner and weaker belt) and didn't have any problems with it.
I think once you find the sweet spot for tension and depth of cut the gt3 should be fine on its own, but i wanted to try DBing it

 

I just re-watched Martins video above, he said the 1mm vhu tape is too thick (1mm is about 39mil) and the tape he now uses is "very thin"?
Many people seem to be using this but the info is contradictory, might be due to tolerance being different from V-rail and wheels, some may need 1mm some may need zero additional thickness.
Either way i have a winner for adhesion, I just tried pealing the rest of the glue sample i had off, takes a lot of force and it destroys the belt. you can see in the pic where i stopped after 2 hour cure and the next section where it was 24+ hours cure. Fyi i wiped the surface of the aluminum and the belt with acetone before gluing.

 

Is it cool that I keep updating the build as I go?
Seems like many people upload the whole thing when finished, but this is going to take a while and I wanted to keep posting things in chunks.
Not sure if the constant publishing is annoying?
BTW, Baltic Birch Ply

 

Thanks guys guess I will carry on then.
Had to take a bunch of pics before it gets closed up!

 

Thanks, Me too!
very productive day today.. more details go into the "build" than I'll put here.
Got the first and second coat of shellac on the top of the t-box, feels great, very smooth. Shellac wont protect as well as varnish which I wanted to do, but it's cold out (and snowing) and didn't want to stink up the house with the family home. Not a huge deal as there will be a couple hundred holes in this anyway once i get the machine built to make the vacuum feature work.

 

LOL, yeah lots of hard water around here too..
I have an issue with the build where I uploaded some pics and must not have hit the thumbnail button like i usually do, and now they are "attached files" at the bottom of my build that i can't move or delete. Cound one of you moderators help me out on that? thanks
Gary

 

Finally ordered the V-rails and screws, next weekend I'll be doing things that look like an Ox!
All I have left to order is the stepper drivers, PSU, and drag chain..

Oh been learning fusion 360.. wow my brain hurts

 

found a new use for Xtreme wheels, balance the HF dust impeller, added two 10mm button head M5 bolts and nuts to balance

 

Hey guys and gals, big day yesterday! got the v-rail in and got to building! build page updated.

Question, what size cable chain should i order? I plan on doing full chain so i will need an x and y chain, I know the Y will need to be a bit bigger. is 10x15mm enough?
The X-carve chain was perfect, but i can't find what size the chains were (i don't have it anymore).

 

thanks for the link, that stuff looks good, i like the (semi) closed type

 

Been thinking a lot about what i was going to use for the vacuum table (to make the vacuum).
I think my big Ridgid shop vac is on its last leg, and it's so loud! and the HF dust collector is not great at static pressure and it will be used for the dust pickup head on the OX router.
Then i remembered we have our old canister vac for the house sitting on a shelf not being used... I figured i would be able to cut and cobble something rough but functional with some work.
So i opened it up and found that the motor impeller one part assembly is perfect for this! these things create a huge amount of static pressure and are cheap as heck on ebay, i found a bunch for $25 so if i burn this one up a used replacement or even new for $50 is easy to find. Only thing i will need to do is build a small MDF box for it and put a PC fan in it with in and out cutouts to keep the motor cool. the box will help with the noise too, these things scream!
the box will just mount right to the bottom of my torsion box table with the impeller opening over a 1.5" hole in the table to pull the vacuum for holding lightweight materials like balsa and foamboard. the fan housing is only 5.625" Dia motor and all 4.18" tall.

 

Updated the build, as always scroll to the bottom to find the latest update

 

Spent the last two night getting the hall effect home switches to work.. and now they work, but I'm really questioning why I bothered. Typical i place material on the table somewhat randomly to even out machine wear depending on size, and disarm $X (unlock UGS) then move the bit to lower left corner of the material touch off in the Z and then "reset zero" then start the cut.. at no point does a home sequence really help me. Am i missing out on something? Could have used the last two days making the dust collection attachment sorry for the rant