I haven't. I haven't really thought about building more than the one or two units for myself.

 

So, it only took them 3 weeks but I have a valid tracking number for the LCDs. Now we play the waiting game while the package is in shipping limbo.

 

At least DHL is fast. Got notification this morning that they should be here on Monday.

 

Yay! Everything showed up yesterday, and in one piece! They were even nice enough to throw in two HDMI cables and two USB cables.

@Nomis, I think you will be ok ordering from these guys. They did a good job packaging everything, and once the confusion about the first shipment was sorted out, they got it out pretty quick.

Going to try to fire them up tonight.

 

It will work. You will have to find out how each section is wired. You will need to find out how many LEDs are in series, and how many of those series strings are in parallel. This will determine the driver you will need. It's highly unlikely that each side will have all 24 LEDs in series.

 

So far so good





Both were detected flawlessly by Windows 10 on the Intel NUC I have. What impressed me was that it was running the 2k screens as well as the 4k screen I have too. Didn't bat an eye.

I will work on getting NanoDLP on a Raspberry Pi here soon so that I can make sure that there are no issues moving forward.

 

Cool. That printer is going to sell like crazy. My ONO printer should be shipping soon.

 

That's a little unusual. Typically, something like this would be broken up into shorter series strings with more of them in parallel (like 2 parallel strings of 12, 3 parallel strings of 8, 4 parallel strings of 6), as lower voltage, higher current drivers are far more common.

With 24 LED at an average of 3.2v per LED at 350mA (fairly common for cheaper Chinese LEDs), you would need an LED driver with a max voltage of about 77v. With both sides of the board put in parallel, you would need a driver capable of 700mA. One option that would work is the Meanwell HLG-60H-C700B. Runs about $31 here in the US, and is dimmable (a 100K linear potentiometer across the dim wires will work great).

There are other options out there, but Meanwell has a good reputation.

 

Other than powering them up, I haven't done anything more with them. I'm a little strapped for time right now, as we are getting our house ready for sale (it always seems like free time to tinker is always just out of reach)

What I haven't told you guys is that I bought a selection of UV/violet 30W LEDs to play with (375nm, 385nm, 395nm, and 405nm). I plan on recreating a similar setup to the Wanhao D7 to see how much light actually makes it through the LCD at different wavelengths. I'm pretty sure that the UV LEDs will have most of their light blocked, but it will be fun to see by how much. This will be a fun experiment with the Makerjuice G+.

 

Same power as the LED in the Wanhao D7, which is why I picked it. I was tempted to pick up the 50W versions too, but they were a lot more expensive.

 

No progress. I was sick at the beginning of the week, and now I'm out of town on business through Friday. Also, selling the house is putting a damper on tinkering. Once I'm in the new house it's full steam ahead (until the honey-do list appears for the new place)

 

Ask away. We are all figuring this out as we go along. My progress may be slow, but I'm researching all the time.

 

I don't think that you can get UV EL panels, but even if you could, the intensity is too low. You would have better luck with the stock backlight for the LCD.