what I mostly do is just screw the piece down to the spoiler board with drywall screws. simple cheap and easy....
Bob

 

Have you tried cutting aluminum on this? I have an XL as well but am having some issues and wanted to get others opinions as well as feeds and speeds.

 

I do have some scoring along the inner edges of the wheels but that is merely the bearing point of the V slot on the wheel. I wouldn't say they are cracks, so perhaps you are seeing something different than I am. I just had all three axes off the machine today as they seem to be coming loose when I run, but I think that was partially a controller issue with driving the steppers I have since resolved and a few times of overshooting the travel (I have the end stops but haven't wired them in yet) . I think slowing it down is the way to go as the overall stiffness of the XL may not be ideally suited to aluminum as say the standard C Beam Machine. This also means I will likely pursue a stiffening campaign after this Delta 3D printer job I am trying to cut.

-PhotoSgt85

 

Hello James,

I am building a 3D printer using C-beam linear actuators. I also have a side-to-side play at the interface between the acme screws and the bearings. Is the plumber's tape trick still holding and working ? Or has it worn out over time ?

Very nice build by the way ! I will probably do the same "electronic box" as you, i find it very clean !

Thank you !
Jacques

 

Do you think using longer C-beam to get more than a 13" wide cut area is feasible?

I'm needing to extend it at least 2 inches but if it's no issue I would extend it to 24" so I could load and cut 24"x24" pieces

Thanks

 

CBeam XL is something like 28 in wide. There is not reason why you couldnt modify it to be 1 meter on Y axis as well, which was done here...C-Beam Machine upgrade to 1000mm x 1000mm

 

look at mine, the cutting area is 24,24 inches

 

I've seen them like that style. I'm asking about simply using the XL style kit but extending it.

 

now waiiiiiiit a minute
Where in the HRM are you? I didnt have any thought until I saw the Metals R Us link! Im just 20 minutes from dartmouth

 

Awesome write-up I am building my cbeam right now just got the box and going to open it up. Studying the install instructions so I kind of have a heads up before I actually do the build. Thanks for the tips, what is the size of the aluminum plate that's an awesome idea I was going to go with MDF but I think I'll do this instead.

 

The first thing I did was make a v-slot table. From there, I made custom spoilers depending on the task. Both types have cut outs that allow bolt access from above the spoiler. A simple four bolts will hold down more than this machine can handle.

I have a few made from acrylic for machining aluminum. This allows me to machine while flooded. These are made with very long slots that allow me to hold anything that can be placed on the spoiler. Granted it was only made for up to a 6"x8" plate, but it could be applied to the entire 13"x13" area.

Then I have a standard MDF spoiler that is smaller than my cutting area. Being able to machine the entire area has been one of my better decisions. This allows me to place larger material than the pocketed spoiler would allow, without having to worry about it being off level.

 

You have an aluminum base. You can always use the machine to drill it's own grid. Then tap them to the standard m5 thread.

Cut your spoiler with holes to accommodate your grid, and that's that.

 

I am using a particle board spoil board, so I use particle board screws on thicker pieces, but on thinner stuff like 6 mm plywood and lexan sheets I often use some wire nails, along with potentially some double sided tape. Wouldn't recommend it though for anything thicker or harder than that.

 

Your photos and the instructions you include look really good. Thank you for posting them.

Unfortunately your build inspired me to ask a question.

Not to hijack this thread but I am looking to build a CBM XL and I am curious about some of the step you have in your build. Is there a need to modify the c-beam extrusions that I get with the kit as far as cutting them to length as well as drilling and tapping ...or is that only necessary if someone buys the parts individually from OpenBuilds parts store?

 

Exactly how precise is vital?

I have to ask since a mitre saw seems to the recommended tool to use to cut everything to length. And since mitre saws are typically used for carpentry and woodworking the saw in it self has limitations. I'm guess you're going to say + or - .015 inches at best where perhaps + or - .020 to .025 inches is maybe actually more realistic.

 

Sprags, there is a good description of the issue in the thread "The best cutting and squaring method??" in "General Talk". It also goes into a jig that can be used to square the ends of the cuts.