With this video, anyone can make a camera slider!

 

What a nice simple solution.

 

Looks good! Inertia is definitely the killer feature of proper video sliders, and it looks like it got delivered here- the test shots were nice! I like the 1/4-20 T-nut idea too, I definitely had problems with the aluminum's thread holding capability- but it's designed for extrusion, not machining. These days I'd just do steel angle brackets t-nutted to the sides, but if there's a quarter inch available in the slots, this is a pretty low-profile solution.

Only thing I'd say is watch the video editing (a lesson I'm working on learning myself, also)- I found myself skipping back and forth to find out what was going on because you lingered on things that didn't really need to be and left processes that didn't need precise description at original speed. Could hack that 41 minutes down to about 15 and make it more engaging and watchable without too much issue, I suspect.

That Dremel shot still took me back though, haha!

 

This is great. I have a Sony FS5 and returned the 1st slider I bought as the plate and 5/8" screw attachment seemed really weak.

However, I only want to take this so far, in that, I do not feel I need to add the flywheel mechanism now. I simply am buying the parts to allow me to have a nice manual slider.

That said, does anyone have ideas about giving the first stage a finished look and functionality. My idea are to have feet on the bottom, (no problem, I can find those and attach them). Also want to create attachment points to be able to loft the slide between 2 stands. I have a pair of Newner stands with a 5/8" opening in the top with a side screw tensioner.

Oh wow...I just built it in my head. ****! This is like LEGO! Yeah< I can use a tap wrench to make a 5/8" rod to fits into the C-rail, and then That will fit into the into the stand. This way I can securely lock each into place so my $6,000 camera set up stays safe.

Also looking at adding short 8" legs with hemispherical rubber feet. This will allow me to run the slide on a tilt and get elevated trucking shots.

Also will want to add more lengths of c-beam, in the future to make long tracking shots.

Also hit me that if the Xtreme Solid Wheels can hold 25lbs each, then making a wheel pod for 4 corners of a full sized dolly using 6 wheels on each pod, would give you 600 lbs max. Which means, I could build a full sized dolly and use C-Beams as the track.

But I am digressing heavily here. Really, if anyone can help me with some ideas on getting the C-Beam secured to these stands, I would be grateful. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073WVJ7C7/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here are the parts I have in my shopping cr so far.

C-Beam® Linear Rail
Length: 1500mm
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Remove
$39.00
$39.00
C-Beam® Gantry Plate - XLarge
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$14.95
$14.95
Low Profile Screws M5
Length: 35mm
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$4.25
$4.25
Low Profile Screws M5
Length: 10mm
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$3.20
$3.20
Low Profile Screws M5
Length: 20mm
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$3.40
$3.40
Tee Nuts (25 Pack)
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$4.95
$4.95
Eccentric Spacer
Length: 6mm
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$2.00
$4.00
Aluminum Spacers
Size: 6mm
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$0.20
$0.80
Xtreme Solid V Wheel™ Kit
Remove
$6.75
$27.00

 

Used this to build my manual slider. The only difference is I had to buy a 3/8 inch tap as I used a Manfrotto MVH 500AH flat bottom head. The reason I chose this head is that I have the ball mount version of this head, the Manfrotto MVH 500A. And these heads have what Manfrotto calls their "Bridging System". And this is a mounting plate and quick release system that I have attached to my Sony FS5. So now I can lock into and out of each Head quickly and easily so there is no issue on set. It's fast and professional.

Want to thank Open Builds and Beam a thank you for the great ideas & great products. The camera sliders for $500+ are laughable compared to what I built.