What NEMA 23 stepper motors are you using?

 

Parts list is up, awesome! Hoping to get everything in stock so I can make an order and start a build!

 

Nice to see the BOM. Does not look complicated from the parts list, so happy.

So issues oh:
The links in the BOM do not pupulate the right length (So you could get 1000 part not the 1500mm part
that is needed. Second I wonder about the "cut" as it not very clear, as my "cutting" ability is with a dremal
with a metal disk, so I worry about precision. Be nicer if you could just have a part of the right length or
a kit of the extrusions, plus the plates.

Also be nice to have a "idea" of the motor specs that are preferred.

On controller, the MiniG looks like it could take care of most all the needs of the ox.

Any thoughts?

 

Sorry, my type, its TinyG
https://synthetos.myshopify.com/products/tinyg

Looks pretty cool, and inexpensive controller.

Can also control from android.

 

Consider letting us populate "out-of-stock" items, as we cannot even price out the OX as we
hit out of stock items. Least we can pump in a bom, price and plan.

Longer term, be nice to be able to submit with out of stock items. I really dont care how long
it takes. Might longer term even allow a "split" to go ahead and process in-stock, and wait on a second order for the out of stock.

 

Hi Mark --

I’m puzzled about the belt/pinion system:

1. Based on the Inventor models from the Resources area, the width of the opening in the V-groove (where a belt rides in/out) is .2236. This is consistent with the 2d drawings on http://openbuildspartstore.com/.
2. This opening appears to not be wide enough for a ¼” (.250) wide MXL belt, nor is it (on paper) wide enough for the 6mm (.2362”) GT2 belt sold on OpenBuilds.

How does this work? Perhaps the model is flawed? Perhaps typical belt stock is undersized?

I’d prefer to use MXL for the design I'm working on, it’s a better match for available ¼” bore pulleys for the NEMA 23 motor. Do I need to redesign to use a standard belt/pulley system?

All input is gratefully received.
Neil

 

I'd be interested in a saved cart, so you can build it and I can just click "buy"

 

Love this build, I am actually buying a CNC 3020T in the next few weeks the build area is a little small but, I can either cannibalize the electronics and spindle off of it and build this one or wait until I get a little more money and build this one and buy the other one as well. Really need to stock Nema 23's etc.

 

Mark - that's a great build (and video too). Itchin' to build a square one (750x750). Those 4 new plates look like monsters. Be great if you could eventually supply them, but in the meantime - can anybody make some suggestions on how to hack these out of MDF or something? To get started I could provide a how-to on printing same-size templates from the sketchup models, when you release them (on a big-enough printer).

 

For anyone who has Solidworks 2010 or later, I have a design derived from OX. Not built yet, but may be of interest -- there are some alternative approaches utilized. I will gladly share in Pack and Go file format.
Key features:
1. The slaved motors X (Y?) are under the chassis, much like the original Routy, with the belts out of dust's way.
2. The two halves of the gantry carriage are spaced/held by independent bolts, not the roller bolts.
3. The z-axis is rack and pinion, not lead screw.
4. I used NEMA 23's all around.
5. All assemblies permit easy adjustment.
I plan to build in the near future, will use a Plasma CNC to cut custom 1/4" plates for the carriages. The solid models are about 85% done, will finish very soon.
Neil

 

Please upload your solidworks files. Would like to see them. Was looking for a way to build in backlash
compensations.

 

If you don't mind me asking. What spindle do you plan to use? That seems to be the least talked about subject when it comes to DIY CNC.

 

I am going to start with one of these:

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-trim-router-44914.html

And then some day upgrade too one of these:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_226729-353-...serSearch=bosch+colt&productId=1062825&rpp=32

 

Your not really going to find anything lighter in the same class. And the OX should be able to handle the bosch colt just fine. People have used them just fine on Shapeokos.

 

Will this work in the OX? I already ordered it...
Makita RF1101 2-1/4-Horsepower Variable Speed Router

I'm thinking Japanese Makita(e.g. toyota) vs German Bosch(e.g. Volkswagen) vs American Porter-Cable(e.g. Ford Pinto).

Product sheet says 3.22kg(7.1lbs).

 

That might be just a bit heavy for even the OX.

 

I ordered one of the "Horrible" Freight trim routers that Nick had mentioned, waiting to see if it will be ok for the task. At $30 it's a throw-away, but should get me started. As someone else had suggested, I also ordered the little HF router speed control. Will post further info as they start to get tested.

 

I just spoke with someone that is using one of them on a small CNC router, he says it works pretty good. A bit underpowered compared to the specs. But that it has decent bearings and works.

 

What mods would I have to make to the OX to support this? I've seen a lot people using the Porter Cable 7519 which weighs 6.8kg(15lbs) on a joes 4x4 cnc which uses t-slot aluminum and spans a greater distance. I know the dual nema 23s are the same thing all the routers are using. I saw one guy had an 8ft span by using 2 aluminum extrusions bolted to a steel U-channel. here:

 

Right and that machinein the video has about 16 times as much aluminum plus the steel channel. Each on of those extrusions is 3x6 inches. That is 6 times the area of the Openbuilds 2080. And he admitted he still gets a tiny amount of flex downards in the middle of the span. The thing to keep in mind is the Openbuilds extrusions are realativly speaking small. That is part of why they are so inexpensive.

 

Ok so this may sound crazy, but what if you could get a 3D printer up and running and then you print space-frames to reinforce the aluminum? It's basically little triangles all connected. Also you could even get that new wood filament to print with and it would have some wood properties... Or use nylon, etc. I mean the frame seems strong enough to get a little router up and running so it should be able to easily do a 3D printer. Then you could make some insane shapes that add strength in just the right places. Even make it snap or bolt onto the v-slot