Nice to see another CO2 laser build here.
I am sure the V-Slot will be just ideal for your application and I look forward to following your progress.

Tweakie.

 

Glad to see such a powerful laser. I've been wanting to put a laser onto the gantry of the CNC router I'm building right now. What does the SDZ DX go for? I think a 40 watt would be sufficient as I only would need to cut 1/2" MDF and up to 1/4" acrylic. Thoughts?

Thanks,
Ray

 

Thanks for the information. The $100 to ship is a bit unsettling, but that just means I have to do it right in the future. Everything I want to do now should be handled by 3D Printer and/or CNC.

Have you tried cutting metal on the 100w?

 

Oh, I'm not complaining - I'm just setting the expectation that I'll do it this way, correctly, but in the future.

 

Cool project and even cooler that you're sharing it, I've been looking for something like this for a while, kind of needed a reasonable base for a similar build so I'll be following this indeed do you have any idea of the total cost as of yet?

Best regards

 

I have been wanting to build a laser cutter for awhile. What is the proposed cutting area in this build? Also, Aside from the XY stage, could something like Misumi HSF5 T-Slot be used for the frame to bring the cost down considerably? Just curious why you went with all V-Slot. Is there something I am missing or could T-Slot be substituted for all the frame and then build the XY axis's from V-Slot?

 

Depending on how you go about it, dealing with only one order may be cheaper than two separate ones, especially since he isn't in the USA. That said, v-slot completely interchangeable with other base 20 extrusions such as Misumi and 80/20.

 

More questions, I have seen 3D printed parts used on some other laser builds, how do you think 3D printing the plates would fair? I have a couple 3D printers and am building a CNC machine, but do you think they'd work okay? And then I could swap them out down the road once I got my other machines going. I'm trying to come up with things to make this build cheaper to immediately get into and also more accessible to myself and others.

As for the electronics, is there a particular DSP you'd recommend? And is there anyway to get more info on the Wantai deal you mention in your bill of materials? I have all the parts picked out for doing this build in T-Slot from Misumi and the XY stage with V-Slot from open builds. As soon as the Misumi site gets done doing maintenance I'll finally be able to see if it's any cheaper or enough savings to make it worth going this route. I'm working on sourcing the other components now. I really like what you've created and want to bring this to fruition.

 

I went ahead and ordered all the extrusion and mechanical components for this build. I went with T-Slot from Misumi for the frame. And ordered V-Slot from Openbuilds for the XY Stage. If anybody is interested I can post the BOM for doing this build this way. It won't be tested until I receive the extrusions and get it put together, but I don't expect any problems. Further more I have created STL files from the Sketchup design provided so that the plates could be printed on a 3D printer. I can share those if anybody wants them. I split a few of the brackets into sections for easier printing and added holes to to secure the plates together.

Just a few observations and questions. I know the BOM isn't finalized but I noticed you don't have any idler wheels listed in your BOM. Everything else is there for the XY stage except them. Another thing, the 100W laser tube is listed at 1400mm long. This build is only 1300 in length. Any update on your build using the 100w tube? I've also tried contacting sdzlaser several times for a quote and not gotten a return email. I'd really like some more info on where and how you secured some of the parts for your build. I guess I'll keep waiting

 

I am wondering if any of the builders of freeburn style 100w lasers have any updates from actual build experience or modifications?

I am looking at building one of the OpenHardwareCoZa controller boards from the dirtyPCB file shares on the freeburn 2 thread.

 

Well from the top of my head, mind you I still haven't finished mine...The longest laser tube you can fit is about 1250mm. Reci makes a 80/90 watt tube that will fit within those dimensions as it is 1250mm, but it will probably be tight. But pretty much every other laser tube manufacturer has their laser tubes coming in at 1400mm for a 80/90 watt. If you want a 100w, Reci again makes the shortest I've seen available at 1450mm and again most other tubes are 200mm longer at 1650mm. So if you build your laser, like I did, according to the dimensions and overlook this fact Your tube won't fit and you would need to build on a little side box or extended your electronics area or the laser axis's. Basically what I've been planning on doing is ordering 1500mm extrusions to replace the 1000mm ones I originally bought. I have my frame built and would have to swap out the X axis lengths. Let me tell you it's a pretty nice size cut area at 1000mm and 1500mm is huge when I tape measured it out. But if you want to use some of the higher power tubes, you will need to build bigger somewhere in order to fit the tube.

It should also be noted that I ordered T-Slot from misumi originally and ordered them at the lengths I needed. So everything came pre-cut quite nicely. Then I ordered V-Slot for the X and Y axis's. This saved me some money and headache. But you should probably check prices bc some of the prices on V-Slot vs T-Slot are more competitive now, if you were going to go the same route. I think 20x20 prices are fairly close but T-Slot is still considerably cheaper in 20x40mm extrusions. Talking saving several hundred dollars. BUT if you're ordering during this sale...that could offset the cost difference.

Since I have to redo my build I had considered ordering the Mini-V linear actuators and reworking the design to use them. This would allow most people a way to easily get their XY Stages up and running. The one concern would be having two independent motors on the Y axis, instead of having a drive shaft running the opposite Y rail. I have seen DIY lasers do it both ways and haven't really read about much issues in terms of everything staying in alignment. Pretty much every CNC/3D Printer uses two motors so I think it'd be okay. But since this is a laser it might be more finicky, especially when running at high speeds to do engraving.

I would recommend buying adjustable laser tube mounts instead of making your own. This will help with aligning the laser. I'd buy the better laser mirror mounts, not the ones in the BOM. And I went with 25mm mirrors with a 20mm laser head instead of 18mm. Obviously there's a lot more to getting this laser going than what's in the BOM. That gets you the core components. But there's a lot of things you will need/want. Misc connectors and fittings for your water cooling system/air assist. You'll probably want some solenoid controlled valves for controlling them. And speaking of cooling the laser, you'll probably definitely want to build or buy a cooling system that's more than a bucket of water and a pump. Larger lasers produce more heat. I bought some larger heat sinks, PC water cooling radiators and some peltier cooling chips. I bought DIN rail to mount my electronics. DIN power supply's, terminal blocks etc. Then you may want to consider building some type of Z axis. Whether it's motorized or not the Z axis/bed is difficult to work with in the current design. I mean you can just fix the bed to other extrusion. But when you get down to it, I think most people will want/need a Z axis. There's lots more but...for now

That is my ramble. I just didn't want someone to find themselves in the same situation.

 

Thanks for your feedback.. I was looking at using the Buildlog.net frame calculator (SCAD file) that can be found on thingiverse to scale up as required and generate a cut list, jump to 2040 to beef somethings up - Misumi for the frame. I have some unused open rail and Vslot that i could us for the gantry.

I'd like to know about what you have learned for mirror and optics sources - since it always seems that with DIY projects - its only after you are done that you really know what you should have to shop for parts..

 

I ordered the main laser components from Sinjoe Laser. I ordered their 80-100w tube, at the time Reci was changing factories and you couldn't get new tubes. I'll link the comparable Reci, but I can't really say enough about the service Sinjoe gave me. The tube is extremely well made. And to be honest, I did a lot of reading before I ordered any parts. And a lot of people who had been there suggested to me to not buy a Reci tube. Not because it's not a good tube. But because they don't last. I'm sure it varies. For a long time Reci was practically the only reputable tube manufacturer. That has changed and there are quite a few manufacturers that are just as good. Sinjoe had the things I needed at the best prices and the cheapest shipping. I got my items in about a week and everything was packaged extremely well. I saved several hundreds ordering the components through them.

I was looking back on Sinjoe's website and their website was quoting shipping as about 3x more expensive than what I paid. So I contacted Sinjoe and am waiting to hear back. I think there may be something wrong with the quoting system. I'll update when I know. But for now I would contact them to get an accurate quote. Also, contacting them with what you want will typically get you a little lower price. I'd put it all in an email or the contact form and ask for a quote to your location.

CO2 Laser Tube 80-100w 1400mm - Co2 Glass Laser Tube S8 Model 80w Sinjoe Brand 1400mm Longth 80mm Diameter
Comparable Reci Tube 80w 1250mm - Co2 Laser Tube Reci S2 Model 80w 1250mm Longth 80mm
Diameter (If you decide to order from Sinjoe and you're getting this tube, get the power supply they recommend for the Reci tubes. They are tailored for Reci tubes)

Lens Set 50.8mm - Co2 Laser Focus Lens U.S Materials 1Pcs+ Co2 Laser Reflection Mirror Si Materials 3Pcs (Comes with 3 25mm SI Mirrors and then the 20mm laser head lens)

Controller - Co2 Laser Cutter Engraver Driller Dsp Control System Awc708C LITE (Love this controller. Worth the money IMO. Do not buy the Plus version unless you really just want the numpad. The only difference between the Plus and Lite is the numpad and the fact that the Plus can control 8 lasers...instead of the Lite's 4. Everything else is identical)

CO2 Power Supply - Co2 Laser Power Supply Dy10 For 80-100W Laser Tube

Laser Head - Pro laser head mount for 25mm mirror & 20mm focus lens. LR Type

Mirror Mounts - Pro 25mm reflection mirror mount for Co2 laser machine

Laser Tube Mount - Pro Laser Tube Mount 80mm (adjustable)

Stepper Motor Drivers - THB6064 MassMind Stepper Motor Driver Kit (I love these
affordable stepper drivers, have to solder them tho. Google video how to shows the entire process)

Solenoid Valve 1 - 3/8" 12VDC Hose Barb Electric Solenoid Valve Plastic Body 450mA 12-volt DC New

Solenoid Valve 2 - 1/4" NPT Electric Solenoid Valve 12-Volt DC, 12VDC, N/C, RO, Air, Water BBTF

CO2 Laser DC Current Meter 100ma - 0-100 Ma. Dc. EL METER DAY / NIGHT VIEWING (I paid more for the aesthetics and build quality)

Misc Din Power Supplies - galco-industrial-electronics | eBay (These are well made and affordable din rail mount power supplies)

Air Pump - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JPM91W?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s04 (From my reading, this is more than adequate for air assist. This guy puts out quite a bit of air. I didn't feel the need for a full on air compressor)

Water Pump - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EN33O6M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages07 (Again paid more after MUCH reading. If I'm spending all this money, I want it to last. Not fail)

Misc Water Cooling Components for DIY water cooler - (This isn't everything, I'm mostly linking stuff to give ideas. If I had to do it over, I'd prob order the large radiator from lightobject)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFDS3JA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s08
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050MR8CG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages10
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IHWAVQ6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages07
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IYDREUE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages13
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IKDL22O?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages07
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ODM76C?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages07
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KJAX9XQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages01
Light Object Radiator - 12inch (300mm) Water Evaporator/ Cooler Radiators for CO2 Laser Cooling
(prob overkill, I didn't buy this but it appears to be an ideal radiator)

Exhaust Components - (Again not everything, just stuff I either got or saved. Not linking anything that I don't feel is adequate to the purpose)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003EX02DA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s11 (Moves quite a bit of air, it's important to have the inside closed off so vacuum like action can take place when venting the fumes. Moves 200+ CFM according to specs. Don't know yet if this will be enough but I think these in-line blowers are ideal. They don't take up much space, are 12v and you can always add more)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NE59HE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s03
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PQDUA0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s04

Test Fire Button - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K85DBGM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s05

Din Circuit Breakers - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HG85VYO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s05

SSR - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KPIX9A?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s07

Potentiometer - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CTWDHIO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s07 (For controlling test fire power)

Potentiometer Knob - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CQLORZ0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s05

Fused Receptacle - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s07

DC to DC Buck Converters - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BHBEE0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages01

Inductive Proximity Sensors - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PACB4H6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00

I'll add more stuff if I find or remember it. There's still quite a bit of stuff missing. If you go DIN Rail mount electronics, you'll want din rail. It can be found cheap locally or online. You'll need appropriate fittings for you air assist and water cooling. I can't remember if the laser head comes with the air assist connector. If it does not, I believe it's a 1/8 BST(might be NPT) You'd want a 90 male to thread into the side of the nozzle. If you decide to use solenoids to control the flow of air/water, you'll need the connectors to make that happen. Which is one reason why I love the controller I linked from Sinjoe. It has all the inputs and outputs to easily connect and control all that. Otherwise you'll have to figure it all out through whatever board/medium you'll be running the laser with. I still need a water reservoir to complete my water cooling setup.

I originally was doing the drive shaft on the Y Axis. I bought a long piece of decent 5/16 steel rod, can't remember the exact type but I found something that was fairly good dimensionaly. You don't need one of the expensive shafts to turn a pulley. If you go this route you'll need 8mm GT2 pulleys. Or if you have a way to turn down the rod on a lathe you can do that. 8mm GT2 pulleys, not a lot of places sell them, I found mine on ebay. When I change out my extrusions for the longer ones, I haven't decided if I will do two motors or stick to the drive shaft.

 

This is a great build. I want to start the ordering process but does anyone have a complete and updated BOM? I wanna use a 100 watt tube.
Also does anyone have more pictures and videos?

 

And what where did you get the brackets from?