Okey, I have had some serial communication issues with my xPRO v3 (corrupted gcode lines I think) but I’ll see if I can figure it out.

 

Just uploaded one of my first projects on the mini mill. If anyone reading this is thinking about buying a mini mill, then the answer is yes you should. This was made with under a week of experience with the machine.

Aluminum Knuckle Multi Tool.

 

I'm having the same problem: using the Openbuilds C-beam platemaker machine kit and assembly video, the lead screws don't line up with the bearings in the end plates on both the X and Y axis.
The lead screw is about 1-2mm too close to the plate to end up centered on the bearing without a lot of flex.

What is the purpose of the shims between the wheels and the spacers? Removing them or moving them to the anti-backlash nut block looks like it might make things come out about right.

 

Earlier in this thread it has been said that you should leave out the shims on in the X and Y axes to make them line up correctly. You should still use them for the Z-axis small V-Wheels. They even suggested to add a piece of thin aluminium tape or something similar between the anti backlash nut and the XLarge Gantry Plate for the X and Y to make it line up perfectly.

 

Okay. I am finished my mechanical build and now I am off to the electrical build.

I ended up with the CNC USB Controller Mk 3/4 and three DQ542MAs.

I have the high-torque NEMA 23s. I do not see any reference for the datasheet for these motors on the store site. Does anyone know where I can get the datasheet? What is the wiring mapping for the drivers (RGBY <--> A+A-B+B-)?

What switch settings do I use for the DQ542MAs?

I see that the steppers are 1.8°/step, but how do I know what pulse/rev to use? I know the controller can microstep...

I assume that the current settings are 3.32 A as the steppers peak at 3.0 A. Or do I set the at 2.84 A to protect them?

Thanks,
Jon

 

All open loop steppers can lose steps at some level of micro stepping. Smaller micro steps = more potential for step loss. It depends in part on the about of force that the stepper generates and the resistance to that force from the spindle.

I would guess the smallest usable microstep in your case would be defined by being just below the point the steppers start to lose steps cutting whatever material you plan to cut at a torque/current setting that does not overheat the driver or the motor.

Obviously you would want to experiment with the current and micro steps to reach the ideal settings. My suggestion would be to start at the higher step settings and lower current settings and work up from there until the motors (and drivers) are just getting warm to the touch having the max torque at the smallest micro step just before losing steps or overheating.

Also another consideration for setting microsteps is what is the maximum resolution your mill can deliver with the lead screws and smallest cutting end mill bit you expect to use.

 

Has anyone wired up the DQ542MAs with the CNCControllerMk3/4? What colors map to what driver terminals?

What switch settings?

 

Anyone have any suggestions for preventing hot aluminum chips from embedding themselves in the Xtreme Solid V wheels as they thrown from the bit?

 

I use a dust shoe with my Makita that keeps the chips corralled pretty well:

​

 

Another NOOB question... how do you connect the sacrificial material to the bed? In the photo above it looks like counter-sunk screws. What size screws are those?

 

There are 4 tapped holes on the gantry plate. They are M5. i just cut a square and then countersunk for 2 M5 bolts and just screw into the wood to attatch stock.

 

Those are M5 x 15mm countersunk and screwed into the threaded holes of the C-beam XL plate. If you use a thicker spoiler, you might want 20mm. (That was MDF trim from Lowes - about 5/8" thick.)

 

Anyone have a template for the screw holes?

 

The

cad models are online, but the tapped holes are arranged 60mm x 100mm

 

Thanks-- I am looking at the PDFs of the models; however, I do not see one for the C-beam XL Plate.

 

Hey team,

I am just learning Fusion 360 but I created a drill plan for a waste board for the XL Gantry Plate. Note that the 1:1 PDF generated 120 mm plate (vs. 125 mm) so this PDF was generated at 1.0417:1 to compensate and prints up on my Lexmark laser printer as 125 mm.

Best,
Jon
W1JP

 

What kind of accuracy and repeat ability have people gotten out of the mini mill?

 

Hi guys, I stumbled across this little machine and thought it would be a great promo tool for the business I work for. Is there someone I could contact directly to answer some questions I have on the build?

I’m in Australia and work for a software company for the window and door industry. I look after connnecting our quoting software to CNC machines designed for Aluminum extrusion. I would love to build this and show it machining profiles from our software.

Look forward to speaking with someone.

 

My questions are around the axis drives and the parts supplied. I’m looking to build a CNC that resembles the one pictured.
It has a long X axis which is fixed and the Y and Z axis move.
Is it possible to use a longer drive shaft for the X and would the motor be stonge enough to move the Z and

 

This is what I would like to try and make...

 

Off subject ( What machine will cut DT foam) Sheets are 20x30".

 

Thank you.

 

I know about Phlat Boyz. I have a Phlat Printer 1.Sold my PP3 years ago(BIG MISTAKE).

 

LOL...yeah...should have sold your PP1! I keep my PP3 too. I used it for WAY more materials to cut than it originally was intended to be used.