I do not recommend to integrate it to Z top. Z top is 0.2mm lower than top of v-slot for tolerances. And depending how you cut the v-slot and/or how you tight them, then you might twist the X axis a bit.

 

OH MY GOD! HUGE thank you for your vote and support!!! <3

HUGE thank you to Openbuilds for this awesome contest and price!

https://openbuilds.com/threads/closed-win-the-ultimate-powerpack.11224/

I dream for a long time to build a CNC (before a 3D printer)!!! And I have few ideas that have not seen here so I will start drawing now!

 

Thank Openbuilds for the PowerPack Contest and for the awesome price!
Thank you everyone for your vote and support!
This is an awesome day!
https://openbuilds.com/…/closed-win-the-ultimate-powerpack…/

 

Haha I was so many time close to buy everything for a Sphinx build (last time I was in contact with someone that could cut the plates for me) ! I love you design Kyo, simple and efficient!

However, I have some idea in my head that I would like to give a try, something that I never seen here (maybe for a reason )

 

This is definitely something I would like to work on it! I just do not want to make it quick and dirty, I like to take my time to develop things. I am currently getting more and more familiar with the X axis end extruder. Next feature will be improved X-ends (based on MK3 R2 design) and improved MK2.5/3 extruder which will also solve this issue : Filament path is not straight through Bondtech wheels · Issue #51 · prusa3d/Original-Prusa-i3

The big next things will be an open source filtered case and a CNC !

 

I ahve not done any scientific comparison but too me they are better :

• You have less chance to break the bearing compared to U bolt
• Better repartition of the forces
  
• If you take the time to perfectly align smooth rods, then you can screw them stronger (be careful to not exaggerate as the holes in aluminum carriage have sharp angles)
  
• Less slop

 

I'll mention this into my openbuilds distributor list

I am sorry to hear this, I am working with Openbuilds distributors to get my kit easily and accurately cut, hope I will have more news to share soon

 

First of ll I am sorry to not be active a lot here. The FB group gives me lots of work (and this is a very very good news) and so I had to make some choices. If I would like to be active on openbuilds, thinginverse, patreon, facebook, prusa forum as well as talking with distributors (and planing future projects) then I will do quick and dirty work with the community and I will not have time to create new parts/builds. I like to take my time to build something good (this includes community!), there is already plenty of quick and dirty things out there!

Talking about new parts, I have a new X axis and extruder coming soon. Some features (for now) :

1. Extruder motor closer by 2.5mm to X rods to avoid vibration
   
2. Extruder is lighter
3. I found the perfect filament path (original one is wrong)
   
4. Solve lots of mechanical bugs form Prusa design
5. Ventilation of hotend sink as been improved a lot (will better cool down PINDA probe as well)
   
6. Perfect belt alignment
   
7. X ends have been beefed up
8. X motor is closer to rods to reduce vibration
   
9. Overall rigidity as been increased
10. New tensioning system that keeps the belt perfectly aligned
11. Easier to remove extruder for maintenance (changing the PTFE tube for example)

Some features I am working on :
- I will be able to make Extruder motor even closer to smooth rods by reducing the x carriage thickness
- Use only one screw for extruder idler (this is what Bondtech is doing and all feedback I get are very promising)
- Try to move extruder motor even closer to rods
- Rework x-carriage-cover to make it easier to use during maintenance
- Currently it is build for MK2.5, but will be then released for MK3 and MK2s
- Use a shorter PTFE tube to improve flexible filament extrusion

Some pics :

 

No worry, no change on the frame side. It is even compatible with original MK2 or MK3 frame.

You will only need to get some hardware like GT2 16T idler and print extruder parts, x end idler and x end motor. Hardware is easy to source and cheap

 

I am happy you are happy with your new frame !!!

Thank you for the support on Patreon, this is very useful for me to continue what is just starting with the Bear upgrade. I really want to push forward lots of tools (3d printer but also others like CNC)

The next thing is the extruder and x axis rework (will be compatible from MK2 to MK3). Then, I am not 100% but maybe an open source filtered enclosure (I really need one). And the next "big" thing will be linear rails for the Bear upgrade (I am already doing some small tests).

The actual RAMBo cover is a pretty bad design from Prusa. I have no replacement to propose yet but I know the community around the Bear upgrade is working on it. Once a new RAMBo cover will be available (and if I like it) I will add it to this page : gregsaun/prusa_i3_bear_upgrade . Could you point me which screw pulled out from this drawings : gregsaun/prusa_i3_bear_upgrade

 

@ufoDziner Honestly do not go this way, you will pay more for a lower quality and without guarantee. Heated bed are not easy to make, kind of chance to make them flat and magnets are hard to source even for Chinese manufacturers. The failure rate is quite high even for Prusa! Filament sensor is a problem because it is very hard to get them, you need to get them in huge quantities and there is no replacement. So "black" market does exists for them and Prusa will not selling one for you if you did not get a kit from them.

Moons motor are not necessary, yes today they are running quieter and colder but it is not because they are better manufactured (they are made close to Prusa motor, in china too). One of the guy from community born with inconsistent extrusion is running dead silent and cold Prusa motor on RAMPs board. Investigation is still on going and need more tests but the biggest problem seems to be the driver configuration. He is working hard on this and hope he will publish something interesting soon. Moons are running better mainly because they better match the bad Prusa configuration of the drivers.

I heard lots of mixed review for the Olsson Ruby nozzle, be careful with it. Someone else is doing one but I do not remember who, might be good to compare.

Latest Prusa shaft and bearing are good. Rods are hardened and very strong, bearing is just okay, but you will not get something better with this type of axis. Which is why I will add linear rails to the Bear. Add tons of grease inside the bearing and get some spare. Honestly you will not get something very much better from Misumi either. SKF would be a good alternative but very expensive and very hard to align (you will need special measuring tool and some tricks to align the rods). Also X axis cannot really be better due to its design, whatever you are going to put on it, you will still have a not strong enough axis and hard to maintain.

I would say that the best upgrade after the Bear frame you can do on the MK3 is the extruder. This week I will publish an update of the Bear extruder with lots of very nice features but you can also have a look to the Skelestruder from JLTX.

 

@ufoDziner this what I could see from people trying to built from scratch, they end up with something more expensive. However, I recommend to use Sunon MF40100V1-1000U-G99 instead of the Noctua. Noctua is unable to cool down the hotend correctly. Also replace the second Bondtech gear by a bearing (will be proposed as an option on my extruder). Bondtech gears are not meshing correctly and will introduce inconsistent extrusion (other factors are going in this issue but this is the biggest one).



Bellow some pics of my extruder/x-axis and you can get some details here but (more will come) : gregsaun/bear_extruder_and_x_axis





Almost all details from the new Prusa revision are in my extruder since a long time now and they are better (as well as other important features). The air multiplier hole (Dyson effect) has been tested and it does not work, air can even go out instead of in which will increase hotend temperature! Same result with a more powerful fan (you need turbine to make it work)! The new nozzle shroud with angled fan has not been tested by myself but it is fully compatible with my extruder.

No Y axis stop yet but it is planned to make it soon (just want to finish the extruder). Here are a list of some improvements coming :
gregsaun/prusa_i3_bear_upgrade

However, you can use my bearing holder which will avoid the bearing to move : Prusa i3 Bear Bearing Holders by pekcitron

 

@ufoDziner sorry for my late answer, it is hard for me to be active everywhere (if I do this I have no time for CAD and printing :-D ).

All the guidance and instruction are available on GitHub here :
gregsaun/prusa_i3_bear_upgrade
Do not forget to take a look at the "preflight check and disassembly" section as well

I am more active in the FB group dedicated :
Prusa i3 Bear Upgrade

And in the Discord server here :
Discord - Free voice and text chat for gamers

But I am always looking here because Openbuilds community is very nice, full of very interesting idea and build. But slower to respond ;-)

Hope you understand...

 

GitHub is the best place but not very easy to use. In case of you can get it from thingiverse as well:
Prusa i3 Bear Upgrade v2.0 by pekcitron

I recommend to follow the print settings but if you want to make them stronger it would be better to increase number of perimeters.

Enjoy the build