Very nice build! I like the enclosed design and the sturdy metal construction, I would like to build something like this next.

Do you think your bowden set-up could handle flexible filaments? this is concern I am having with my current build.

 

Alan;
What Version of Solidworks do you run? I only have 2013.
Can you save everything as parasolids?
Then I could load them no matter what version you have.

Thanks

 

Hi just curious if I could get a better picture of your timing belt apparatus for the X and Z axises. Looking to build a printer and want to know how you positioned them.

 

Would you be able to generate a set of drawings (PDF format) for this device? I have a final project that I need to do and everyone seems to be using anything BUT Solidworks. I have 7 weeks to get my **** together.

 

@alan richard,
This is very wonderful and very inspiring in my own attempt to build a similar machine. In fact once I saw this I decided to follow it fairly closely as it matches many ideas I had about a rigid framed corexy based model, and parts I have on hand.

I have a few questions if you are still here and able to answer. Do you still use this system and how is it holding up after what appears to be 1.5 years? What might you change to improve it?

What was your reason for having one xy belt above (motor up) and one below (motor down)? I realize the belts need to be offset slightly but I would have chosen to have them only slightly offset on the same side of the xy plane but I may be missing something important. Since I'm currently ordering parts and going to build a very similar printer it would be great to have clarity on this arrangement.

Thanks, and great looking system!

 

Thank you so much for your detailed answer. I'm just at the stage now of ordering parts and materials so it will be weeks before things arrive and I start building. One thing I had already decided was to use AC silicone heating due to how much power would need to be pushed through the PSU. Funny though because I thought you had a large SSR for this reason and I was copying you. It is incredibly helpful to see your working version as a model to work from because it adds more certainty to my outcome as long as I don't deviate too much. Anyway, I may get back in touch if I have questions while trying to build later.

Thank you again for even just putting this project here for others (me) to see and work from. I've browsed many designs online but yours just hit closest to what I had in mind.

 

Maybe you know this already but I just thought I'd mention it. The first youtube video is not viewable in UK, USA or Australia (my location) due to copyright content (SME apparently, whatever that is). I tried some proxies and was able to view through one in Germany so did get to see it. It could be that most people who try to view it cannot and why it has half the views compared to second one.

 

I have the same SSR on order (or a copy maybe as it's ebay). Did it go out in a bang/flash or just stop working?

According to the data sheet it will turn on above 2.5V with only 7.5 mA current so it shouldn't have much flowing through it. It's probably just not that high quality internally - though it did last a few years I guess. Maybe it's worth adding a current limit resistor on the input so even if it does short it won't damage the MOSFET on the control board if it happens again. Say, (12-3)V / 0.02A ~= 470 ohms, 1/2W should work.

I have most of my aluminum frame pieces, MKS Gen-L control board, 2 steppers, psu, j-head and extruder assembly already and another ~50 packages on the way arriving over the next few weeks.

Thanks for the update info.

 

Excellent. I'll check it out again. I thought it was fine as far as speed. It's probably depends on how interested the viewer is in the details. I've done up a simple cad drawing of mine now to try and ensure I get holes drilled / cuts right the first time. You really have to think 3D to make sure you don't put something where it will block the moving parts.

I'm totally enjoying between 2-8 pkgs. each day and look forward to the mail now. I have a few projects ongoing so at one point I had over 100 items in bound.

 

I say buy a tronyz x5s kit, gut the electronics literally dump and replace the controller board to a smothieboard, stepper motor replace w Nema 23 with a a aluminum rod for bracing, a torch Stabilize the frame a bit ,also have cnc made all metal parts made custom from a local machine shop. let them know to give u a pro type discount lol. But in all Great information youve provided, Thanks Friends , Really enjoy your post and will try it out on Tronyx x5s i just orderd

 

Alan, can you please post more details on how you assembled the acrylic sheet with magnets? I really want to make the same setup with the acrylic, since I also have corner cubes, but I don't understand what exactly you did to get it working.
I understand you put 10mm magnets inside the cubes, but what did you do with the acrylic corners?
Thanks

 

Thank you! I will give it a try

 

Wow! This is an excellent design.

Although I was a tinkerer when I was a young man, life (and depression) got in the way. Fast forward to the present and I'm learning that creating and building and being a "Maker" helps healing.

I have a couple cheapie 3D printers right now but I'd like to be able to have an enclosed "high temperature", all-metal printer to print polycarbonate, PEEK and such, regularly without the warping issues that many have.

Is the filament spool actually WITHIN the enclosure? (I assume easy enough to move outside)

Would this be a good printer for such high temperature materials, in your opinion?

Thanks!

 

Hey did you cut your extrusions using your jigsaw? How did you get your cuts to be straight if do