Anyone have any ideas on which spindle to get that will allow me to use a Super Fly Cutter from Tormach? I don't need their level, or expense, of a machine but that cutter is just too awesome.

 

A high-hp one. The Kress 1050FME would probably handle it well enough - or a 3HP router with a Super-PID type speed controller.

 

Awesome indeed but we would be unlikely to sucessfully use this type of tooling on anything less than an extremely stout and rigid type of machine.

Tweakie.

 

Some odd reason I am not getting updates to this thread now.

Anyway, 3hp? WOW Well, the collet size for it looks absolutely HUGE in the videos I have watched so that was a major concern as well.

If I can't use that what fly cutter can I use to make a smooth finish on 6061 with a normal 500w spindle?

 

Not a metalworker, sorry.

If it was timber I would say use a 1.5" bottom smoother

500W is small. My handheld Makita trimmer is 800w, my Kress is 1050 and my water-cooled spindle is 2.2kw. And you are using 110V, aren't you? Not as much torque as 220V.

 

What are you, my wife? If it says 1.5HP, being a male of the technical variety, that automatically goes through my Bloke Filter (tm) and comes out as 3HP.

Maybe they build you differently in the US That lack of voltage, maybe...

 

Yep, 117vac here so stuck at a limit as to what I can use. We have 234v but it is not the same as in Europe.

 

How are those from littlemachineshop? I am scared to touch anything from China these days. I love how the Spindles all say "run out less than .005mm" on Ebay.

 

Yeah, if it is made for 60 hertz 234Vac then fantastic but then we hit the brick wall of the prices of the two models. I saw those prices and I

 

Dunno about Europe, but how about the rest of the world? The only countries using 110v are those riding on the coattails of the US - like the Philippines, Japan, etc.

AFAIK there are only around 30 countries using 110 and 25 of them are the Americas. There are others with dual voltage, like Saudi, Afghan, etc. - but because you put some infrastructure in.

Time to ditch that old worry-wart 110V and come over to the forces of light It won't kill ya, honest.

 

You are very correct and I think they continue to use 117vac here because of how many houses have been built, and retrofitted, for it. Would be a disaster to change now but they should imo.

 

ok.
anyone here able to recommend speeds/feeds/depths for cutting the alu plate for the ox spindle on a routy with a dremel and 2amp nema 17's?
just got the plate in and am not confident 100% in my lil routy's ability here...

 

For your setup I suggest 4 ipm plunge rate, 10 ipm feed and 1/64 depth for multi pass.
Vac the chips and brush lube with veg oil

 

robert, tested your settings, everything worked really well on the first part until i tried to profile it out. it got stuck and pulled out of position. is this a feed issue or maybe i need higher tool speeds for profiles?
anyways thank you for the confidence/advice on my first metal cut. kinda gutted the profile is bad, rest of it looks pretty good(well outta 4 small holes and 1 big, 1 small could be better and the big is a much smoother cut on one side than the other (like the x+ y+ corner looks a little shabby))
really hopeful for this now and not as long as id have though either
thanx
mevo

 

What type of end mill are you using?

Your feed may be a little fast still for your setup or your end mill gummed up

Really no one can give you a true feed /speed setting because in the diy world every mill is different.
Your best bet it to play with the settings and find what works for you.

 

Could we put something like this together which can also move farther in the z-axis? Be it the stage or head that is moving. We want to use it with a MIG welder to create a make-shift metal printer. Not sure if it would be easier to maintain control of movement with the welder or the bed minding the change of weight due to the metal deposition. We are looking for a design that is already out there which we can build easily, is rigid, and can customize slightly to work with the welder.

We would really appreciate any help!

 

hi
im using a 3mm carbide i bought on ebay-
"3MM - Carbide End Mill Square End 3 Flute TiAln Xi 55HRC"
i tried a few more times slightly shallower, slightly slower, climb, conventional etc, and got similar results(pockets cut well then on profile 3rd or 4th pass the tool "bites" in and gets stuck before going on a rampage through the part)
will the dremel take this kinda abuse? will routy?
would more power in the steppers help?
sorry for all the questions, but im starting to go through quite a bit of aluminium
my main question(if you ignore all others please tell me this) why are profiles behaving so differently from the rest of the cut? are they harder?
thnx
mevo

 

hi
this would work provided you used a longer leadscrew and piece of extrusion for z axis. my problem is the actual carriage doesnt move so youd be at risk of hitting it with your model after a bit of height
thnx
mevo

 

Hey All,
I'm unable to open the build plans for the Routy, is that just because I'm on my phone (comp still in box somewhere from move) or is there a program/app I need to read the file?

*Edit, believe I've worked it out that I need SketchUp.

Q2, Is it as simple as buying the cnc-usb-controller-mk2-4 or alike and downloading the software and using your computer as the interface to control the "Routy" to set your zero points?

Thanks
M.Ellis

 

It's a Sketchup file, but without knowing what kind of phone you have, I have no idea what you can do to open it.

 

Here: http://www.sketchup.com/products/sketchup-mobile-viewer

 

Just wanted to let people know I have laid in an extensive supply of Openbuild parts at Opensourceluthiersupply.com. Check out our site. Thanks