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GRANITE 1.0

Discussion in 'CNC Mills/Routers' started by Michael.M, Sep 29, 2018.

  1. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    From what I understand, it's the top of the sensor on the "X". They're nice and compact. 15441457768187543605866724642766.jpg
     
  2. CNCMD

    CNCMD Journeyman
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    Well as usual keep us posted. Tonight I upgraded all my limit switches to much more beefy Temco Brand ones, that have an adjustable arm.

    The issues I was having was I was drilling and tapping the holes in them which was stressing the plastic and therefore causing the casing to crack and over time they were failing, one by one.
     
  3. CNCMD

    CNCMD Journeyman
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    Here is what they look like.

    20181206_221732.jpg
     
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  4. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    Those are nice looking switches
     
  5. CNCMD

    CNCMD Journeyman
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    Thanks, I'm very content with these. Very solid construction. $20 for 3 of them. All metal construction. I was able to mount them without any major modifications to the machine, and only lost a few mm in travel. The can be wired NO or NC. I'm running NC in the event a something goes bad.

    I honestly didn't want to have to run any additional wires.
     
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  6. GrayUK

    GrayUK Openbuilds Team Elder
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    They look very substantial. Nice find.
    I'll keep these in mind.
    Can you put a post/reference into the Resources section for these?
    Cheers
     
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  7. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    I'm not sure if you're talking about the inductive sensors or the Temco switches but I'll add an eBay link to the sensors.
     
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  8. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    So I did some testing and these sensors do trigger with aluminum. They have to be very close. I wanted to also say that anyone who uses these should make their "trigger" object so it passes over the top of the sensor as opposed to a trigger that would approach directly at the sensor. This is to prevent the machine from actually crashing in to the sensor during a fast move. Anyway, these little sensors are pretty slick and their almost completely protected from chips & coolant. There are a couple ways to install them but you just have to make sure and protect your controller. I will be using an inline diode. Hayri (Phoenix CNC controller designer) recommended these to me and the price is very affordable. DSCN2453.JPG DSCN2450.JPG DSCN2447.JPG
     
  9. GrayUK

    GrayUK Openbuilds Team Elder
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    Why an "inline diode"?
     
  10. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    To allow safe operation of these switches @ 12-24v
     
    #130 Michael.M, Dec 9, 2018
    Last edited: Dec 9, 2018
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  11. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    The switches operate just fine by themselves at that voltage range but my controller (essentially an Arduino uno) can't handle this voltage on this circuit. This is what Hayri recommended.
     
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  12. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    PL-05N_switch_5.jpg
    These sensors have 3 wires. Here's the recommended Arduino UNO wiring diagram using the 1N4148 diode.
     
  13. CNCMD

    CNCMD Journeyman
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    There is a multiplier for these sensors based on the metal type. For aluminum you multiply the base distance, 5mm by .04 = 2mm trigger for aluminum.
     
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  14. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    Hey thanks dude. I plan on making these adjustable but I am wondering if aluminum chips can trigger the sensor. For the most part, my X and Y axis will be protected. I actually need to be working on protective covers for the Z axis rails.
     
  15. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    So I was trying to figure out what it would take to install those red inductive sensors and they were actually going to require some teardown and modification of some parts. This is mainly because of the sensor detection area in relation to how they need to be mounted. I found a lower profile version of the same sensor on Amazon. They are more expensive but, at this point, I really don't want to tear this machine apart any more. I just decided to spend the money to avoid this. There are cheaper versions of this low profile sensor on eBay but they would be on the slow boat from China. Also, these new sensors have a detection area in a better location for my purpose. 15448823892472579483521541197322.jpg 15448826170175636430085058379082.jpg
     
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  16. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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  17. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    Installed the limit sensors this weekend. Unfortunately I had to disassemble half the machine to make clearance for them. It's become a fair amount of work to do so I hope this is the last time I need to tear it down.
    DSCN2525.JPG DSCN2480.JPG DSCN2481.JPG DSCN2482.JPG DSCN2486.JPG DSCN2488.JPG DSCN2489.JPG DSCN2492.JPG DSCN2494.JPG DSCN2495.JPG DSCN2496.JPG DSCN2509.JPG DSCN2514.JPG DSCN2515.JPG
     
  18. Julius

    Julius Well-Known
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    Beautiful build. Amazing linear block plates.
     
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  19. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    Thank you Julius. Happy Holidays!
     
  20. CNCMD

    CNCMD Journeyman
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    Nice work buddy! I had fun yesterday with full disassembly of my Z Axis. I made a new mounting plate so that I could get some additional clearance. My plan is to get a true 4" vise on the table and stop messing around lol.
     
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  21. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    Awesome dude! I made my z axis back plate with a series of holes to allow for adjustment. How is that low profile milling vise working for you?
     
  22. CNCMD

    CNCMD Journeyman
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    It's a decent low profile vise. I've been using it a good amount lately.
     
  23. Todd B

    Todd B New
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    Hi Michael,
    One question: why did you choose to mount the guides on top of the Y-axis C-beam, as opposed to the outer sides? Rigidity, travel limits, assy?
    If the guides are mounted on the outer side of the Y-axis C-beam, the ball-screws would move out a bit, but also potentially save 2 parts. I think?

    Edit: Looking closer I may have a guess - the guide blocks would hit the ball screw? Please correct me.

    -Todd
     
    #143 Todd B, Feb 11, 2019
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2019
  24. Michael.M

    Michael.M Veteran
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    Hi Todd,
    So the machine design changed a couple times before I actually built it. I was trying to bring the centerline of the spindle back towards the center of the Y axis linear carriage blocks (which I didn't completely accomplish). So if you look at the X plate ,that the Z axis mounts to, you can see it rides very close to the extrusion behind it. If I had placed the X linear rail facing forward, the spindle and Z axis would be located with more "stickout". Also, the lower X axis is actually facing forward but it is stepped back from the upper extrusion to support what I mentioned above. It's a little hard for me to explain all of this but I think it will work out.
     
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  25. HuguesP

    HuguesP Well-Known
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    hello Michael i was wondering how this machine is going with the time, i feel like i need to build something and your machine seems a great source of inspiration!
     
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  26. Elias Martinelli

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    Help
    Do you have the CAD Files and Part list, I`m really impressed about this build and want to build it too!
     
  27. H@wk

    H@wk New
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    I agree Elias. This is an awesome machine. Looking forward to the CAD files.
     
  28. Gabor Czvikovszky

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    Hello Michael,
    Its a professional approach, I am sure it works precisely. If there is anything you would change for the next project please let me know. I am about to make a similar machine. Thanks for the support. Cheers Gabor
     
  29. micklen

    micklen New
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    Really like this build! Looks very rigid. Have you cut aluminium with this machine?
    Wonder what the maximum working area and hight is?
    Planning to build my first CNC and think this one is what I´m looking for.
     
  30. nocturnalit

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    What size are the extrusions on the X rail?
     

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