ran a program and goes in material .5 inches and machine says 2.78 millimeters which is .109 did it with openload software and usg I set bit a piece of paper away from material top and zeroed it out and goes in .5 inches im doing something wrong please help me
Hi Chad, Sounds like your "steps per mm" is not correct You are using GRBL? post your $$ settings and tell us about your machine, screw drive? belt drive? what type of screws/belts pulley... Gary
openbuilds control v1.1.144 $0=10 (step pulse, usec) $1=255 (step idle delay, msec) $2=0 (step port invert mask:00000000) $3=6 (dir port invert mask:00000110) $4=1 (step enable invert, bool)(Board V1, V2, V3 Matte = $4=0 - Glossy board V3 = $4=1) $5=0 (limit pins invert, bool) $6=0 (probe pin invert, bool) $10=1 (status report mask:00000010) $11=0.020 (junction deviation, mm) $12=0.002 (arc tolerance, mm) $13=0 (report inches, bool) $20=0 (soft limits, bool) $21=0 (hard limits, bool) $22=1 (homing cycle, bool) $23=3 (homing dir invert mask:00000000) $24=100.000 (homing feed, mm/min) $25=1000.000 (homing seek, mm/min) $26=250 (homing debounce, msec) $27=5.000 (homing pull-off, mm) $30=1000 (Maximum spindle speed, RPM) $31=0 (Minimum spindle speed, RPM) $32=0 (Laser-mode enable, boolean) $100=26.667 (x, step/mm) $101=26.667 (y, step/mm) $102=199.100 (z, step/mm) $110=10000.000 (x max rate, mm/min) $111=10000.000 (y max rate, mm/min) $112=2500.000 (z max rate, mm/min) $120=150.000 (x accel, mm/sec^2) $121=150.000 (y accel, mm/sec^2) $122=150.000 (z accel, mm/sec^2) $130=824 (x max travel, mm) $131=1280 (y max travel, mm) $132=122 (z max travel, mm)
Are you able to jog it around by sending it a command like : G0 X100? And if you can, does it go 100 mm?
Also, what was your program? Something simple like trying to cut a square, or something really complicated like a part you designed? Do you have a V-bit?
Ok. I was wondering because the V-bit makes calibrating easier. Can you cut and paste the gcode you used into this thread? If it is a super long code for something complicated, then make code for a simple 100x100mm square with only a 1mm depth of cut and try it.
double check your micro-step jumper on the z axis channel of the xpro4 should be a jumper across pin sets 1 and 2
jumpers are on 1 and 2 on all axises every time I home this machine and go to 0 I have a different measurement a difference of 5.6 mm from home machine to back to zero on work piece than re zero and back on work piece is 5.59 mm then re home again -.30 weird
After home, you should have 5mm of "pulloff" as set $27, could be negative or positive, depending on where your home is. Are you loosing steps? did you adjust the current pots? Might need to turn those up to get reliable motion, binding wheels or eccentrics too tight will not help. Cheers Gary
I cant get the binding wheels to stop I took out 2 bearings and hit them with a hammer sandwiched between 2 board and the same out come I have $27 set to 5mm never adjusted pots didn't want to mess with anything without getting proper instructions I almost ready to pull out my hair
I have never used the home function so I can't speak to it. In fact in the three years I have been using mine, I have never finished hooking up the homing/limit switches. I put a work piece down, zero x,y, and z where I want the program to start, then I start the program. Why not try that with a simple 100 mm by 100 mm square? Do not worry about homing. Just fasten down some scrap, zero the machine where you want it zeroed as per the part you want cut, and then cut that simple 100 mm square. It would provide a lot of information for trouble shooting especially if you take pictures so we can see it. If it works, cut a circle. If it is a circle, great! if it is an oval, you may have belts or pullys loose.
You need to adjust the pots to get reliable motion, turn up the current (clockwise) until you get reliable motion. Try a quarter turn on all axis to start, if the motors get real hot back off a bit, real hot is when you can't hold the motor with bare hands. Are the wheels hard to turn when not in the extrusion? (just bolted to the plate) You did confirm the washers are in-between the bearings. Relax it's a learning curve with any new machine or system. Also make sure to use blue loctite on your pulley and z coupler set-screws, those things work loose and you will fight imprecision all day. Cheers Gary
I hardly ever use home either, but it can be a good practice, you can find your work zero position again if you always reference off home, even after a crash. (just don't crash )
I made my machine too big. I never crash. Ok, maybe I crash sometimes, but only when sending a manual command like G0 Y10000. The extra zero 0 has got me a few times. That is what the e-stop is for, right?
Not hard to move when not in the aluminum the wheels ill adjust the pots tommorrow. What else needs blue lock tight? All this info would have been nice in the video. I been fighting this since sunday. Also all washers and spacers are in the right place. I have checked more than 6 times because i thought might be the problem. I even unbolted everything from the wheels and made sure not over tightened
Whats chances of defective plates of the wheels? Is they a way to measure them? Guy on facebook suggested it
If you put the plates on and the wheels need to be tightened up with eccentrics, the plates are fine. The eccentrics have to be carefully tightened to get them just right. Slowly tighten the two outer wheels first until you can turn the wheels on the v-slot with a little bit of force. then slowly get the middle ones tightened up to the same amount. If you get one tightened all the way up before doing the others, it will get tighter. It is a painstaking process. On a belted system like a 1510, you should be able to move the gantry around by hand with a little force. If not, you have your wheels too tight. The eccentrics are used to snug them up until you need a little effort to spin them in place on the v-slot. They are not supposed to be cranked to their maximum tightness. When I built my machine, I made sure that all my wheels on the top of the gantry made equal contact with the top of the v-slot before tightening the eccentrics. There is a chance that when assembling the gantry cart, it had a minute twist in it since the holes are all slightly larger than 5 mm. This could cause some wheels to be slightly loose while the others were tight. Go to 47:40 in this video.
