Sounds like myOX on an even bigger scale. Great to see I'm not alone heading for larger than the norm travel in X, Y and Z.

If you have a Princess Auto nearby, check out the split cable loom they have for sale (at least at this end of Canada). 25' for 1/4" at only 4.99$. They have many diameters, price increasing along the way. But still way cheaper than what I could get from the Internet (with shipping, etc.)

I really need to get my BOM proper to post, eh ?

 

A heads up as I'm going through it now : the X grantry plates will need to be reworked, especially the front one to give your Z a sturdy stance. I'm off to SketchUP to play with a few ideas already mentioned to Mark and a few others. I will need myOX in a functional state to bring to life my ideas ... Looking forward to yours.

 

Check out the few pics I posted in my build (myOX).

I run the far Y stepper wiring through the X V-slot so it's out of sight. The X and Z wiring runs through loom, each in their own with both running parallel in a ... what's it called ... chain track ? The one I got off Amazon is a bit small, just enough room for the two 1/4" loom. I'm still scratching my head as to how I will run the wiring for the limit switches as they most likely are the ones which will be sensitive to interference. I have the AC cord of router zip tied to the "chain track". Wish I went for a wider version which opens along it's length.

 

Although most people forget, you should notify the shipping/transport company of the damage, especially if you see a problem before unwrapping ("as received"). It is normally done when you sign for receipt. Unfortunately, often these packages are just left on the front porch. I once received a computer monitor which stayed all day out in the sun, it had rained the day before. Lucky for me I was in town that week ...

Of course, if the shipper does a poor job of packaging, the rough and tumble treatment received in transit will become problematic.

I have dealt with, let's see, OpenBuild, Luther and, on Canadian side, Protodrake with no issues (other than delays due frequent out of stock situation). Shipping was done by ... USPS, UPS and Canada Post ... maybe Purolator as well - this relating to (small) V-slot shipments, so weight was easier to handle by all along the way.

 

I'm trying to get into the habit of taking pictures, especially with packages coming from China : as received & being unpacked. If all is fine, it's an easy delete off the digital camera. Often, the supplier or the transport company will ask for these as proof. The fine print from transport companies usually mentions the signature means all is good unless noted with signature ... then you can't touch the package until an inspection is done... As if anyone, especially the driver, had the time to wait for someone to unpack and inspect ...

From your pictures, the package seems heavy. If it was dropped or bounced around during transit, it is bound to get damaged and damage a few other packages along the way. Gorilla tape holds pieces together and maybe protects from scratches ... The stiff cardboard usually misses the corners. So far, all shipments of V-slot received were bubble wrapped, with double layer of cardboard wrap, sometimes also with stiff cardboard on long edges, with everything in a cardboard box. But I usually get only couple lengths at a time, so everything is relatively light as well.

At least the seller is being understanding and doing something to help out. The pictures taken, even if after unwrapping, are helping. Depending which lengths of V-slot was damaged (corners), ask for at least a discount. Not sure if the you can adjust for the bow (ex: doubled X axis might tension back ?) In any case, ask for an RMA to return the lengths which you can't use, use the same packaging material and cheapest rate ...

Is the bow closer to an end then the middle of lengths ? Maybe you could make a shorter OX, if that is acceptable. But then a discount would be worth getting. In addition to your V-slot, everybody sometimes need to bend a little.

I would try to follow up with the transport company ASAP. They count on fact most people don't say anything because it will take too much time and probably lead no where anyways.

 

Hi,
in my book even 1mm is not acceptable.
As all diversions and "play", runout of nut, rounout of your routerbit etc. adds up in the end you will never be satisfied with a 1..2..or even 5mm bent to start with.
Imagine a large part cut where preciseness matters for ex. a rc-plane fuselage wich would be 5mm twisted - simply unflyable and thus worthless.
Even when building for fun you are trying to build a cnc.
Accuracy within 1/2 mm are doable even by hand -ok repeatability suffers.
If i was you i would send it back- not to put you off - justvoiced my opinion
good luck with your build.

Flo

 

When you hit the edit button underneath your build writeup and go down and click on the body section to edit, just add the update underneath what you already have in there before hitting Save Changes. No need to overwrite anything, and nothing in the build should affect the discussion as far as I'm aware. I had no problems editing my build writeup.

 

@asb_79 did a run of water jet cut ox plates that turned out nicely (I bought a set) and mentioned having to run drill bits through the eccentric holes. The water jet process seems to produce a 'v' shaped kerf on 6mm plate.

Looking at the drawing for the eccentric, it gives just under +/-0.8mm of movement. If you have eccentric holes that are 0.6mm oversize then of course you lose that +/-0.3mm from your adjustment. Personally I've found I need around 80-90% of the eccentric adjustment to get the fit snug.

Lastly (and I'm not doubting your ability, just thought I should ask), have you measured the hole on both sides of the same plate? The kerf shape produced will give you a larger hole on one side than the other as the water jet has a conical shape to it. If it is a good fit on at least one side of the plate then you shouldn't have too many problems.

 

The approach taken by the system is to temporarely make an updated version of the build. When you save it, the previous version needs to be replaced for all to see the updates... I was a bit taken by the message as well at first, thinking it would replace everything about the build. Having done a few updates so far, it's all working out just fine (so far). Unchanged aspects, including the discussion threads which could change as you update the rest, are not ill affected by the process.

 

One of the side effects of waterjet cutting is the Kerf produced. If you assemble the eccentrics on the jet exit side (I think) the hole is smaller and will result in a better fit. I worked closely with the supplier I used to ensure that the holes were slightly undersized at the jet exit. This allows the correctly sized drills to be run through the plate to ensure a snug fit with the screws and eccentrics.

If you have holes that are too large and you run out of eccentric adjustment one possible solution is to drill the 5mm holes to 9/32 and use eccentrics on the top side also (to close the gap). You'll need to take some care to set them square but it may save the plates you've had made.

Another thing I did when I assembled my gantry's was to clamp the top row of wheels between two pieces of v-slot to ensure they were all in alignment.

Good luck with your build.
Anthony