Peter I am struggling to find the jumper for the relay output selection in the schematics.
Am I just missing it or it really not there?

Also, what are the relay output specs?
I want to use it for a vacuum cleaner (-:

 

David, You talking about this one?

• Up to 24v 5A switched output for coolant devices such as 24v DC pumps, solenoids, contactors, or Solid State Relays

Would need to use it to switch on/off SSR for a vac system.
Gary

 

no, there is a physical relay on the board that can be driven from either the spindle enable or the coolant enable pins (I did find the bit of circuit I was missing with the jumpers .

I have just watched the assembly video carefully and I see it is marked 10A 250VAC (the relay is blue) . I will have to check my vacuum ratings, IIRC it is 2000 watts which is over 9 amps at 220V, too close for comfort. I will have to look at an external relay and that 24v output is just perfect for that. I will use the relay for the Makita spindle instead.

 

Checkout J8 under the Connectors section of the Brains schematic



Relay specs: SRD-05VDC-SL-A

See attached Datasheet. In terms of PCB layout, its not officially designed for Mains (clearances etc)
I'd recommend taking the 24v output from the Coolant header (mosfet inside, 5A) and running that output to an IOT Relay (for folks in 110v land) or a SSR/Contactor (in 220v land) instead - SSR will help, optically isolated

 

thanks Peter, I did eventually realize what I was looking at (-:

thanks for the clarity. I think an SSR is just the thing for this. especially since I already have a few.

 

I just got mine in in the mail today. I am debating what I should use it for. I got a K40 and was going to do some upgrades, but I am thinking of trying to make a lathe with off the shelf only OB parts so anyone can copy it. Hmmm...

 

Got mine yesterday. What do the status LEDs on the motors actually mean? I thought I saw it discussed recently but couldnt find the post. Nothing in the docs either.

Anyhooo, I have one motor connected to X. The Z led is red. X, Y and Y2 arent lit. X motor isnt energized. I have double checked the connections with a volt meter. If I plug the motor back into my DQ542MA it works fine.

I have verified 24v at the xconnector. Fan comes on. Power LED doesnt light up when the power is on. EDIT. I took the side panel off an one of the green LEDs for the power does light up. You just cant tell with the side panel on because its too dim (because there's only one lit?)

What else should I check?

 

Hey, that one red warrning is a potential problem reach out to http://support.openbuilds.com/support/home and they'll sort it out in no time

Will add a icons page to the FAQ tomorrow for you

Check that you have a machine profile loaded. If not, at least set $4=1

 

I did forget to change $4=1. I had just copied my settings that I used with the arduino and dq542mas. So, after changing that, the Z led isnt red anymore, but now the Y2 one is. Still no power to the motor. I do now see a light for the stepper motor icon which I dont think was lit before.

 

So sorry to hear! Reach out to http://support.openbuilds.com/support/home and they'll get a replacement out asap

 

Use the PWM pin right next to it, its the default grbl 0-5v PWM (add a 10uF cap to smooth PWM into voltage)

(PS answer is generic in nature, your image is too low a resolution to make out)

 

Not quite, as its used to switch the mosfet that takes L low (LOW = enable the PSU) - which you can reassign

Use the PWM pin and add a 10uF cap, take the output to 0-5v Input Power.

For the L input (Enable) You have a couple options:

- Use the Spindle Direction pin (Add mosfet to invert signal as per diagram or edit source to invert the signal (L=active LOW)
- Use the Cooling pin (Send M8 to enable the Laser and M9 to disable at the end of the job)(BlackBox has an onboard mosfet already, put L into the [-] (negative) pin of the screw terminal it will pull it to GND)
- Wire L to a physical switch (keyswitch on or off safety)
- Parallel the PWM pin to the Mosfet (with a diode and cap to keep it on through the off part of the PWM pulse too)

0v into the 0-5v input = no beam even when L is LOW (Enabled)

 

U

Officially no. The fan, for example, is 24v max.

 

After a bit of a false start (bad muscle board), I've been running this thing for 2 solid days and its performing great. I have a customized workbee 1510. On the Y axis' I'm running high torque motors with 1/2" lead screws. The only issue is that my 1/2" lead screws prefer my 48v setup as opposed to the Blackbox 24v so I had to adjust my rapids on the Y down from 10,000mm to 7,000mm. The probe led was a nice touch. Setup/install was a breeze. You guys should be proud of yourselves. It really is a no-brainer for the standard OB machines.

I know its not supported, but if I swap out the 24v fan for a 36v, can I run 36v?

 

Is there the potential to throw a resistor in line with the 24v fan and make it work on 36V? If so how big?

 

Personally i'd just get a 60x10x10mm 36v fan with a 2 pin plug. But again, officially, 24v max.

 

Digikey, Ali, ebay, etc? Havent looked as 36v isnt on the planned spec

 

The next batch (v2.5) has been with the factory for a couple days already, probably about 2 more weeks or so