Check myOX. I have it on a workbench with a "topless" portion. For now, it has an 8" or so Z. Once I'm comfortable with 2.5D (the usual 1" or so of depth), worked out how to make Z nice and rigid, the top comes off and I'll start reaching for the floor (having changed the Z length along the way).

I'm just starting, so I might be dreaming a bit here. However, it looks like it can work with a redesign of the Z and maybe X to get the precision on the way down (or up).

 

hey
how much movement do you guys have in your toolhead when stationary? i have a tiny "wobble" if i grab the end(spindle off obv.) seems to be comming from where z meets x, but its so tiny i cant really tell. makes a tiny click when wobbled. is this normal? if not any ideas on fixing it?
thnx
mevo

 

Hi Everybody,

I was considering buying a Shapeoko2 kit but I just came across the "Routy" design and I think it's really great!

I'd really like to build one but have a few questions:
- I'm interested in starting at the standard size and then possibly making the bed size larger, I assume the only limiting factor is the length of the V-slot rails available and also possible stiffness issues (which could be overcome)?
- What is the best/cheapest way for me to order the components and have the delivered to NEW ZEALAND?
- Would this machine be capable of full 3D (3 axis) machining, provided I can produce the necessary CAM/G-Code?

Thanks in advance,

Jeremy

 

Hi Jeremy,

I am not sure there is a distributor in New Zealand but you could try contacting http://www.makerstore.com.au in Victoria, Australia to enquire about the shipping costs etc. of the parts you require.

Tweakie.

 

g

- Yes. I've just build a 2.3m x 1.5m Openbuilds Ox-based unit. There isn't really a 'standard' size, though. It's no more difficult to build a 1.5M x 1.5M unit than a 750mm x 1000mm. And the price difference is just a few dollars for the extra extension length and the shipping. Stiffness is an issue with long extrusions - I have a table made from solid 18mm MDF sheets that would withstand a Christchurch earthquake without moving. To that, the CNC is screwed down to 4x2 'rails' using 90deg aluminium 'corners'. It isn't going anywhere in a hurry.

- Robocutters in the UK will send out up to 2.3M lengths. - but long lengths of extrusion and cheap aren't words that go together when you live on the other side of the world. There are methods of joining extrusion, but you need to be very accurate. Openbuilds parts store won't sell anything longer than 750mm overseas. Just checked on Robocutters - 2x2M 2060 and 2x2.3M 2080 comes to 126 quid and 125 quid shipping to Australia. It won't be much more, if anything, to NZ. One thing to make sure - only order v-track for bearing surfaces - all other extrusion source locally.

- Yes/No. Depends what you're cutting. Poly foam, no problem. 12mm Aluminium, no.

If you want a big and robust CNC that can machine metal in 3D, this isn't the droid you are looking for, but it is much, much better than the Shapeoko, which is expensive and lightweight - good for making PCBs and cutting plastics and stuff using a dremel.

FWIW I am making another CNC right now using the Routy design, I'm having to import everything here, too (SE Asia) so I can give you an idea of the costs- although I have a lot of extrusion - I bought double what I needed when I made my Ox - up to the shipping limit. PM me your email address and we can share stuff - I don't get on here much - the load times just do my head in.

 

Thanks for your reply's @Zootalaws and @Tweakie,

I have decided to build the Ox machine which looks slightly sturdier but obviously similar to Routy. I would like to try cutting some ligh aluminium sheet, maybe 5mm.

I also contacted makerstore.com.au seeing that they were the closest supplier, they have been very helpful and quoted a very reasonable $90 aud shipping for all four of the required extrusions.

J

 

I cut 12.7 mm aluminum with my routy. It fits on my desk and does small parts about the size of a piece of paper. I'd like to make OX plates and reuse the routy parts to go to a bigger build area but I'll need a separate table for it. If I were you, I'd consider the max build size you need and then consider the speed with which you want to crank out parts. Even on an OX, cutting aluminum will be slow.

 

Hi Jeremy,

Good choice! You will need some aluminium or such plates made - I can recommend @asb_79 for that (Anthony - he is in Melbourne). I bought my plates (and z-axis anti-backlash nuts, z-axis screw and all my GT3 belting and steppers) from Anthony and they are quality bits of kit. Just a pity that he developed the cool, coloured, anodised parts after I bought my plain jane brushed alloy ones.

I just recently upgraded my Ox to double-belting, where you glue a 'track' of GT3 belt face-up in the channel for your drive belt to act against. It is a simple and effective mod, especially if you have long runs, like I do. It means that you wont get the stretch (and worse, the spring effect) from long runs of GT3. So definitely double your belt order - and some. The advantage to double-belting is you don't need much to hold your belt in place - it is almost impossible to pull it out of its retention. I have bought some belt retainers, but at the moment it has a cable tie holding it on and it doesn't slip -it just cant.

Other mods? Strengthen the gantry if you are going over 1M - it flexes like a mofo. It is the one area of complaint I have in an otherwise happy build. If I had my way, I would definitely re-engineer it to be sturdier. I have just (the other day) put my gantry back together again after drilling and tapping about 12 screws right through the two pieces of aluminium. Hopefully it does the job, if not - dunno what I will do then. Maybe have to shorten my x-axis.

 

I stand corrected. The Routy looks to be much more robust than I thought. I am actually building one right now for a friend.

 

Wouldn't a piece of Plain Steel flat bar across the back of X sure it up? Something like this? http://goo.gl/m8oSuY

Just drill some holes into the V-Rail and screw/bolt that on after you drill the same holes in the bar and I think it would sure it up nicely but then the weight will drastically increase but the cost of the bar is dirt cheap and almost 2 meters long too.

 

Dirt cheap where? If I could find it, it might be worth a look - but there is no supply of any kind of metal plate here. You can't even buy a machine screw in this country, let alone a piece of straight steel bar.

And, I don't think there is 1/8" clearance between the x-axis gantry and the back of the extrusion to fit a plate into.

 

Then I guess it would require a modification for the .125 in clearance that would be needed.

edit: btw, sorry I didn't get back sooner but this forum no longer tells me when a reply comes to any watched thread I have in that status. I am not sure why it doesn't. Oh, it does maybe once in a blue moon but not when it should.

 

Both boxes are checked and has been checked but the forum most always ignores it but not always. Really weird issue and as you see it just told me I had a reply on here but didn't previously.

 

I am not in a position to modify the 6mm steel gantry plates to accommodate adding additional bracing - perhaps you should take it up with the designer - he should look at all the complaints of flexing and amend their design.

 

If it were a spam filter it would always do it. No biggie if I miss a few replies it will catch up eventually.

 

After a delay for Christmas and to finish my Ox, I have started on the Routy build - but straight away I can see how the parts list/BOM doesn't match the design.

The only screws in the BOM are 8mm and 15mm - but the first part I came to build, the Z-axis assembly, needs 40mm screws and then the X-axis is going to need what looks like 55mm screws to tie the two plates together over the top of the gantry and wheels.

The BOM says it needs 2x precision shims - I've just used 8 putting the Y-axis plates and wheels together.

So, I went back to the Sketchup file - and straight away you can see quite major components missing from the BOM - like the T-junction 7-hole plates that tie the gantry cross-beam to the uprights.

If you are going to build this, beware - the BOM is missing a whole lot of components, which for someone like me that has to import every last item, it has now become apparent that I now need to wait another 4 weeks or so while my update order is processed and shipped.

Perhaps I was naive, relying on the designers BOM to act as the basis for the order, but I have ordered machines before based on the BOM and found it was accurate. It's a bit of a pisser to find out at this late stage that the BOM is so far out from the build.

 

Yet another newbie screwed over by the original poster with a lame BOM. Welcome to the club!

 

I'll second that. My machine is a bit of a black sheep. Very wobbly gantry because of the improvised parts. I had to make due with I'll be building something of my own making next time round.

 

I have to get back to my routy build have been working on my website Opensourceluthiersupply.com and have let this project slide. I am doing a inventory reduction sale on Openbuild parts for the month of Febuary I have a lot of parts in stock. I need to use some for myself!

 

Check out my OXcalculator. It's not for the Routy, more for a 'reference' OX, but the BoM it generates is more complete and, with time, should allow for 'options' like the type of gantry plates, etc. The link is in my signature down below.

 

'Inventory reduction sale' and 'V-slot' almost seems like an ... OXymoron (sorry, I just could not resist that one ).

I'll have to go check it out ...

 

I don't have a lot of rail in stock but have lots of other parts. The way the site is set up if you can order it it is in stock. If you go over what I have it will prompt you. Go to the blog or announcements for the discount code. Best Bill

 

I just finished breaking apart the Belt and Pinion_Mini Router_16.skp model, I included the Parts List I came up with.

I did my best not to miss anything, but when breaking apart the model if your not careful some small and 'hidden' parts go with the part deleted (deleting parts makes for an easier view of what has not been added to the Parts List). I MAKE NO GUARANTEES ON A PERFECT LIST!!! The most difficult parts to get correct are the SCREWS! (the model will give ~9mm and ~10mm for some of the screws)

Suggest that anyone following this list buy an extra bag of each size screw on the list, the extra money spent should alleviate any frustration and extra shipping costs.

Please add/remove parts that you feel necessary, also add notes as to your opinions on anything that will make this list as complete and informative as possible.

So lets see if we can bury this dead horse, its been beaten to a bloody pulp!

P.S.

I didn't add WEB LINKS for the parts, it would make ordering much easier but I'm a little 'mouse clicked' out.

Also, for those who haven't downloaded the Belt and Pinion_Mini Router_16.skp, it is invaluable in helping build the ROUTY.

 

I only hope that open builds pays attention and updates the "official" BOM they have. This isn't the first time the list has been corrected but sadly I just don't think the give a #@!?

My advice to others would be read all through forum before building but seeing as how this post is on page 19 doubt that will happen.

Kudos to you for correcting however. I tip my hat to u.

 

Luckily I went through the sketchup model before I made any decisions to order parts as I hadn't gotten this far into the discussion. One thing I'd like to add to akcnez's parts list is the size of extrusions needed to purchase to get what you need. His list contains the cut pieces but not what size to order to get to those cut pieces. 20 x 40 you need 3 @ 1000mm. 20 x 60 you need 1 @ 1500mm and 1 @ 500mm, and 20x80 you need 1 @ 1000mm. Just makes the ordering a little easier.

 

Hi, I would like to buy a kit. Please don't tell me I have to sit down and put everything into the online shop. Half of the stuff is not available anyway. You guys at openbuilds make it real hard to spend money on you. So can you send me such a kit, then I call you and give you my CC number. Thanks!