new x-ends
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:424201

 

While on night shift I had some time to work on an all metal extruder idea I have in my nerd, so far, so good

 

We'll here it is, now just a waiting game on the filament gear


All assembled

 

Hi, I'm thinking of making a Lautr3k but I have problems with the lead screws. I found these on the web for Moore, I think they may be equivalent. I would like to know your opinion. Thanks!

http://www.mooreinternational.co.uk/category-18/SPEEDYINCHT12.8-35.6.html

 

What Infill % is best when printing parts???

 

Looking for someone to print parts for this build. Can't find anyone locally. I would gladly order the filament and ship it to you. Wanting a funky color. (Magenta!!)

 

Is there any reason you didn't use V-slots everywhere? Do you think that using only the lead screws from openbuilds store would work?

 

Are you printing parts in ABS or PLA???

Thanks
Scott

 

Who are you asking?

 

Skarab !

 

Cool, things get a bit messy in here from time.

 

Yes I make out well before motors stall at anything above 30mm a sec.
I'm looking to get 2 amp drivers and bump up to 24v with a rumba board

 

OK guys, I sent the parts stl's off to be printed, and the printer thinks that some of the parts might need quantities of more than one. The BOM that I saw dealt with the parts other than the plastic pieces, so does anyone have quantities of each printed parts list? He is printing, and wants to do it all together.
Thanks

 

http://reprap.org/wiki/Lautr3k_Build_Manual#Printed_Parts

 

Yep, I found I after I posted and went to the build manual. Duh. I'm guilty of premature posting.

 

Hi Folks!

Is there any way someone (Skarab???) could modify the "x carriage - nut side" and "y carriage" to fit the igus 10x25 lead screw nut??? It appears to have a slightly larger bolt pattern. I've included the .stl for the igus nut. (I'm not a CAD guy...yet! ;-)

For anyone interested, I've also attached the quote for 2 nuts and the 10x25 lead screw which is 1000mm long and will have to be cut and machined.

Thanks
Scott

 

What nema 17's are people from the states using? The motors in the BOM are really stout from the specs (compared to most I looked at and on the OB store). I already have one of the nema 17's from OpenBuilds store. If these will work well, I will just order 3 more. Thanks

 

OOPS, I did my conversion wrong. Thanks for the catch.

 

The ones in the "Parts" store are too long at 48mm for the two "Z" axis motors (40mm max) unless you raise the entire bed.

 

So I am looking for steppers. Having problems selecting the right motors. Can someone who is/has built this printer in the states make some suggestions?

 

Hello Digger,

I have a good working printer now.

First i used a Arduino and Ramps1.4 had troubles all the time and a LOT of noise.

Now I have since 3 month a RamBo board (http://reprap.me/electronic/rambo-v1-2.html)

Works perfect. you can adjust the motors Amp in Merlin software:

In "Configuration_Adv.h

// Motor Current setting (Only functional when motor driver current ref pins are connected to a digital trimpot on supported boards)
#define DIGIPOT_MOTOR_CURRENT {185,250,60,60,135} // Values 0-255 (RAMBO 135 = ~0.75A, 185 = ~1A)

I do have a complete configured Marlin file for you to start with.

I use Wantai Nema 17 motors 42BYGHW811

Machine is running just fine, last month over 100 hours

Greetings,
Dutchdreamer

 

Thanks guys. I will just continue my revenue streaming to Mark at the OB store

 

@skarab : I'm quite new to the world of 3D printing and I just have some basic questions about your awesome printer :

• Why did you choose to use lead screws for all axis ? I often see 3D printers which use lead screws on the Z axis (Lulzbot Taz 4, Prusa i3, etc.) but they often use belts for the others axis.
• What are your reasons for choosing the design "Y bed XZ head" and not "Z bed XY head", for example ? I'm planning to build a 3D printer and I'm esitating between these two common designs.

Thank's in advance.

 

Hi everybody,
hi skarab,

is there any proven way to build this printer without the lead screws from trinity lab?
I read all posts yesterday and there are serveral other lead screws mentioned here, but did anybody made a build with them?
Pictures? STL files?

Thanks in advance.

 

I don't know if it will work... but I ordered 2 of these:
http://www.robotdigg.com/product/236/Rapid-Threaded-Rod-Stepper-with-450mm-Tr8*20-Lead-Screw (cut to length 400mm)

I asked that the ends be machined with a diameter of 5mm. Not sure if I need to modify the STLs or not.. it will be a slow build for me