Ok sorry for the edit of my post, But I am interested in this setup. I have a sphinx half built and I would like the switch gears and follow your idea on the rails, So I have a couple of question. I would be interested in buying a set of your gantry plates would they be available from Mr laidlaw or a dxf file? And you used the standard end plates for the sphinx on the axis with 2 motors? And how is the setup with lead screw and the Anti backlash block? Was there a spacer? Thanks!
I am also super interested in this build! I would also like the dxf of the plates if you are willing. I am trying to figure out how/if I can fit ball screw into C beam or atleast T12 leadscrew. I have T8 on a workbee now and they seem flimsy.
My good, this machine is so sexy, i I had to do it again I would do mine like this. Do you think it could handle a 1.5kw spindle and mill Aluminium?
to be honest, I can’t see why it should not being able to handle it. But in December I will give it a try
Chris designed and machined the plates for me, and I am sure that he will list the complete plates kit in his EBay store soon. As about the DXF files, you should talk with him about it. For the anti backlash nut/lead screw, I used a 3D printed spacer, using a STL file that Chris also provided.
Awesome! I was hoping that was the case. I'll keep a eye on his Ebay store. Thanks for sharing your build!
For the one interested in the plates kit, Chris Laidlaw already have them available through his eBay store at the link below Deluxe Sphinx-55 CNC Rail Plate Set (seen at Openbuilds) | eBay
Chris does great work and a really friendly guy. Did you just screw the rails to the to the c beams? When I looked at doing something similar I seem to recall that base of the rails wasn’t much larger then the the gap of the c beam. (At the top of the chamfer if this makes sense) I also like the reversed z axis.
Yes, the rails are mounted with M3 screws, 8 mm length and with M3 T-Nuts, straight on top of the C -Beam. To be honest I had no issues doing that, except for the fact that I needed in total 140 M3 8mm screws and 140 M3 T-Nuts. To roughly center the rails on the C-Beam I used 3D printed spacers found at MGN12 Alignment Block by snicker and later I fine tuned the position of the rails using a dial indicator and a magnetic base, something similar to this item https://www.amazon.de/Flexible-Magn...&s=gateway&sprefix=Dial+,aps,214&sr=8-20&th=1
Chris is a .... sweetheart, and the idea to reverse the Z axis comes from him as well. Great person, excellent machinist and very inventive.
Cool. My concern is that the top opening of the c beam is about 9mm and this only leaves about 1.5mm on each side for the rail to have contact with the c beam. Perhaps this is plenty enough for it to be strong, I’m not a mechanical engineer. I was considering milling plates to mount the rails to but it’s a lot of plates to mill and a lot of holes to tap. /Andreas
I understand your point, but until now I got no signs of weakness from the linear rails assembly. I cutt through marine plywood at 4mm depth of cut, by mistake, and the machine didn’t complained at all. But there is always the option to go with MGN15, or even bigger, if you think that the MGN12 is not enough wide
Hi I am also looking at this build but would like to extend it to 1000mm x 1000mm with the linear rail kit and the 1.5kw spindle,just wondering if the 8mm lead screws will take it?
this is an awesome build! I accidentally tripped and fell in a rabbit hole when looking to upgrade my c-beam machine x-axis. I am now planning on building a sphinx style machine and really like this linear rail setup. I am new to linear rails in general and am a bit overwhelmed by all the brands, sources, china knock-offs, etc. can anyone suggest an affordable/reputable source for these mgn12 rails and bearing blocks? seems like options range from $400 to $1000+ depending on brand alone. what brand do people use or suggest for hobby-esque cnc builds? also, do the bearing blocks seal well enough to keep dust out? I plan on cutting mainly wood with this cnc router. my current c-beam machine is a dust generator and when attempting to rig up a dust shoe I quickly learned the x-axis was flimsy, hence the trip down the rabbit hole...
A couple people have converted their workbees to linear rails with these from Amazon. They are 15 mm but 12 mm are available as well. I bought them recently because I plan to modify my custom build CNC router.
Nice work !!!, im really interested in make the same build, i just looking arround and i like too much, ¿dou you have the full part list?, ¿did you try to cut aluminium yet?
Hi Chris, two questions. Which is the size of the real working area ? X / Y / Z -> 450x450mmx150mm ? Can you provide to me the stocklist for this machine ? Greetings from Germany Alidi-ntg
I'm also interested in this build. Is there any drawing of this build that is for sale? I have aluminium profiles from an industrial machine that I was going to use but it's not the same as you have.
How large of diameter screws do you think you could fit? I want to make something 1500x1500 so I think I should use larger ball screws.
Are four linear rails really necessary for the Y axis? I believe a lot of money can be saved for the same performance by going with a single linear rail with dual carriage on each of the Y axis.
Well more rigidity and symmetrical load on 2 rails and 4 blocks might give the impression each rail is more efficient at 50% of the load compared to one rail holding 100% of the load. Kind of like having 2 pair of the same work boots alternate every other day the 2 last longer then the one pair. Hey if you happen to try it let us know I would be interested to your solution how you mounted them. And see performance on one rail per side. Would mount it on top or on side? Personally I have a bad habit of doubling everything anyways.
I have doubled mine as well. I was making progress yesterday until I dropped one of my Y axis ends with 4 blocks mounted on it on the concrete floor. Then I spent the next two hours trying to find all the ball bearings that went flying.
Maybe someone can help me. I bought the kit from Chris and got my rails in but I'm confused by the several thick blocks that came with the plates. What do I do with them?
@Giarc - Wow! Did you get them all? I was wondering how hard it is to place the ball bearings back in. I have order my self for the Z and Y axis linear rails. Have a plan to convert to linear rails too. Except I am going to draw up and cut my own plates. Sphinx style and hoping my little 500w spindle last thru all these plates. @Matthiu - I am thinking those are the blocks the will bolt to the plate as a stand off for the lead screw Anti Blacklash nut block. Block with 2 5mm holes and a slot in middle.