Question for anyone using a TinyG and tgfx.... Would anyone be so kind as to send me a working gcode file that I can use to get a post processor wrote for my system please?

It has to be a working file for a Tinyg/tgfx combo.

It would greatly be appreciated.

Rich

 

@kram242 If I wanted to use mm spacers instead of inch ones, how would I have to set up the dual-wheel spacings for the X axis? 0,35mm difference between 1/4" and 6mm seem to be quite a lot if you want to position the wheels correctly.

Also I wonder what improvements the community suggested / made to the original design that you'd incorporate in an OxV2 .

 

Hi Robert H
Can you share with us how you bolted your two 20x60 X beams together. maybe a pic please.

 

I used M4 x 20 bolts, clamped both rails together nice and square.
Then drilled 4mm holes through the first beam then just scored the second "don't drill" just let the tip mark it.
Then un clamp and drill 3mm holes and tap for M4
Hope u get what I'm saying lol

 

Ive searched and read pretty much every post in here but still can't find the answer i am looking for. Is this gantry design rigid enough to adapt to a 150ox1500 machine?

 

In my experience a 1000mmx15000mm ox is not very ridgid at all. The weak spot is a long gantry (1000mm). Id do a 500mm x gantry in the future, maybe 750.

 

Did you drill through the flat hollow or through the slot ? How many M4x20 bolts did you use? Thanks

 

How can the shorter gantry be less rigid than the longer axis especially since it's doubled? (Yes, I do realize the longer one is also doubled - one on each side ).

I was thinking about doing two 20x80 x1000 instead of 20x60 x1000 for the shorter gantry to make it more rigid. Would that help?

 

I drilled the middle slot of the 20x60, the bolt heads are hidden in the rail slot
Used 5xM4 one middle, one each end then one in the centre left and right.
Also a dab of loctite on each one

 

Can you see a noticable stiffening by bolting them together or...?

 

Now that is an idea that would solve a couple of issues in short order. Would need new gantry plate tops desitgned, but it should not take much to do that, as the lowers are already broader than the top.

 

I would say yes but can't say much just yet.
The fiber OX is not bolted and seems very stiff.
I am however only using a laser on it also

 

I was thinking about doing something like that (even for 1000mm), but one problem is the different router sizes...

 

I would think a standard router mount or two could be fabricated with sleeves to alter to the required size. I ordered the proper sized router mount from Chris Laidlaw, and made an insert to fit it to hold my laser unit.

 

This is my first post, and I'm in the middle of the build. My ACME nut seems to be very tight on the threaded rod.
Its too tight to turn by hand so I used my electric drill to feed it on, the back and forth until the batteries ran flat.
I added some petroleum jelly to lube it up, but it is still really tight. Is this normal?

 

Hi David,

I think that is pretty normal - it will loosen up as it beds in.

Tweakie.

 

I'm at about the halfway point of my build too and likewise, am finding the Z-axis AMCE thread pretty stiff. I think it will be alright though and the tight thread will have the benefit of not having much backlash when running and the tightness will help to hold the vibrating router stable in the Z-axis. I am also, however, curious if this is normal.

I would be worried about using a "wet" lubricant like petroleum jelly on a part which is going to be near flying sawdust and other debris like the Z-axis thread is. The dust is likely to be attracted to the grease and might lead to more stiffness as the dust builds up. As Mark recommends in his build videos, a wipe-down with some silicone lube on a rag or maybe a coating of drying graphite or moly lube spray might be a better solution. If you go with the graphite or moly spray watch out for the overspray as it makes a mess and is a pain to clean off (good for the part, not so good for things coated in overspray).

Let us know how you make out.

Doug M

 

Hey Rich. Here is a link to my drop box that I setup when I was getting support from the TinyG community about my setup. You can follow that thread along at: https://www.synthetos.com/topics/a-little-confused-and-annoyed/

But as for the settings, config file, and a quick little sample .CNC code that works great for quick tests, go here to my drop box.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ll69wwon389gxbp/AAAVQ5lxE9SHIQcHdA2hpnepa?dl=0

Hope these help you out. I'm just working my way through creating something in Sketchup, and trying to get cuts and g-code plotted properly with SketchUcam. There is something that is just eluding me for some proper CAM --> Milling.

Don't use the files that are named: BORKED at the beginning. They were just examples of, well Borked exports.

 

a Dust shoe is a must, I think. Man, the amount of dust you produce with a cnc router is enormous. I also think it would be a good idea to have some kind of protection on the inside of the gantry plates to avoid dust and other cutting debris coming into the top of the profiles, possibly causing trouble in the longer run for the wheels and belts.

 

I wonder if moving the belt from the top to the bottom of the V-Slot would help with dirt getting in. Did anyone try that yet?

 

If the X axis was tripled as in 3 - 80x20 and the rollers were used on the 2 outside tracks would that reduce the twisting allowing you to go to 1500mm. Obviously the plates would have to be modified slightly to accommodate the third beam but I cant see that being a big deal. Any thoughts?

 

This is the dust shoe I have installed on The Buffalo. Next to it the design in SU.

For dust extraction I use this temporarily setup with a blue barrel 200 Ltr., a Thien baffle and industrial vacuum cleaner head.

Works great!

Also have a tool sensor installed for semi-automatic tool change and measuring tool offset, plus a sensor for measuring the Z offset. Makes it all easier to setup work.

 

A short video about how to install the dust shoe (the other way around is taking it off).

 

Got it Rhinofart. Thank you so much

Rich

 

This is exactly my thoughts/experience. Also ask yourself if you want/need the router to be that large, do you have specific projects in mind that need a large bed? I made a 1000mmx1500mm w/o anything in mind, and I think I use about 25% of the bed in most cases. The other 75% is storage for materials and wrenches.
Another thought, I think something that people will often overlook is the support under the table itself. I used two 20x40 v slot supporting 2 sheets of 3/4" mdf/particle board. when looking at the 2080 from the side you can see how the mdf noticeably sags below the 2080.

I really like how one user bolted the 2080 straight to his beefy table w/ aluminum angle. Great idea

 

To prevent sagging, I've printed some corner pieces to support the MDF where it meets the 20x80 profiles at the sides.