What about this lead screw? http://www.helixlinear.com/Product/...ric-Lead-Screw-12-mm-x-25-mm--Stainless-Steel
Repeatability, maintenance (belt tension), precision, durability. Simplicity? a core x/y system is a complex set up, and it takes a lot more mechanical parts. But every system has its advantage and disadvantage ... And every makers as is personal vision. Unfortunately not at the moment ... I have a lot of requests (and ideas) and no time. I relied a bit on the community to test it Cool, Looking forward to it If I have some time, I would draw a smaller version with Openbuilds screws, for those who would like to test. Thank you for your interest Peace.
Hi, so you would like to adapt this screw http://openbuildspartstore.com/8mm-metric-lead-screw-acme/ to fit the x & y axis? Kind regards, Florian
@Anyone thats built this: Are the low profile screws required? Or can I just get normal M5 bolts? Reason is the low profile screws are crazy expensive... If not, thats fine Thanks again!
For @skarab and those interested. The action in 3D printing is in the x and y; the z axis can be slower without much impact on build time. The machine mod work for the Moore screw and nut is acceptable to me for reduce build times in 3D printing using E3D V6 1.75mm. I am studying this design now and trying to grasp all the details. I see dual steppers for the z axis which I assume are driven in parallel??? I also like the potential in the Smoothie Board, has huge potential. My interest is in bringing 4th and 5th axis to the 3D design workflow process, i.e. 3D spray painting and secondary subtractive 5 axis cnc for precision fitment of assembled parts. CNC paint spray is a complex motion control problem. Believe my strategy will be 8mm lead and screw for the z-axis and Moore 12/25 lead and screw for the x and y if you have any thoughts or comments. This platform in theory can be made much more multi purpose with quick change heads, I have a modified Delta design producing elastomer, epoxy and other mixed print materials in 3D as well as brass metal inserts to extend the versatility in final parts produced. Need larger build bed and volume; of course. I am confused over which parts are modified to support the Moore lead and nut assembly if you have a summary collection of affected parts somewhere. Hopefully we can extend this platform into something with greater capability.
The BOM has a comment about looking for a 300x300 bed heater for a larger print surface, Here is one I found. http://store.quintessentialuniversalbuildingdevice.com/product.php?id_product=29 I got my OB parts and just picked up my printed parts, so my "Panther Printer" can begin soon. Not gonna lie, I'm pretty excited!
Shipping is sort of expensive... But if you buy a bunch of stuff it is worth it. I bought my motors, heat bed, acme screws and a few other things. Came out to be $48USD to Canada. (plus $15 duty... -.-)
OK, I have my Z axis screws ordered. Have we found a decent supplier and price for the 12/25 fast screws and nuts in the US? The "Speedys" from EU will cost me over $300 with shipping. Where are the USA builders buyi9ng?
One of those things we probably need to put a buyer's group together to save some on combined shipping. The Speedy's are not multi-start which I don't believe we would have particular need. As I recall, multi-start was about load capability, but that comes from years ago memory. The EU to Dollar being down, should give us some advantage on pricing. I downloaded the design guide, let me confirm we are in safe operating territory. Take me a few days with my schedule, but I will get back. For the accuracy, I think $300 is not bad, but $150 would be better.
Okay, so I got my order from Robotdiggs for the acme screws. Of course all the nuts on them are totally different from the current ones. The holes and diameters are totally different. I am a Sketchup newbie, but I was able to create the 'connector' to match the attached diagrams. Can any one suggest what I can read to merge/replace the connectors on the: - Y Carriage - X End Bearing Side In - X End Motor Side In - X Carriage Nut Side Any tips/suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks! Gump
Wanted to let everyone on this thread to be aware that I am working on a solution for the x,y lead screw. I expect to know more details by next week. This would be to utilize the 8mm from OpenBuild Parts for the Z-axis and a 10-25 for the x and y without breaking the bank. Standby........ I'm hoping to find a lower cost solution.
I hope we can find something, as I am considering selling my printed parts and building a cube or Maximus or something not needing $400 for 2 screws. I have my Z axis screws, but they can be used in many things.
I'm pretty sure that it will work with the OB lead screws, my Prusa i3 works very well with GT2 belts and 5mm screws and nuts for the Z axis... It's only a 3D printer afterall!
Yeah, I have my Z axis screws and nuts, but the thread seems to indicate the 12/25 high pitch screws are needed for any kind of wpeed in printing for the X and Y, so...
Has anyone gat a quote from these guys posted up the page? All I would need is the raw screws and the nuts. I can machine my own ends. Oh yeah, anyidea how long the overall length of the X screw and Y screw are supposed to be? I have steppers from OB store
Make your own bud! Get some hardened rod from an old inkjet "$10 at thrift shops" and fire up that puppy
I can't right now. My lathe is not able to turn screws right now. Gearbox issues. Don't see it fixed very soon. Its an old unit. It can however still turn down the ends manually for now. So, if I had the screws and the threaded shaft, I could turn the ends for the bearings and the couplers.
For anyone thinking about going to RobotDigg for the acme screws Tr8x8 and Tr8x20. I have modified the sketchup files to match the nuts that are on the screws. Hopefully I have done it right, will test it soon. Anyone have an idea how fast Tr8x20 can go? Thanks!
Hey Guys, I have started a dialog with Chris Nook of Helix/Nook. They have high speed screws and nuts. I am hoping he will be able to provide the 12/25 multi-start lead screws and nuts for our Lautr3k's. If/when I hear back, I will let everyone know.
I hace been in contact with a rep from Helix Nook. She is going to send me some sample pricing on raw 12mm, 5 start, 25mm travel screw shaft and anti-backlash flanged nuts. She also tells me that they are releasing new rails and slides, R&P stuff. They can offer the screws in many other sizes and have machined ends available in different styles. They are out of Ohio, and idf we can come up with some standard part kit groups, they might be able to work with us in that way, also. I asked for raw screws (not machined on the ends to be quoted with the others, as I suspect that some/many of us can do simple end turning.
If I can, I will. I'm looking forward to the new products they will be introducing, and hoping this works out.
Will raw screws in 500mm lenth be long enough? I haven't see anything that states that. I guess that since everyone might be using different length steppers... the screws might have to be cut and machined to different sizes. So in that case if we start with 500mm screw stock, should that take everythin into consideration if cut from there and made to final size?
I have some of the info back from Nook, and so far it looks pretty good. Need a couple more bits of info and details on nut styles, and I will post the info.
Looking forward to see how it works out on cost and performance. I'm in for speed on x and y axis to make BIG parts with some decent precision.
Is there any interest in complete shafts for the X and Y (from bearings on one end to include the flex collar on the other end? I am thinking cut and machined to mate with the OB store NEMA 17 stepper). The only way to make this very workable would be to buy in bulk. I am inclined to do this to help if there is I support OpenBuilds and think offering sets to match their parts might be doable. I am going to try to arrange for some shafts to test. The original shafts from Trinity were $100 US each, and I am going to see how close I can get the price down to make the shaft kit (shaft, flanged nut, bearings, spacers, flex collar) come in as close to that as possible. I would like to do my part to make this printer possible to build again. It might run a little over that, as I don't know how much shipping will be o get the stuff here. My intentions would be to offer shafts in machined and raw o keep quantity buying possible into here. I will know soon if the test works out.