WOWZA! Wish I would have ordered your plates instead of getting mine cut at a local water jet company!
Now that I have assembled my ox I can really appreciate the small upgrades you have made to the plates, good work!

 

Nice job SlyClockWerkz! I like the drag knife. Have you had a chance to test it out?

 

Hey Sly!

Nice job! I was getting ready to order some garolite (or similar phenolic material) and have some parts cut soon, then I saw that you are selling your set. I want to order your parts (probably this week), but wanted to know if when I order them, could you provide me with the source for your material? I want to cut some other custom parts and will want to use the same material that you used so that if I leave them the natural color (maybe clear coat it), my parts will match yours. Although I'm not sure the natural color will look nice clear coated so I may also decide to paint them.

Anyway, thanks and I look forward to placing my order.

 

Oh, one more thing? What kind of Garolite is it, G10? Thanks again.

 

@SlyClockWerkz Sent you an email through your website on the 4th asking about lead time for a set of plates and a picture of the scratch and dent set... I have gotten no response...

 

Ok I just ordered a set through your site.

 

Hello,

Got my plates a while back. They look very nice! I've just started painting them (orange) and am now test fitting / making sure I have all the right hardware.

I have a question, not sure if it's a problem or not. The Z axis mounting plate (bottom left plate in your picture), has 2 sets of holes for the spacer blocks to mount to. One side has 5 small holes, which seems correct. The other side has a combination of larger and smaller holes (3 large and 2 small). The large holes are the holes to be used for the bolts that mount the wheels. When you mount the wheels using these larger holes, there is a lot of variation as to where the wheels can be tightened into position. This doesn't seem right. The original OX has all small holes on both sides (from watching the construction video anyway). I have also seen some variations that have both (a row of small and larger holes on each side). So I was wondering, are the holes wrong (should both sides be the small holes?), or am I missing the point of the larger holes?

Also the holes used to bolt the spacer blocks into place (2 on each side) are slightly out of line (too close together I think). I can easily fix this, but thought I'd point it out in case this part needs to be adjusted in the future.

Thanks,
-Patrick

 

OK, so I'm pretty sure that the larger holes I mentioned in my previous post are for the bolts that mount the wheels and use the eccentric spacers. That gives the bolts the freedom to move as you adjust the eccentric spacers. Is this correct? If so, then you'd probably just want to loosen those bolts slightly to adjust the wheels with the eccentrics, then tighten the bolts fully after the wheels are in the proper position. Might be good to use some washers on the bolt heads too since they are in larger holes.

I'll post some pictures of the painted parts after I'm done. I think if you want to paint your parts, the paint should adhere to these Garolite parts better than aluminum. I have painted a few of the little aluminum plates that mount the ends of the table together, and have already gotten some small chips right down to the aluminum. I did properly prep the aluminum and used metal primer... still seems to chip fairly easily. The paint on the Garolite parts seems much more durable / chip resistant.

 

Thanks! I posted my last response before I saw yours. So yeah, those holes are for the eccentrics.

I can deal with the block mounting holes being slightly off. It's very slight and I can open them up just a hair.

I'll try to post some pics over the weekend.

Thanks again!