I just finished my build and with the 3/4 mdf spoiler board the Z axes doesn't have much up and down movement .
It should have about 1.75" according to the product description. It looks like the smaller models do not use the 2080 in the bottom framing and use 2040 instead which gives them more height in the z. I could be wrong though. I am just going off the pictures.
The problem is that the bit length is eating into the 1.75". There are a couple of possible solutions here. The most beneficial would be to reverse the Z-axis. This will give you the full 1.75" to work with (2.125" if you mount the bottom axis plate flush with the bottom of the X-gantry plate). You will need to drill a few holes in the plates to make it work though. The other option would be dropping the bed. This is probably the easiest method and will give you about 1.7" workable assuming the bit extends half way into the working area. Note you will need to provide proper support under the bed to keep it from sagging. A combination of the two methods will give you even more depth, upwards of 3.74" but don't expect all of it to be usable simply because of extension limitations of the fixed rail/movable spindle method used in the reversed Z approach shown above.
Thanks for the suggestions, I was planning to add a dust shoe and with the low height of the gantry I didn't know how I was going to make it work
I have set mine to the lowest height and build my spoil board up.. going to use t track and mdf glued down to add another 3/4 on top of the original board
QUESTION What is the actual travel of the Z assembly itself? I noticed this difference (higher bed/deck -> thus less Z travel) in the 1510 and was thinking of making new END PLATES on the left and right of the gantry to lift the GANTRY up further (thinking about 40 to 50 mm). Looks like the thicker rails were used to keep that machine sturdy. Is there an end plate that openbuilds or anyone else has seen?
Hi guys, I'm about to buy an 1510 but I'm also concerned about the z height... Does anybody know why Openbuilds do not offer higher gantry plates?
The plates are designed to provide a balance between stiffness and usability. The higher the plates the less stiff the system and the lower the cut quality. A height had to be selected knowing not everyone would be happy but would give the best quality of cut for most users. And stocking multiple depths of plates is cost prohibitive for a small business. If you need taller plates I suggest plates from Chrisclub1 on eBay. As an alternate, you might consider this suggestion High Z Mod for Lead CNC if you’re seeking a considerable amount of height.
Thanks Rick, I understand. The height I may precise is from 3 to 4 inches, nothing more. Guess I'll end up working out something. Congrats for your work guys.
pauna, do yourself a favor and put two of these brackets on the router. Separate them as far apart as possible.
The first thing I noticed was this one brackets problem. From the beginning, do not order, make a big mistake. I will definitely add. The holes are made in advance. I also think I will add four small v wheels
