1. GRBL Error 1 2. Poor / bad milling results. I use Black Box, Interface, Fusion 360, and Makita rt0701c Router. I added some pics of the work piece and the g code. I keep getting that error 1 and it happens with my Dust collection On and it happens when its Off. All cords have been checked with a Multimeter and have continuity. All cords and or wires have Ferrite Cores on them. The spoilboard is MDF .75" thick and I have flattened it once. I have checked it a couple of times with a dial indicator and there are some high and low spots. It ranges from .005 - .012 The Table that this machine sits on is very wobbly. As the machine is milling it is wobbling back and forth the Y axis the most. The top also moves a little up and down the Z axis. My CNC machine has 4 rubber feet on it that I got from here. My dust collection system is grounded. But like I said the error 1 still happens. Some questions I have. Do you have to Ground the frame of a CNC Machine? What's with all the grbl error 1s? I've done what was recommended to me on this messageboard. Ferrite Cords. I'm out of answers. Should I take off the rubber feet on the CNC machine? Has anyone else complained about them? Do you think my table is a huge problem? I mean how good of a table do you really need? I added some pics of the work piece and the g code.
If you cannot solve the EMI issue electrically, you can Disable Hard Limits (using Soft Limits and Homing instead)
Having 5 switches, no. Not by themselves. But some nearby EMI source (it's best to address the source, where it comes from, than trying to protect everything around the source) is radiating EMI into your limits wiring. Keep in mind that can happen anywhere. Inside a connector even. Or some other unrelated cable carrying the EMI into the BlackBox. Thats why its mostly not helping to work with trying to make them more immune, until you find and address where the EMI is coming from in the first place. Doctor the disease, not the symptoms
that is EMI and just adding ferrites is not enough. you also need - star grounding - space between power cables and signal cables. You cannot safely put limit switch wires in the cable chain with the stepper motor cables unless the limit wires are properly shielded and star grounded, and you may need shielded power cables too. The router power cable in particular must be far away from limit switch wiring. - filtering. do you have OB limit switches? Xtension Limit Switch Kit They have built in filtering. If you don't have those then see the GRBL wiki for how to use optocouplers for filtering. what you are showing is backlash (and a bit of ordinary wood chipping during cutting(*)). one or more axes are able to flex in response to tool pressure. If you look at which direction your tool is moving and which way it is turning you can figure out which way the tool is trying to push the away form the work. That will tell you what is bending and in which direction. Apart from fixing the mechanical issues you can also use finishing passes in Fusion. Do roughing passes, deeper and faster (within limits of machine of course), but always leave 'axial stock to leave' of about 0.020", then do a full depth finishing pass that removes that last bit of stock. Make sure your carbide tools are sharp. If you are not scared of it, it is not sharp enough (-: Avoid slotting as much as possible, use 2D Adaptive for the roughing, then 2D Contour for the finish. If you are unsure how to do this in Fusion, then search youtube for 'stop slotting the stupid way' in the NYCCNC channel. In fact, if you have not yet done so, watch all of NYCCNC's Fusion Friday videos. FIX THAT! Add 1x1" strips from half way up the legs to half way along the table edge, to create triangles, which are very stiff. For best effect, glue and screw them in place, but if you absolutely have to have them removable then 2 screws each end will do, you will have to tighten them in spring and autumn. You need to make sure the machine sits on the table without rocking, and the machine is flat. Put spacers under whichever foot is not firmly on the table. At the same time you can make sure that the machine is flat in all directions and does not follow the tables curves. After the machine is flat in all directions you can surface the spoilboard.
The only things running are the CNC machine, the router, 3 LED ceiling lights and a small fan about 4 feet away from the table. I uses the Xtension Limit Switch Kit. So in your experience what would be the main source of EMI in this set up?
In that setup, the router. Is it earthed? Does it have a 2 or 3 core power cable (might have a 3 prong plug but "double insulated" and no earth in the cable. How is your cable routed? We recommend a swing arm setup: Swing Arm Yeah known not to have an earth
It's got 2 and is listed as Double insulated. Makita USA - Product Details -RT0701C I have a DIY Swing Arm.
those LED lights can also be noisy. my LED kitchen lights interfere with my TV in the next room, have to adjust the bunny ears for best picture when the lights are on, and it varies from station to station too. .
So you are saying I have a backlash problem with this machine. Like I said I have the Lead 1010 It has the all the nut blocks and an anti backlash nut. So how do you fix a problem like this with a Lead 1010? Do I need to tighten or loosen the nut block screws? The anti back lash nut?
You just take up the slack in the nut blocks to remove the backlash but not too tight (obviously) to bind the leadscrew.
Hey pretty sure I found the problem with the Backlash. It's was mainly on the Z axis. I hadn't installed the set screw (grub screw?) in the anti backlash block. And there was a lot of slop in the lead screw. So that's now done properly.
This ? " You can replace the makita cable very easily take the top cover off and there are screw terminals, replace the cable with shielded 2 conductor of 18 awg, use the drain lead to ground the case of the makita to an earth ground."
I did some research on EMI. This video was pretty good. How do EMI Filter Chokes Work? The shielded cord blocks the EMI and it's sent through the ground/ earth wire? Also heard it called drain wire instead of earth or ground. So am I understanding this correctly?
The Makita does not have a choke on the cord as sold, that is a security device.. Earthing and shielding is a good idea. Gary
Ok I was wondering what that thing was. So did you make a cord for that router? What did you use and was it easy? Does the Makita have a ground hook up terminal inside the body? In order to open the Makita body you have to cut the label with the serial # voiding the warranty And I'm not going to do anything like that until I know it works and is hassle free.
Dont replace the cord. Dont void your warranty. Earth wire, literally clamped between the router body and the router mount will still give you a good enough connection. See the post I originally shared. Which was: The one you focussed on was the one below my suggestion Also mentioned later on again
