Been playing with a part I want to cut both side of the board. Using Fusion 360. just trying to figure out the best way to register the the board on the CNC after flipping so everything lines up reasonable for the back side cut. As much in the software end of things as the physical. the wood is VERY old (150+ years old) and rather rough so just lining up an edge is near impossible. I have a couple ideas, but none of them seem too easy or all that smart or truly accurate of a way to go about it so wondering if someone here has any thoughts? probably stupid easy and it's just not clicking in my brain. Thanks.
Use a centre line in your design - put some holes for dowels on the centre line outside the actual design. Create a toolpath just for those holes. Use that toolpath to drill holes in your workpiece and also in the spoilboard (use some scrap - surfaced of course - on top of your spoilboard if you have room). When you create a setup in cam make sure your stock box is big enough for the extra stock outside the design itself. Think about work holding - you need the extra stock to remain attached to the design after you have machined both sides. Can give more specific advice if we know what the design is. Alex.
that's a good idea! was also thinking about just two 90º lines in the corners that get cut thru and use as the reference/start/zero point
That's not such a good idea since it may not be put back EXACTLY in the perfect spot and may result in the parts being a little off. The best way is to do what Alex said with the two pins, or 4 pins if you want. Another option is to put some fences to butt the part against it, on at least two sides so that when you flip the part it butts against the same fences.
that was my 1st thought, but again. and why I came here looking for options as it's old oak floor boards from an attic that were rough cut. ya, I could go and flush/square everything, but even still the corner or center point may move in relation to the parts off the stock unless it's all down right perfect (top left will be top right and such when you flip). And it seems like a waste to square it all up just to cut it off with the actual part is made. thinking the pins Idea is likely the best so far. (PS, yes same person, some how I got 2 accts here and one computer signs in on one and the other the other... oh well)
BTW, you may already know it but let me mention it just the same. When you flip the part DON'T reset the X and Y axes but you may have to reset the Z axis.
Yeah if you accidentally lose your XY position, you'll have to probe from a known fixed location like one of the dowels. Good reason to make the dowels steel rather than wood, actually.
Yay, i was actually thinking about that, figured with the pins id actually make a third small hole/mark dead center and zero from that.
You need a reference for both sides. I normally use the pins method and have one of the pins as the origin for both sides. If you have a vice...
