For the past week I have been running sample blocks trying to dial in the best setting to cut HDPE. because of some narrow cuts I have to make, I can't use a bit larger than 1/8" (Might be able to do 4mm, but haven't looked into that yet). Anyways, to make a long story shorter, I have found a bit that cuts HDPE beautifully, however it deflects very bad at the bottom 5% of the material. Here is an exaggerated drawing of what I am dealing with. Test piece is a 2" diameter, 1" thickness with a 5/16 hole in the center The bit is a single flute twist up cut. Speed 13750 rpm Feed 1397 mm/min DoC 1.5875 Inside hole is cut conventional, out side is cut climb (2" diam) The finish is very smooth and chatter free, but no mater what I try I can not get rid of the deflection. I can slow it down, speed it up, change the DOC and no difference. The best progress I have made is lowering the plunge rate to about 200 mm/min. Helps a bit but doesn't eliminate it. Also, oddly doing a finish pass, or repeat pass has absolutely no affect on it. I suspect the way this bit is designed is part of the problem. I think the twist in the bit causes it to "pull". I haven't been able to find a single flute straight bit in 1/8" yet so haven't tried that. I have also tried a 2 flute straight bit but the edge isn't as clean and the deflection is still there, but not as bad. I have tried a 2 flute upcut twist bit and that gives me a straight edge, but its rough as well and the double twist leaves a very slight hill-vally surface. I'm out of ideas to try. Maybe cut 1 or 2mm past the bottom??? Could the deflection be coming from the gantry and not the bit? I have tightened and re-tightened everything on the gantry, In fact I am afraid that everything is too tight. Is router placement important, as far as how high it is on the gantry? Thanks for reading.
Found a very informative page, might help others Who is Afraid of Tool Deflection? [2020: 4 Evils + The Cures]
How long is your bit? If you are cutting 1" deep, the bit must/should not be longer than 17/16", to avoid this deflection. Any more stickout and you are asking for problems. Also, when cutting HDPE and other plastics, dedicate the bit to the type of plastic, and never ever cut anything else with a bit designated for plastic. (I do this with hacksaw blades too, makes a huge difference) They just have to be razor sharp for plastics, and wood makes them blunt and metal makes them chip (and then blunt), both of which will lead to deflection and heat in plastics.
Thanks for the info - I plan to do just that. I have new bits coming. As for the bit length, yes it's only about 1/16 extra. After reading the info in that link I posted, I'm thinking the reason I get such bad deflection with the best cutting bit is 2 fold, that bit is HSS, and single flute, making it flex even more.
For anyone who is interested, I figured it out. - I was ignoring the Chip Load. My chip load was way to light. I was messing around with a 3 flute bit today and the deflection was a lot less, but still couldn't get rid of it. Since slowing it down didn't seem to help (and I actually noticed vibration was worse going slower) I said screw it and set the speed to 4000 mm/min. The vibration disappeared and so did the deflection. (but 3 flutes leaves a fairly rough edge) I changed back to the single flute bit, recalculated the F&S for max chip load (I was running the lightest thinking it wouldn't deflect as much), set the depth to 1.75mm and like magic - no vibration and a fairly clean edge (could be cleaner) and most importantly - straight and square with the surface. The only vibration I get is on it's final pass because it's only cutting a fraction of the step down so I will recalculate my step down distance to equal out over the full 25.4 thickness. Thanks to everyone listening to me think out loud!
the only way to get decent answers is to talk to yourself (-: must say I did not chipload a thought... must be getting old