Wondering if I could trouble someone for their S3D settings or file thingy for a Volcano with a 0.8mm nozzle and direct drive. I'm having a hard time and think that I just need a good starting point. (and I'm overtired ... lol) Frustration is setting and and S3D is expensive .... I want to like it more. Gaps then blobs on infill edges. Some settings (not sure which ones) make it retract so far that it pops when it extrudes again.

 

Thanks! I think I understand it. So if I read that correctly, the top of the motor (not including the shaft) is 9mm below the vertical center of the hole, which is at the same height as the center of either the top or bottom tapped extrusion end.. That would mean that the ceiling of the motor would be 20/2+9 = 1 mm above the bottom of the extrusion, correct?

 

Ah, okay, I see now. Thanks! That could have been a very long wasted print.

 

I'll get you what I have for my 0.6mm nozzle when I get home today. I just took most of @AK Eric's settings from Building the C-Bot 3D printer: Part 24 : Tuning print settings for the Volcano and adjusted the layer height/width to match my 0.6mm. Also, these were from a bowden setup, so you'll need to reduce the retraction settings (it sounds like you might have them set for a bowden setup?).

I'm getting two Titans tomorrow to try a dual head volcano/v6 direct drive setup, so all my retraction settings will need to be fixed again. And I'll have a little lot work to do on getting it all mounted and dialed in. @Elmo Clarity, could you send me the STL for the Titan Dual carriage you have? Everything I need to try out a dual setup should be in tomorrow and I'll be grateful to get that carriage design out of the way.

I guess I could do an intro last....long time listener, first time caller. This is my first 3-D printer, I decided to go the long route and build my own. Recently "completed" (relative term) my C-Bot build on the large size, 12 x 12 x 25(ish), front and rear lead screw. I added a front carriage to the z-axis like the rear 2 legs have, but I think it's causing binding down low, because the steppers are struggling to get back up once they are below about 22-23". That'll probably require a re-work on my part or maybe more powerful steppers for z if I can't locate any binding. Or remove the front z carriages altogether. Maybe I overthought that whole setup. I'll post some pictures of my build up tonight.

Thanks to @Carl Feniak for a really nice design!

 

@akneipp I'll try getting that sent out tonight when I get home from work.

 

@akneipp Thank you. That'd be much appreciated. Looking forward to pics of your dual titan setup.


*** Looking back at my post from last night, I now realize that I was whining. My apologies for that ..... lol

 

Personally - I didn't take it as whining, I took it as a request for help. Which as you can see, the fine folks here are glad to provide in spades.

FWIW - I have a .6 in my volcano now as well, I normally run a .4 but the wood filament was clogging in it. I run a bowden setup and why I didn't reply earlier. Sounds like you are in good hands, but if you would like I can provide my FFF file as well.

 

That would be great as well. It's just frustrating as I was coming off Cura with my delta, and forked out $200 CDN (gotta love the exchange!) for something that I was getting worse results with. I'm pretty sure that it's just the combination of new hotend with double the nozzle size, new printer and new slicing software that just let my frustration get the better of me. I had to walk away from it for the night. I like a lot of the features of S3D and they seem like great ideas, but it's a bit confusing at times. I've yet to try it on my delta with a 0.4mm E3D Lite6.

And yes Chris, you're absolutely correct about the helpfulness of the members of this forum. Fine ladies and gents all.

 

@akneipp - I run the same setup as you and almost the same exact build area. 305 x 305 x 635 I ran into the same issues with binding and end up doing the following steps to get everything in alignment. Once you followed @Carl Feniak's advice, you might want to try this.

Ensure your frame is square. This only works if the frame is exactly square and all the respective top / bottom, front / back and left / right measurements of the frame match.
One more thing, I run the lead screw nut mounts upside down so the lift force is pulling more than pushing. At least that's the theory anyway.

1. Measure exact center of front lower frame cross member. Put the stepper mount center on frame center. Attach lead screw coupler to stepper.
2. Repeat for the rear stepper.
3. Attach the z platform arms to the rear z cross member, also attach the z platform front cross member, with the lead screw nut mount and nut attached already.
4. Attach build plate to the z arms to keep them square.
5. Position z buildplate center in the center of the rear z cross member.
6. Position front lead screw nut mount approximately where it needs to be. I Did this by barely loosing and then moving the front z cross member and lead screw nut mount.
7. Lower the lead screw in through the top of the nut and slowly let it wind it's way towards the stepper.
8. Once the lead screw is near the coupler, let gravity straighten it out. Hard to do holding it, but can be done.
9. Move z front cross member and nut mount so the hanging lead screw lines up with coupler center.
10. Tighten up z cross member and nut mount.
11. Adjust coupler, ensure the lead screw is fully seated and touching stepper shaft, slide coupler up to the point where it would push the lead screw back up. Tighten the coupler.
12. With the z platform all the way up, measure lead screw distance from the lower front frame cross member and also from the top front cross member to the lead screw. They should match, adjust lead screw nut mount and front z cross member as needed. Only adjust one at a time to make life easier.
13. Repeat the measuring and adjusting with the z platform at the bottom.
14. You will also need to measure the lead screw from the left and / or right in a similar manner.
15. Once everything lines up and measurements match, double check tightness of all the bolts and try it out.

 

I had similar issues switching to S3D, but it took a lot less time to adjust it then when I switched from slic3r to Cura.

 

@wackocrash5150
Check out this more recent post I did on the Volcano (1mm nozzle) print settings in S3D:
C-Bot: Taming the Volcano's print settings
It's where I finally got my volcano settings dialed in to where I could get some good quality out of it. This was done when I still have my bowden setup: Since I've switched to direct drive the quality has got even better. Mainly I can just retract a lot less.

 

Does anyone know what the slotted 3 and 4 pin connectors commonly found on controller boards are called, and what kind of crimper to use with them? I'm using the pins listed in the BOM, but they've jiggled loose a couple times and it's making me nervous.

 

Got my connectors and housing from Digi-Key.

Female Connectors: WM2623-ND
2-Pin Housing: WM2613-ND
4-Pin Housing: WM2614-ND

Got the crimper off Amazon, it's OK and I can reliably crimp what I need. But I think there are better ones out there.
Crimper: Weierli Tools SN-28B

 

Yep. I tried out google cardboard and it was slick, so upgrading the goggles a bit.

In hindsight, I should have dropped the infill down to %5... These might be a bit heavy.

 

Thanks!!

 

I GOOFED! I have the 2 and 4 pin, not the 3 and 4.... I hope you didn't order yet.

Here's the 3-Pin housing number: WM2626-ND

Also make sure you order a lot of the connectors, I ordered a batch of 100.

 

I tried them out too. They made me sick. But that wasn't too surprising. I get vertigo on the ride simulators too.

 

Here are the STL files. There is one for the back, and 3 different front ones. One with no Z-Probe holder. One with a mount for a 4mm inductive approach sensor (12mm barrel). And one for an 8mm approach (18mm barrel).

 

Here's the other bits. Pics of my setup and my FFF for @wackocrash5150.

Oh wow, thanks! I've got some more dialing in to do. I don't recall if I went back and measured my z steppers locations.

 

Thanks for that as well. I've got a BLTouch in route, so I'll find a way to mount that up. It looks like that's a 13mm barrel?

 

Not sure what the diameter of the BLTouch is. If you are comfortable working with OpenSCAD, I can send you the source file and tell you where to put the size in. Or you can let me know and I'll do one up for you. I'm going to be out of town until Saturday evening so you'll probably have to wait until then if you want me to do it. There are mounting points on the No ZProbe version where you can design your own mount and attach it.

 

@TechGirl has a BLTouch mount that works with the carriages the generator builds if you are interested in that.

Carriage Generator: Hot End Mount Generator - Customizable for various carriages, hot ends and options. by croadfeldt
BLTouch Mount: BLTouch Mount for C-Bot by TechGirl_Mods

 

Doesn't look like it is just a screw on type mount like the inductive sensors. Since I don't have one, I'll defer to what is already there. It looks like TechGirls would probably work with the No ZProbe one. Or it would take very little modification.

Someone want to send me a BLTouch Probe so I can play around with it?

 

@Chris Roadfeldt & @Carl Feniak great suggestions, thanks a ton. About 3 hours of work and now the Z travel is non-binding.

I send everyone one if I could, but there's that whole money issue. I'll take a look at the SCAD file, if you want to send it my way.