Cube 3 / Pro hacks

have yuo can print a simplify3d file into the cube3
??

 

I feel you bro

 

My mistake!!!
Sorry I do not read this
"....When the cube print program encodes it’s files it also adds a small thumbnail of the print in the file. None of the third party encoders have a way of putting a thumbnail in the file and as such they cannot be read in cube print, they show up as an invalid file so can’t be started using wifi. That’s why we have to use the thumb drive to print using this method.---"
I was trying to open encoded file from cube print

 

Those bins are in there very tight. If yours is no longer tight, it may have broken the catch.
Otherwise, it may be that you are not providing enough pressure to re-install it.
I often give it a little help by pulling up the catch at the top.

 

I think what happened is that while the print head was purging some filament it pooled and collected on the wiper assembly causing the printhead to push the hardened pool of plastic pushing the purge bin with it nothing got damaged though

 

Very unusual. Glad all is good.

 

So what's next for enhancing the Cube 3 guys?

 

The firmware isn't encrypted, that's how!

 

I connected my working cube to a Win10 laptop, and it came up as a completely different USB device. VID/PID are for 3D Systems. Device class is CDC (serial). I was able to connect to it with 3D Builder, where I had quite a few more slicing options than the stock Cube software (including rafts and 5 different infill types). I sliced one of the stock models and transferred it to the cube. (I didn't print it. I didn't expect to get that far!) Note: this cube is stock. I've never opened it up, or messed with the firmware at all.

I took screenshots of all the pages from device manager, and dumped the USB device descriptor data if anyone wants to see any of it. The most interesting thing I found was that the serial number of the USB device is the MAC address of the wifi module.

I tried my bare cube controller board again, and it still shows up as the Viper BT device when connected to USB. I flashed the latest stock firmware back on it, and there was no change. I was doing some other stuff that required changing the sd card files when I noticed one of the files had changed from the backup I made when I first opened it up.

I'll post more after I do some additional tests, but I think the PIC24F must be changing the USB descriptors depending on if the SD card files pass some kind of verification. Good thing I broke out the SPI pins! Time to commence the packet sniffin'!

 

Enjoy

 

Hm.When I connect mine to PC it is recognized as Cube 3 but 3D builder thinks that there is no driver available to control it...

 

Razor3000 of the firmware isn't encrypted then why is it shown in hieroglyphics when I try to open it up in notepad all I see are random letters that have no meaning

 

Tom, Have you found a way to stop/Get Around this error? No matter what I print about 10 minutes in the print will stop with that error? It is making it impossible to use the printer. I'm using Hatchbox ABS Green on a Black ABS cube cartridge on the left side. I haven't tried to do anything to the nozzle. I Patched with 1.0. Any thoughts?


EDIT

I have been playing around with inserting and reinserting the nozzle and the print appears to have passed the usual point of failure. Will update if it fails again

 

The patch is of no concern, of course. There is a sensor in the print-head that is seriously sensitive to any sudden change in feedback. I suspect it is the temp sensor, but I do not understand how this is managed. However, I do know that excess restriction to the filament line, or any disturbance while printing will set this off. But I also had a printer do this to me when I forced air over the part using ABS. PLA was working fine, the room was warmish, and no matter what, ABS would fail after about 10 minutes where PLA worked fine. In that sense, it must be hyper sensitive in warmer environments. Never had this occur when the ambient was at laboratory temperatures.

Check to see if you have any filament in the heater part of the print-head where the nozzle goes. You might need a flashlight.

 

Hey tom any updates on a firmware update

 

Which tom??? <<<=== not the FW guy.

 

ok mine is conencted to win10 usign driver downloaded from microsoft but 3dbuilder sucks!!!!

 

Hey guys Thank You very much for this great update my only problem is I have 6 cartridges that all read 0% and one wash away that is at 100%. Is there away that I can get them to read something like 75% so I can start printing please

 

For the 100%, you need to go back to stock driver and then re-patch when your initialized your new cartridge.

Zero percent... maybe someday

 

OK thank you I just didn't want buy anymore of the filament

 

Any updates guys

 

What happened to eychei geezer and Kiza? Any news guys?

 

Thanks guys for your awesome work. I seen this question asked earlier but no answer was given. I have a pla on the left and abs cart on the right.

Currently I have v1.0 of the hack running. I want to use the abs cartridge to print pla. I know the temp settings are in the print file.

How would I go about using the abs cartridge to print pla?

 

Hey eychei any news on new firmware modification forgive me if I am getting repetitive in my requests.

 

We have a life outside the forum?

There is an option brought up early in this adventure.
People were trying to cheat the system by "switching chips" hardwired to the machine.
This was fraught with trouble, obviously, but now, this is a real option.

The idea is that you remove the need for cartridge chips.
Use a SPDT (or DPDT) switch for each side of the printer.
Wire an ABS and PLA chip to each switch such that the center position is open, and the ABS is on one pole and the PLA on the other.
Now hardwire that into the wires of the side connectors (cartridge interface).
Mount the switches in the case.
Mark the switches.

Now you can set your printer up any way you want regardless of what is installed in the cartridge slots.
It also lets you go back to your zero % chips and the 100% chip problem is also mitigated.

Now that I said it, it is looking more and more like a great idea.

 

So to make it clear, the 1.0 expects ABS on the LEFT and PLA on the right?

 

1.0 accepts any cartridge anywhere.