Good idea, like the E3D silicone sock. I'm not sure it will fit though, but tape obviously will.
And it's definitely touching the effector, but it doesn't seem to be a problem so I'm not too bothered

@r0n_dL Thanks! I'll look into it. Edit: can you provide a better picture? It's really small and unreadable for me.

 

Yeah I just used silicon plumbers tape from a local hardware store, it doesn't have any sticky stuff on it but bonds to itself. Here's an image.

 

What are you using for plastic, I have been trying for weeks for get ABS to not warp while printing these Vertices. I thing I need ABS as the Stepper motors get war 100 degrees plus, so I suspect pla is out of the question?

Should use PETG?, I have seen a suggestion to use Polymaker PolyMax PLA?

Dave

 

PETG would work well. I've used it for an extruder mount after the PLA started warping from heat. The stuff is a different animal altogether for printing though. I go slow and add a bit more retract.

 

PETG. It's as awesome as Polycarbonate, but it can -flex- like an unbreakable comb. Doesn't smell either. STICKY though, so make sure you wrap your hotend in silicone unless you want a really awful sticky mess.

 

Hi guys,
I'm looking at building one and was just wondering what extruder and hot end setup i should use.
Thanks

 

I like the E3D V6 hot end and Titan Extruder. I am planning on switching over to a nimble extruder when they are available.

 

What power supply would guy's recommend using? I'm using ramps 1.4 as the controller with a heated bed and the E3D V6 hotend

 

I am using an AC powered heated bed so I don't need as much current over all. I am using a 12V 8A power supply on my system (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RDTOSFE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1). If you use a DC powered heater, you would need something larger. Before switching to AC, I used a 12V 350W power supply (Amazon.com: Mean Well NES-350-12 12V 350 Watt Ul Switching Power Supply 110-240 Volt: Computers & Accessories). You could also use a 24V version to reduce the amperage needed for the bed (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DW6NLKU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

 

I am sorry for the lengthy set of questions but there seems to be no real good build doc for this printer.

1. is this forum really this difficult to search as it seems, I am attempting to make a delta six, and I went thru all 24+ pages. I am now so confused if I should be using, are the stock plans ok to use?
2. Using the stock measurements I have base lengths of 300 around the perimeter and the leftover height of a 1 meter length cut to 700 mm - blade width. What length should the carbon rods be?
3. I have seen many "Improvements" in this thread is there any way to easily see or find these.
4. Information seems really sparse on parts and assemble and I am really having a rough time with the wheels (I purchased the Delrin Mini V Wheel™ Kit ) I am not sure if this is right.
5. how are the carbon fiber arms attached to the carriage assemblies? It appears there is a socket with a ball bearing in it? Is it a neodymium magnet holding this in place?

I know you don't know my skill set, I do beleave this is not out of my grasp I just need some he

 

I can answer most questions:
1. The original plans are not complete, there are additions spread across the 27 pages. If you want a "complete" build, I suggest using Jerry's STL files, which you can find some pages back. This all is because the creator of this build disappeared before finishing the complete design.
2. Both Elmo Clarity and me are using 300mm horizontals with 700 vertical. We both use 288mm long magnetic rods, which work fine. We are both using these rods: MagBall Arms + Balls - 288mm .
3. No not really, I mixed and matched whatever I found throughout the pages. I used the original vertices, but most of the other parts are from Jerry's designs, as well as some that I designed myself.
4. I found the actual build really straightforward. It seemed daunting at first but seeing other build pictures I managed to build mine. Although I forgot to add additional T-nuts for mounting other stuff which is extremely annoying. If you need help you can always ask.
5. The original design uses Traxxas rods, for which the hinges need to be fastened to both the carriages and the effector. Quite a few builds use magnetic rods, where the rods have magnetic cups at each end, which rotate over steel balls.

Good luck!

Edit: I see that you're trying to print the vertices in ABS, but PLA should be fine if your steppers are not too hot to touch. How hot do the stepper motors of your current printer get?

 

Hello

Interested in this build. Is there any videos of one printing? Thanks

 

Here's a short video of one of the first prints I made:

Would you like to see the whole printer? I can make a video of it if you want.

 

[/QUOTE]Would you like to see the whole printer? I can make a video of it if you want.[/QUOTE]

Thanks. Yes please. I have a standard 3d printer but I'm interested to how this works. What are the advantages of this design over a standard printer setup or is it just the vertical height you were looking for? ta

 

Nilz,

Thanks for the heads up on the post, I have purchased the Arms and balls per your suggestion, What effector and carriage parts did you use?

Dave

 

Dear, Which program do you use for controlling this monster? Cause i couldn't find any program using for this kind of 3d printer. Thanks a lot

 

Firmware: Marlin
CAD software: Solidworks or openSCAD
Slicer (gcode maker) software : Slic3r
Gcode interpreter: Pronterface

 

it really depends on which mother board you use, Duet use duet, ramps types use Marlin or Repetier ,there are more to choose from.
mine is
mother-board Rumba
Repetier firmware, Repetier Host, Simplify3D
cad 3dmax
repair netfabb
hope that helps
malc

 

I am setting up my delta six right now and I have no clue how to get the arm radius measurement. How did you guys calculate it?

 

Using trig?

 

Take a look at the Delta Simulator PRouzeau wrote in openscad. He added the Delta-Six data set that I worked up.
GitHub - PRouzeau/OpenSCAD-Delta-Simulator: Simulate cinematic of a delta robot (3D printer or CNC) - Animation
To use it download the zip file of this depository & unzip to a location of your choosing.
1st edit the file data_Delta-Six.scad and change the variables to what you are using,
the open the file Delta_simulator.scad, uncomment the line & hit F5 & it should display the info you want:

//include <data_Delta-Six.scad> //- Data set for Delta-6 by Sage

 

If anyone is interested, I have just published an effector that I am using on my Delta 6 that supports the Nimble Extruder and Precision Piezo Probe.

Delta Effector for Nimble, Precision Piezo Probe, and built in fan shroud by ElmoC

 

Hi All,
I'm thinking about building a Delta and was wondering why I don't see to many Deltas with linear bearings and ball screw drives , I would think this would make things a lot more accurate .

 

And a lot more expensive. Belts and pulley give plenty of accuracy.

 

I'm new to OB and spent the past couple of nights reading through this entire thread. I want to build a Delta-Six for a 400mm bed so I'll have to calculate my extrusions and rods...

Elmo, did you update the Nimble mount files on Thingiverse? Your comments were a little confusing. How do you like the Nimble on the Delta-Six?

 

So I don't know if anyone is still following this design, but my big delta after some 2 years of on and off use developed a problem where the tension of the belts combined with the heat from the steppers deformed the vertexes such that the stepper axles were pointed up at a bit of an angle, maybe 5-10 degrees. But it wasn't uniform between the axes and it really ruined print quality. My vertices were printed in regular PLA so that was the problem for sure. I'm disassembling and reassembling with new vertices printed w/carbon fiber PETG to combat this issue. Will update with progress, probably will finish it over the holiday weekend next week.

 

The warped PLA from the heat was pretty bad. Here's a couple of photos of the old vertices and the new ones. I left the steppers attached so the warping is visible.

I also am working on a tensioning system using jerry's vertices but tensioning at the idler vice on the carriage (kind of a cross between Sage's original and the new vertices). It slides up or down over where the motor would mount for the opposite end then is clamped with two M4 screws. A recessed spot for a M5 SHCS is in the middle for mounting the idler.

New vertices printed in Atomic Filament Carbon Fiber PETG w/.4mm layer height on a .6mm nozzle. They weigh 220g each.

 

Ok, that method of belt tensioning sucked. I came up with something better and reassembled the frame. Very happy with belt alignment and tensioning now. The frame is 1.5M tall, so the problem I had before is that there wasn't enough adjustment in most methods of tensioning to be able to easily install the belts but still tighten them. With 3M worth of belt on each loop, it's a lot tougher to tension appropriately compared something in the 500mm tall range.

My CAD skills are getting better out of necessity, at least I'm to the point where it's easier to build something than spend an hour searching for something close on thingiverse...

I've attached the design files for the smooth idler grabber thing.

 

That is an interesting and simple way to tighten the belts. What size and length hardware are you using? Thanks for posting the source files, but you could also post STL files for this? They are much easier for people to look at and use.

 

Sure! Here you go. Any random M5 works for the vertical screw, I think I have a 40mm in there. For the piece that attaches to the motor mount it's M4. The vertices are your openscad 40mm vertical remixes of Jerry's.