I'll try one vertex in ABS directly on the heated bed with some "Finesse hair spray" and if I don't swear too much I may give it a try What color would you like it?
I'm wanting Black ABS vertexes (vertices?) Have you tried the cyan-acrylate (Super Glue) trick for printing ABS? You cover the build area of your bed with blue painters tape and print the first layer. Once the first layer is down, you "trace" it with C.A. glue. This bonds the first layer to the tape/bed and prevents it from lifting. Check out some of Werner Berry’s vids on youtube. He as an amazing scratch built Delta printer. I don’t think he even powers up the heated bed when he does this. -Nugz
@dddman Uhhhh...you did that wrong. But seriously, what happened there? It looks like your vertex was attacked by a Flying Spaghetti Monster.
The vertex unglued itself from the plate and the printer pushed it off the plate... The print wasn't too bad for most of the print... but I don't know what happened between the layers. Maybe I just have a bad ABS filament (I have had it for over a year), but you'll understand why I didn't buy any other
Maybe moisture in the filament? I have read that you have to take special precautions in storing filament, especially long term, as it wicks moisture right from the air. Did you try the super-glue trick after the first layer? Or was that hair sprayed down? Heated bed on or off? Details man! Details! -Nugz
How to fail miserably should stay a secret Here were my settings: 70°C bed, two coats of hair spray directly on the bed, 230°C extruder temp. As you can see on the second picture, there was a bigger problem than sticking to the bed; the layers unlaminate from each others...
Without failure we can not learn from our mistakes. I see the de-lamination between layers. Looks like bad filament to me. Everything else looks good. I wouldn’t be so fast to judge ABS as being a P.I.T.A. to print with. I think you should try a fresh/dry roll of ABS sometime with the method I outlined above. Your settings look good and your machine is obviously capable of printing ABS. -Nugz
To answer to my own question, Robert has found that the rods shoud be about 40% of your printer height
How did Robert find that? We are starting V-slot cutting and vertices printing this weekend for our new abomination. Delta-6 like frame, ybfill3d carriage parts and effector (magnetic on both ends) and BerryBot inspirations. Te Laurtr3k is on hold untill I get the screws dealt with.
@DiggerJ I think you are on to something Digger. The rod length should be derived from the size of the build area and the distance between the vertical posts. It has little to do with the height of the vertical posts.
Yeah, somewhere I was reading that the height of the printer has little to do with the rod length. The situation is supposed to be to figure that when the hot end is at the far side of the circular heat bed, that the carriage rod needs to NOT be fully horizontal. It needs to be up by some percentage to prevent force at the far end. It is also supposed to keep the effector from clanging into one of the other uprights. I will try to find the article that explained it in details an idiot like me could understand. I tough the taller the printer, The longer the rods, but I guess not.
@DiggerJ What you said makes perfect sense to me. I'm no math wiz so I cant figure it out with Trigonometry, but I'm sure I could come close enough with a tape measure and a mock-up. Let me know if you find that article. I would like to read it also. -Nugz
Well I have the pulley side of things worked out, now it's just a waiting game on parts My OB order should be in this week along with the remaining carriages CF rods and heat plate maybe 2 weeks so just before or after x-mas My idea incorporates an essentric to remove stretch or slop
I really need to stop coming on this forum, now I need to buy parts for a 3d printer... **reaches for wallet. To any of the guys who have a close to finished build, whats the BOM look like? I'm wondering how much an operational printer is going to run. Thanks!
Yeah, that works out nicely. But if somebody made the verticals 700mm, the resulting change in rod length would probably be smacking some extrusion! Good theing you planned well.
My 2nd and 3rd vertices are printing now, with all three carriages and belt tensioners. The vertex files print very nicely. Clean and tight! Good work guys.
The info I found explained that the bed area should be doubled to get the proper height of the printer in turn making the 40/80% rule apply There is really no distinct formula to follow from my findings and even if you could reach your rails you will still have a max travel set so longer arms are not really an issue IMO if you have the travel space in your Z axis It's if you make them to short that problems will arise. As said before the main thing is not having the arms fully extended in turn causing a force/kickback
Yeah, I found a guy last night that applies the rule we have been discussing and adds 50mm to the length of the rods to avoid any problems. I just hope to get to the point that all of this enters my build...soon. When I get off of work today, ny first 3 vertices and all three carriers fro the uprights should be finished. I will start the next three certices when I get these off. Thant shoulf get me well into the build. I already have moters and wheels. Electronics are coming from BandGood and balls and magnets are on the way. Just need to order Boro, heater and Power